Building a System! Any thoughts?

So, what makes the Orion amp draw more than other amps? Also, Orion is rating this amp at 12.6 volts, bot 14.4 like other companies. I obviously don't need the full wattage of the amp, so, the gain will be turned down. Wouldn't all of that, and a second battery, make it the amp a legitimate choice?
 
So, what makes the Orion amp draw more than other amps? Also, Orion is rating this amp at 12.6 volts, bot 14.4 like other companies. I obviously don't need the full wattage of the amp, so, the gain will be turned down. Wouldn't all of that, and a second battery, make it the amp a legitimate choice?
It's super inefficient. It'll make crazy power if you have mucho electrical, which you don't have. Rated at 12 vs 14 means nothing in your case
 
It's super inefficient. It'll make crazy power if you have mucho electrical, which you don't have. Rated at 12 vs 14 means nothing in your case

I should be fine to push between 12 and 13 volts all day long. You seem to think I have a 6 volt car still. Between the alternator and two batteries I should have at least 12 to 13 volts on hand.
 
Voltage isn't the problem. Amperage is.

An extra battery and capacitor won't help with that? I'm just getting back into a decent system. My first system was in 1989. Rockford, Nakamichi, and Sony gear. We didn't worry about amps and volts back then. Just a different time, shit still hit hard, but different. Sorry if I seem lost. Trying to understand this shit! Trying to learn.
 
An extra battery and capacitor won't help with that? I'm just getting back into a decent system. My first system was in 1989. Rockford, Nakamichi, and Sony gear. We didn't worry about amps and volts back then. Just a different time, shit still hit hard, but different. Sorry if I seem lost. Trying to understand this shit! Trying to learn.

What is the alternator amperage output?
 
Check out the dyno on it. At 2500 watts rms/12.6v, which that HD sub will really like to see a lot of that wattage, the amperage was nearly 400amps. Now to be clear a 40/60hz wave is going to pull more amperage than music but you’ll still need to have super solid electrical for let’s call it 250 amps of current pull. If your converted 12volt electrical is super solid you could run a Brazilian that draws less current.
 
Check out the dyno on it. At 2500 watts rms/12.6v, which that HD sub will really like to see a lot of that wattage, the amperage was nearly 400amps. Now to be clear a 40/60hz wave is going to pull more amperage than music but you’ll still need to have super solid electrical for let’s call it 250 amps of current pull. If your converted 12volt electrical is super solid you could run a Brazilian that draws less current.
What about a VFLcomp
Check out the dyno on it. At 2500 watts rms/12.6v, which that HD sub will really like to see a lot of that wattage, the amperage was nearly 400amps. Now to be clear a 40/60hz wave is going to pull more amperage than music but you’ll still need to have super solid electrical for let’s call it 250 amps of current pull. If your converted 12volt electrical is super solid you could run a Brazilian that draws less current.

What about a VFLcomp2k? 2000 watts rms at 1 ohm? Would this be a better choice?
 
Well they’re $260 and they only got to 1900 and change on the dyno uncertified. For the money and the sub you’ve selected a taramps md3000 is a good value. Reason I say this is the Brazilian amps are more efficient on electrical but my suggestion assumes your 12v scenario is strong. Big 3 wiring and a good size agm in the rear is highly recommended. Matter of fact an md1800.1 would probably be good too but I’m not real sure on how much power the hd’s Like. The xfl’s are rated at 1000 but need a bit more to really boogie. The hd asks for 1500 so closer to 2k after break in may be a better recipe.
 
Well they’re $260 and they only got to 1900 and change on the dyno uncertified. For the money and the sub you’ve selected a taramps md3000 is a good value. Reason I say this is the Brazilian amps are more efficient on electrical but my suggestion assumes your 12v scenario is strong. Big 3 wiring and a good size agm in the rear is highly recommended. Matter of fact an md1800.1 would probably be good too but I’m not real sure on how much power the hd’s Like. The xfl’s are rated at 1000 but need a bit more to really boogie. The hd asks for 1500 so closer to 2k after break in may be a better recipe.

Yup I'm running taramps 5k on 100amp alternator, big 3 and big *** rear battery.

Very efficient.
 
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