I'm no kid, son. Check out my now 3rd to last post.
As for the car above, I'd be afraid of getting testicular cancer from that much power under my nuts!
Sometimes the Big 3 can make dimming worse as it allows more power to be drawn away from other electronics (path of least resistance), but generaly it can buy you a few watts through greater efficiency. It just depends.
The boat example is interesting, I wonder what happens when there is an electrical short, I would guess you smoke the battery or alternator, or melt the wires since it has no frame to ground to?
man I just keep having to correct you.
Operating under the assumption that your lights are the same wattage and all other electronics are doing the same thing as before you will not experience more dimming from a
properly installed big 3. Now many will remove stock wiring or use poor connections or be lazy compared to the stock wiring.
Why is that? Because items like lights, radios, amps, and everything else PULL current, they do not have power pushed into them. They pull current from the source, now the highway to get to that source may change when you upgrade the big 3, but your lights will not be brighter than the 80w they were before, nor will the radio use more juice. Now you may make more power out of your amp, but if your amp was already struggling for juice your lights were already dimming. If you do adjust your amps settings to make it run harder and pull more juice and attempt to make more power you may make dimming worse.
That bolded part irks me more than anything you will ever know, because that means you didn't learn a **** thing that I tried to explain to you.
The same thing will happen in the boat as would happen in a car, the fuse will pop or the wire will catch fire, and your battery will drain severly and possibly explode.
Sure in a car if your power wire "grounds out" to the frame it will weld itself to it, but thats the only difference in the boat example. and even then the same thing will happen, fire or blown fuses
it has 46 runs
