3K Electrical Upgrades?

I'm being told that I need these upgrades for a 3,700 watt system. Is this normal?

1. AGM
2. Bank of lithium
3. 300 amp alternator
4. Big 3 (4)

Is all that necessary for a 3K system? It seems like a lot to me.

Im interested to know as well...my dumbass is planning on possibly doing another set up... I know all the vets on the site have mentioned something about what your TRUE system is pulling in regards to Watts...

I mean, I had a Taramps 2K.4, 800.4, & 3K.1 all off a North Star 31 AGM with the Big 2”3 & stock alt and never really experienced any electrical issues that I could think of...
 
My old setup was 3300RMS total with a Northstar AGM battery under the hood, Big 3, and Singer 275A alternator.

I never once saw below 14V. With you runnning a 300A alternator a good AGM under the hood with big 3 should be plenty.

I know all the vets on the site have mentioned something about what your TRUE system is pulling in regards to Watts...
That's especially true with daily setups. If your not competing and just want to be loud then you'd be suprised at how little your actually truely pulling power wise
 
My old setup was 3300RMS total with a Northstar AGM battery under the hood, Big 3, and Singer 275A alternator.

I never once saw below 14V. With you runnning a 300A alternator a good AGM under the hood with big 3 should be plenty.

That's especially true with daily setups. If your not competing and just want to be loud then you'd be suprised at how little your actually truely pulling power wise

I know it's not a Mechman, but is this worth a shot?
Screenshot_20210111-082803_Chrome.jpg
 
For what it's worth, i had an Orion xtr2500.1dz. It was about 15' of 1/0 wire away from the new agm battery. I had an Iraggi 320a alternator. My amp often shut down from low voltage. Also had an Alpine power pack.
 
I know it's not a Mechman, but is this worth a shot? View attachment 25849
I wouldn't even bother. I've never heard of a single person successfully runnning these common ebay style alts that claim same amperage as models 2.5-3x the price.

It's always the same story (cheap re-wound alt that runs hot, produces no where near the claimed amperage, and has awful idle output)
 
My old setup was 3300RMS total with a Northstar AGM battery under the hood, Big 3, and Singer 275A alternator.

I never once saw below 14V. With you runnning a 300A alternator a good AGM under the hood with big 3 should be plenty.

That's especially true with daily setups. If your not competing and just want to be loud then you'd be suprised at how little your actually truely pulling power wise
Yeah I’ve always wondered what you guys meant about TRUE “ (x amount of watts)” systems...
although, what if I cranked it to almost max volume whenever I drove? Loved my old set up. Pretty much had it cranked going to and from work in traffic which I usually spend around 2-4 hours a day in traffic.
 
Yeah I’ve always wondered what you guys meant about TRUE “ (x amount of watts)” systems...
although, what if I cranked it to almost max volume whenever I drove? Loved my old set up. Pretty much had it cranked going to and from work in traffic which I usually spend around 2-4 hours a day in traffic.
Another thing with true watts is music varies so drastically. Unless your literally driving around playing competition test tones your not drawing as much as you think.

My electrical upgrades are going to cost more than all of my audio equipment. It just doesn't seem right to me.
That's the exact reasoning why I don't like brands like CT sound and Skar that advertise budget subs that can take 1500 watts. Budget and 1500RMS is an oxymoron, 99% of the people that buy there products probably don't even see half of the RMS

In regards to it not seeming right you do have to realize what your asking for. Your asking to run a vechicle along with nearly 300amps worth of accessories, that's a tall task that isn't cheap
 
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I'm not sure that it's worth it for 4-8's on a 3K

1. $650 alt.
2. $400 lithium
3. $400 AGM's
4. $150 big 3 (4)
Plus labor for install if I don't do it.
5. Plus labor to actually install the system.
 
Another thing with true watts is music varies so drastically. Unless your literally driving around playing competition test tones your not drawing as much as you think.

That's the exact reasoning why I don't like brands like CT sound and Skar that advertise budget subs that can take 1500 watts. Budget and 1500RMS is an oxymoron, 99% of the people that buy there products probably don't even see half of the RMS

In regards to it not seeming right you do have to realize what your asking for. Your asking to run a vechicle along with nearly 300amps worth of accessories, that's a tall task that isn't cheap

I will be running 4-VFL8D2's on a Sundown SFB3000D.
 
I'm not sure that it's worth it for 4-8's on a 3K
If it's just for a daily setup then yeah not worth it.

I would do big 3 along with a good battery under the hood and then see if it's to your liking. If it's not loud enough and/or your noticing rapid voltage drops during your music then i'd do a budget alternator with Singer (he usually has sub $400 options that are still signficant upgrades over stock but won't break the bank).
 
If it's just for a daily setup then yeah not worth it.

I would do big 3 along with a good battery under the hood and then see if it's to your liking. If it's not loud enough and/or your noticing rapid voltage drops during your music then i'd do a budget alternator with Singer (he usually has sub $400 options that are still signficant upgrades over stock but won't break the bank).

Thats actually pretty good to know. Any specific link or source you got where I could read up on that particular topic? I’m curious to know why and how thatis
 
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