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My amp and sub setup in my trunk works well except that the amp overheats regularly. It's a 4-channel amp, so I have two options for wiring the sub: bridged and unbridged. When it's unbridged, it's weak but it doesn't overheat as much. When it's bridged it sounds awesome but overheats after a few minutes, depending on the temperature outside. At first I thought that the ground wasn't good enough, so I moved it to the one of the bolts on the rear strut tower and sanded down every surface until shiny metal. I also cut the ground wire down to 18" or less. It still overheats. Maybe I need a higher gauge wire? I went to this audio shop and this guy told me to try switching the sub from channels 1 and 2 bridged to channels 3 and 4 bridged. So I did. Not sure what it did. I also might need to tune the setup more accurately, but I don't know that that has much to do with overheating issues.
My car (95 Civic if you're wondering) came wired by the previous owner for a subwoofer. 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the trunk, 4 gauge ground, and a remote wire and RCA cables from the radio to the trunk. Power and ground are both OFC. Back in April, I got a used amp and a sub and put it in my trunk. I don't know much about audio/electrical, but I'll list what I know about my setup below:
The amp I got is a PlanetAudio 4-channel amp (I know it's meant for speakers, but it at least works for the sub and I got it for $50). Here it is.
The sub is a Pioneer. Don't know the model number, but the reading on the multimeter at the terminals tells me it's a 4-ohm sub. It's a single voice-coil subwoofer.
What I don't understand is what bridging does to the impedance of the circuit. From my understanding, you want to match the impedance as close as you possibly can. So, if my amp is 4 ohms, I want a 4 ohm speaker to match it. Does bridging channels 1 and 2 put the impedance at 2 ohms and make it unstable? Or does running the sub on 1 channel put it at 8 ohms and make it more stable? I don't quite understand.
Another quick few things. I have no money, but I still appreciate advice like "get a new amp" or "get a fan to blow air on it" even though I won't be able to follow through with it until I pay for college. Advice concerning the wiring will be much more valuable to me.
Thanks for the help, guys.
1989 honda crx
connecting kenwood kdc-mp245
have to hardwire into car, no harness
have the speaker and ground connections figured out.
I need to know which connection goes where: connect the (Battery/YELLOW) wire and (Ignition/RED) wire INTO either the (RED/YELLOW Main stereo supply/radio switched 12v+) or the (WHITE/GREEN Constant power 12v+).
Hey! I'm almost 16 and I'm saving up for a sound system for my first car. I think I want to get two Alpine Type R SWR-1243d (Alpine SWR-1243D 12" Type-R Car Subwoofer/Sub (SWR1243D)) subs but I have no idea what amp (or amps) to power them with. I'm also getting two sets of Type R speakers (Alpine SPR-13S 5-1/4" Type-R Component Speakers) that I think I'm going to power with an Alpine PDX-4.100 (Alpine PDX-4.100 (pdx4100) - 4 Channel Amplifier | Four Channel Amp - Sonic Electronix), but I don't know how to wire multiple amps to one battery. Any help or advice on what amps to use or the best ways to wire amps and subs is much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
By KNIV3S OUT
So I just finished installing my system in my new car and it isn't even a fraction of how loud it was in my old, which makes no sense to me because I upgraded from 8ga to 0ga power wire and from 14ga to 12ga speaker wire. The only things I've done differently in this car are grounded my amp to the battery instead of chassis (can't find anywhere to ground on chassis without having to buff off paint) and wired speaker to amp differently. I'm thinking this is where I'm losing all my sound.
I'm kind of new to all of this so I don't really know how to explain how I've got it wired compared to before, so I made some horrible ms paint representations lol.
Shaded circles are where I had/have the wires hooked up.
The reason I did it this way is because somehow the threading in both outer ports is stripped and the nut thingy wont tighten down onto the wire. If it's likely this is my problem does anyone have any idea how I can get them to tighten down?
Oh, the amp's a Hifonics Brutus 1200w BXI 1210D Super D-Class, thought I doubt that matters.
I am so far from being any type of car audio expert so please pardon my ignorance. I am working on a special project of my own. I am mounting a marine radio for a specific application on an airboat. Due to the ambient noise each rider will wear a corded headphone set.
I am looking for specific names of parts - The construction is not a permanent installation and will not even include radio functionality. The stereo will be used to play a looped CD or MP3 player for an airboat tour boat.
The power supply will 12 volt from the vehicles accesory port, and the stereo/cd player will be mounted in a padded and vibration resistant box (Already Built)
I need an adapter of some sort to go from the speaker wires to 3 Headphone jacks (I need them to be the larger size jacks)
Is there a filter that can be bought and wired into the power supply to lessen ignition static ect from the exposed motor and simple wiring involved with this vehicle?
Thanks in advance, could you please name sites were I could buy such device's/parts, as well as if there is specific trade lingo for the part names.
Calculating Aero Port Length Started