Ground got pulled out, now can't go over 18 volume (amp cuts out)

Tadmonty

Junior Member
I have 2 12" K kicker compVRs running off a Kenwood KAC-9105D 1800w amp, along with a Scosche 500k micro Farad capacitor. My system was able, on current setting, to go easily to 22 volume(normally ran at 18-19 volume when pushing the system) and now it not able to keep up at 17. The ground was pulled out when I spun out on ice and now the amp continues to cut out at 17-18 volume on the deep hits. The capacitor reads 12.0-12.4 on at idle and drops to 11.4 or so when system is being run and the subs hit deep. No settings change on amp or head unit since the ground was pulled out.

And a side issue, when car is in park/idle, system gives off a horrible feedback that causes almost instant headaches for most people who drive with me. But as soon as I touch the gas it'll be gone. No idea on this, help me if you can! Thanks.

Any idea to why its not able to keep up now? Still pretty new to car audio so im pretty much lost here.

 
I have 2 12" K kicker compVRs running off a Kenwood KAC-9105D 1800w amp, along with a Scosche 500k micro Farad capacitor. My system was able, on current setting, to go easily to 22 volume(normally ran at 18-19 volume when pushing the system) and now it not able to keep up at 17. The ground was pulled out when I spun out on ice and now the amp continues to cut out at 17-18 volume on the deep hits. The capacitor reads 12.0-12.4 on at idle and drops to 11.4 or so when system is being run and the subs hit deep. No settings change on amp or head unit since the ground was pulled out.
Any idea to why its not able to keep up now? Still pretty new to car audio so im pretty much lost here.

First things first, you should lose the CAP. They really dont do you any good, tho it may seem they do they really hurt you more then they help. In your case it sounds like it(the cap) is hurting you. You should take a DMM and check voltage under your hood and then check voltage at the amp because 11.4v is to low. Even 12.0v is not really good voltage. It sounds to me that your CAP could be shorting. Again id lose the CAP and just put a 2nd battery in its place if you really need hel p in electrical. Also idk if you have the big 3 done yet but should also look into getting that done as well, you may not need anything extra after you do the big 3.

But curious how big is your alt? and whats your idle voltage without playing any music?

 
First things first, you should lose the CAP. They really dont do you any good, tho it may seem they do they really hurt you more then they help. In your case it sounds like it(the cap) is hurting you. You should take a DMM and check voltage under your hood and then check voltage at the amp because 11.4v is to low. Even 12.0v is not really good voltage. It sounds to me that your CAP could be shorting. Again id lose the CAP and just put a 2nd battery in its place if you really need hel p in electrical. Also idk if you have the big 3 done yet but should also look into getting that done as well, you may not need anything extra after you do the big 3.
But curious how big is your alt? and whats your idle voltage without playing any music?
Well without the cap, it would wouldnt get very far before shutting off and/or overly dimming my headlights at night. Ill have to find someone who can check my voltage for me, I dont have the tool to do it myself. Im not sure what big 3 is but i take it might be a wiring setup? And would a 2nd battery in the back really be all that helpful and I just dont get why its being lame now bc prior to my spin out it was perfect for me. Whats an alt? My cap reads about 12.3 idle but if you mean a DMM reading, I have no idea. Sorry, like i said im still very new to the scene and dont know much of anything other than some basics.

 
I did recrimp the ground and reconnected it to the cap. The amp is on the back of my box, it was pulled out bc my box slides around if I over do a turn and the ground is just shy of the full length of my trunk.

 
Well without the cap, it would wouldnt get very far before shutting off and/or overly dimming my headlights at night. Ill have to find someone who can check my voltage for me, I dont have the tool to do it myself. Im not sure what big 3 is but i take it might be a wiring setup? And would a 2nd battery in the back really be all that helpful and I just dont get why its being lame now bc prior to my spin out it was perfect for me. Whats an alt? My cap reads about 12.3 idle but if you mean a DMM reading, I have no idea. Sorry, like i said im still very new to the scene and dont know much of anything other than some basics.
it sounds like you are having serious voltage issues. Google the big 3 and get it done. Run 0 gauge. Sell the cap to some idiot that thinks it will help his system. Find the best possible ground in your trunk you can. Did you go to a shop or a person in a backyard?

 
it sounds like you are having serious voltage issues. Google the big 3 and get it done. Run 0 gauge. Sell the cap to some idiot that thinks it will help his system. Find the best possible ground in your trunk you can. Did you go to a shop or a person in a backyard?
Now before I had the cap with this setup, my lights would dim severely while driving at night with the system up, will the big 3 on 0g help stop this issue if I do upgrade to it? Ground should be about as good as it can get, and you mean for the install of it or the purchase? Purchase from the local audio shop(this is the one where nearly everyone in my tri-county area goes) and install was me.

 
Now before I had the cap with this setup, my lights would dim severely while driving at night with the system up, will the big 3 on 0g help stop this issue if I do upgrade to it? Ground should be about as good as it can get, and you mean for the install of it or the purchase? Purchase from the local audio shop(this is the one where nearly everyone in my tri-county area goes) and install was me.
A cap is just a buffer to help on voltage hits not a solution. Do the big 3...and possibly get a bigger battery under the hood. Also, how thick is the power and ground wire you're using? Speaking of that ground...you said it was shy of the full length of your trunk...It should probably be shorter...also is your ground point bare exposed frame metal?

 
Well without the cap, it would wouldnt get very far before shutting off and/or overly dimming my headlights at night. Ill have to find someone who can check my voltage for me, I dont have the tool to do it myself. Im not sure what big 3 is but i take it might be a wiring setup? And would a 2nd battery in the back really be all that helpful and I just dont get why its being lame now bc prior to my spin out it was perfect for me. Whats an alt? My cap reads about 12.3 idle but if you mean a DMM reading, I have no idea. Sorry, like i said im still very new to the scene and dont know much of anything other than some basics.
Yes the 2nd battery would be way more help then a cap due to how a cap works. The cap can act as a load on you alt as well as the amp it self. The caps actually discharge completely and require to be be recharged. When playing a music daily, your alt is forced to feed the cap as well as the amp at the same time so its more strain on your electrical system. VS a battery can help you voltage remain more stable as it takes less effort to charge a battery because it doesnt have to completely disscharge it self. so in other words when a cap fully disscharges your alt has to "Fully recharge" it and a battery maintains it charge and its less stress. You may not dim with the cap but it can cause other problems like make your ALT over work it self trying to keep up with the amp & cap, and the battery will keep its charge because its not going to go completely dead with the car vehicle running.

The big 3 is a electrical wiring up grade. Its really just upgrading your alternators main charging wire to a bigger gauge than the stock probably 8-10 gauge that it comes with, and the upgrading the factory ground to cars body and another to the engine it self. it helps to complete the circut in your electrical system and it will be able to deliver more current.

Big 3:

1. Upgrade Alt charging wire that runs to the battery under hood to a bigger gauge wire

2. Upgrade the stock ground from the negitive battery post to body with a bigger gauge wire

3. Add a 2nd ground from the negitive battery post to the engine block(

 
Yes doing the Big 3 will help your electrical a lot. I would do that, and redo your ground. You say it's in the best possible place, is the paint sanded off and it bolted directly to your frame? If not, you might think about doing that.

What kind of car is this in? I wouldn't think that amp should draw enough current to really need any significant electrical upgrades, unless you have a pitifully small alternator. Either way, get rid of the cap. Oh, and spend $10 and get a cheap DMM (Digital MultiMeter) while you're at it. It will help to troubleshoot.

 
A cap is just a buffer to help on voltage hits not a solution. Do the big 3...and possibly get a bigger battery under the hood. Also, how thick is the power and ground wire you're using? Speaking of that ground...you said it was shy of the full length of your trunk...It should probably be shorter...also is your ground point bare exposed frame metal?
yes upgrading your battery under hood could fix it as well

 
A cap is just a buffer to help on voltage hits not a solution. Do the big 3...and possibly get a bigger battery under the hood. Also, how thick is the power and ground wire you're using? Speaking of that ground...you said it was shy of the full length of your trunk...It should probably be shorter...also is your ground point bare exposed frame metal?
Is there anything I could do other than buy a big 3 kit or bigger battery to get it back to not turning off until I can afford the upgrade(s)? And Im honestly not 100% sure on the thickness of the wires im currently using. Yes, the ground is on bare frame metal.

 
Like others have said, take the **** cap out. I don't know why you ask the question if you don't want to pay any attention to the answer. Read bgowdy31's post if you want a run down as to why.

 
Yes doing the Big 3 will help your electrical a lot. I would do that, and redo your ground. You say it's in the best possible place, is the paint sanded off and it bolted directly to your frame? If not, you might think about doing that.
What kind of car is this in? I wouldn't think that amp should draw enough current to really need any significant electrical upgrades, unless you have a pitifully small alternator. Either way, get rid of the cap. Oh, and spend $10 and get a cheap DMM (Digital MultiMeter) while you're at it. It will help to troubleshoot.
Yes, ground is on bare frame metal, no paint or junk in the way. I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT.

 
Like others have said, take the **** cap out. I don't know why you ask the question if you don't want to pay any attention to the answer.
I am paying attention to the answers given, I would just rather not have my lights dim while driving again. Trying to find a complete answer and process before actually ridding of it.

 
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