- Thread Starter
- #16
All right! I learned some stuff that i didn't know about! I think I'll be ok for now! I'll choose what i need and after it's the installation!#1 DUAL VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER (2 Ohms + 2 Ohms)
In the specs of the MRP-M650 amplifier it says i would get 600W RMS at 2 Ohms (Continuous). I would really like to get 2 Ohms at the amplifier to get 600W instead of 400W at 4 Ohms. In the owner's manual for the subwoofers there's a sketch to wire it at 2 Ohms (explanation below). Because of the "bug" on the forum i can't send you a sketch so i will explain it the way it's mentionned in the user's manual and tell me if it's ok.
WIRING EXPLANATION :
***---Each subwoofer has 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals---.
*** Each subwoofer has a jumper cable (+ to -) inside the box.
From subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (-) and wire it to the 2nd (-) of subwoofer "B" and from there i wire directly to the (-) terminal on the amp. Then, same thing for the other connection, from subwoofer "A" i take a wire from the 2nd (+) and wire it to the 2nd (+) of subwoofer B and from there i wire directly to the (+) terminal on the amp.
???What are the pros and cons if wired at 2 Ohms compared at 4 Ohms?
You can only wire it in series (4 ohms) or parallel (1 ohm) From the Crutchfield site:
Wire Jumpers: The woofer is equipped with two 3" speaker wire jumpers with banana plugs on both ends. These jumpers allow you to wire the voice coils in parallel (for a 1-ohm load) or series (for a 4-ohm load).
Your MRP-M650 puts out 400 at 4 ohms and, 600 at 2, not stable at 1 ohm.
The amplifier is not 1 ohm stable so wiring as you have it pictured, in series for a 4 ohm load is your only option. You’ll not notice much if any difference between 400 and 600 watts. It takes the ear roughly 10db to realize a doubling of volume.The way wattage gains in volume are realized is as follows:
400 to 800 watts 3 db
800 to 1600 watts (another 3 db) for a 6 db increase over 400'
1600 to 3200 watts (another 3 db) for a 9 db increase over 400 watts.
It would take 3200 watts in order for the ear to perceive a doubling of the volume. That means that you would see a roughly 16.5% difference in volume between 400 and 600 watt - insignificant in a subwoofer.
QUESTION #3
You wrote:
"I would not bother with a volt meter knob, get the 5 pin (Rj11 type) remote knob that came with the amp for best results".
***My amplifiers do not have a 5 pin (Rj11 type) or no other types of plug-insfor a bass knob so ill need a universal bass knob. That's why i was going tuse the PAC LC-1 bass knob that works with RCA'S input and output only. These are old amplifiers but they perform very well.
My bad, the picture wasn’t clear and looked like the hi Level input was an RJ 11 input. One of these would suffice. It runs inline with the RCAs going to the MRP-M650(and it’s optional) $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0795C68CV/?tag=caraudiocom-20
QUESTION #4
You wrote:
"Remote wire from the kicker LOC (daisy chained from one amp to the other) will turn the unit off and on".
***If i understand correctly, i take a remote wire from amplifier A to amplifier B and then a remote wire from amplifier B to the LOC remote wire.
***So, no need to take a remote wire from the LOC to the radio harness and "TAP" on the "remote antenna wire" or "ignition wire" so the amplifiers goes off when i turn off the car?
That is correct. Or you can split the lead from the remote power lead on the LOC and run one wire to each, either way – same, same.
QUESTION #10
You wrote:
"6.5/6.75 is roughly the same overall basket size. One has a little larger cone but the frames are either or as fitment is concerned. Here are some decent budget comps I would recommend you consider (includes replacement tweeters) they are rated for the MRP F-200’s 100 x 2, bridged".
You gave me a good deal of choice, Thanks. You recommended kits with speakers and tweeters included.
***Just for my curiosity, suppose if someone would only replace the lower front speakers and would keep the factory tweeters that are located on the upper door... would the speakers and tweeters work anyway?
This is where it gets a little tricky. All the links to drivers that I provided include crossovers that are hooked to that chanel from the amp. From the crossovers, you run wire from the respective outputs on the crossover.
Your factory speakers may or may not have the crossovers inline and if not, they are likely crossed over at the factory amp, which you’ll not be using. This means you will have to wire in crossovers for both sides and that is another $20 for what? Get the comps and do a slightly modified install. If they do have inline crossovers, no way to tell if they are set at the optimal frequency, highly likely they are not.
All the component sets I gave you links to have tweeters that physically fit into your vehicle's existing tweeter locations. You'll need to use back straps, hot glue, or silicone (preferable) to secure them. Waste of time and money to use the factory tweeters.
I really appreciate, you helped me alot! Thank you veryyy much for your time!
