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cfox10
fatboytyler
CarAudio.com Elite
Looks like you have either a 145 or 160A stock alternator. What is your upfront battery?
tc300 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
Definitely Replace that CCA wire with OFC or welding cable and do the big three...
And add a good size agm in the rear.
And add a good size agm in the rear.
SounDrive Pro Seller
www.soundrive.audio
No need to replace the wire for a 1200w amp.
Also he does have a 145-160a alternator, but those vehicles have a large electrical draw due to the electric fans and what not.
My recommendations:
Throw an AGM (preferably virgin lead) under the hood and think about a small HO alt. I wouldn't usually recommend one for 1200w, but .5 is a different story. That's more like having 2500-3kW wired to 1 ohm.
You will not get a decent AGM battery for $100 new. A used battery kind of defeats the whole purpose of getting an upgraded battery.
Also he does have a 145-160a alternator, but those vehicles have a large electrical draw due to the electric fans and what not.
My recommendations:
Throw an AGM (preferably virgin lead) under the hood and think about a small HO alt. I wouldn't usually recommend one for 1200w, but .5 is a different story. That's more like having 2500-3kW wired to 1 ohm.
You will not get a decent AGM battery for $100 new. A used battery kind of defeats the whole purpose of getting an upgraded battery.
tc300 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
More than likely you probably could get by with that CCA wire for now.. But if you upgrade your alternator might as well put some nice copper wiring in!!! 
Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Do the big 3, monitor voltages and upgrade as necessary. No sense in upgrading if you are still above 13.5 volts full tilt at .5 ohms.
NASTY08IMPALA 5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Ive run 5k with all cca wiring for years ur fine there..as long and its used within its means and installed properly ur fine..as suggested id test voltage drops after big 3 then add a good agm if needed .i dont see you needed a ho alt
I can get you a new agm battery for 90 shipped. Assuming your car takes a group 78 up front
Massive spl
Banned
Shlt big 3 and that's it. Get a volt meter to watch voltage at amp but u should be fine. Wiring at .5ohm and after rising u will see like 1000watts daily. U be fine. If needed ad agm Duracell or deka under hood
72Impala 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Just do big 3 in COPPER WIRE, and put a AGM from Sams or your auto parts store. Everyone should have an AGM replace their lead acid anyways. For 800-1000w you only need a better battery up front
hispls 5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Implying that somehow adding more batteries makes your amp safe to drive .5 ohm.
OP
cfox10 10+ year member
Rock the house.
- Thread Starter
- #12
Yeah, 1k is what I'm hoping to see. It's for a buddies vehicle we just did an install for. He was having bad voltage drop at 2ohm so we had the battery load tested and it would drop down to 10's, if we left the door open on his truck for more than 2-3 minutes he couldn't start the truck.
Ended up replacing the battery on the truck yesterday for a Carquest branded AGM.. dips down to just 14v now at full tilt 2ohm.
Wired down to .5 and dipping to about 12.3, but the lights are dimming more than when he dipping down into 11's @ 2 the first time with the bad battery?
Doing the big 3 today and hoping that will keep voltage stable. It seems like the draw from his electric fans are abnormally high, they alone dim the hell out of the lights even with the new battery.
He works at carquest and they've got short runs of 4/0 welding cable that he can get for the big 3 for pretty cheap.
the two trays for 99-06 afaik are one in front of the driver side electrical box, and two on the passenger side by the firewall behind the coolant.My older 1500 has an aux battery tray but his truck doesn't have one? I thought it should as well but the air box is right where the aux battery tray would go. His looks like this one under the hood:
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