Which set-up would be better?

[quote name='Jeffdachef']Hit up @CSCStang to get a T-line enclosure design if you want loud and sound quality with very little power.

This is a pair of hds 200 8s he built on less than 400 watts of power total. Thats less than 200 watts per sub.

https://vid.me/DIQz[/QUOTE]

That port is Massive! Lol. So does he just make a design and send it for free? Or does he charge a certain price?
Also, what is the difference between the T line and a regular ported box, as in what are the benefits over a properfly ported box?
 
That port is Massive! Lol. So does he just make a design and send it for free? Or does he charge a certain price?Also, what is the difference between the T line and a regular ported box, as in what are the benefits over a properfly ported box?
lets say a T-line can draw 100% out of the sub in both sound quality and loudness. It just takes a lot of room. Benefits would be a lot better range of notes being played along with increased efficiency. you dont need to overpower the sub by a lot as you normally would do with a ported or sealed to get the output desired.

 
lets say a T-line can draw 100% out of the sub in both sound quality and loudness. It just takes a lot of room. Benefits would be a lot better range of notes being played along with increased efficiency. you dont need to overpower the sub by a lot as you normally would do with a ported or sealed to get the output desired.
Okay, that sounds like a deal! So does he send the design to me for free after I give him the limitations such as how tall the box can be and how wide, etc?

I started to make a ported enclosure on the online calculator, here is a pic of my measurements, etc.

tyJacJN.jpg


Box Calculations:

Width: 28 inches Height: 13.75 inches Depth: 14.5 Thickness: 0.75 = Internal Volume: 2.4422 Cu.Ft.

Port Calculations:

Width: 2 inches Height: 12.5 inches Box Volume: 2.4422 Cu.Ft. Tuning Frequency: 32 Hz = Port Length: 22.8136931

Box internal Volume with Port included (including the thickness of the inner wall of the port)

2.4422- [(2.75 x 12.5 x 22.8136931) / 1728]= 1.98836585762 which is about the recommended 2.0 CU. Ft. of the HDS212, yes?

 
Okay, that sounds like a deal! So does he send the design to me for free after I give him the limitations such as how tall the box can be and how wide, etc?
I started to make a ported enclosure on the online calculator, here is a pic of my measurements, etc.

Box Calculations:

Width: 28 inches Height: 13.75 inches Depth: 14.5 Thickness: 0.75 = Internal Volume: 2.4422 Cu.Ft.

Port Calculations:

Width: 2 inches Height: 12.5 inches Box Volume: 2.4422 Cu.Ft. Tuning Frequency: 32 Hz = Port Length: 22.8136931

Box internal Volume with Port included (including the thickness of the inner wall of the port)

2.4422- [(2.75 x 12.5 x 22.8136931) / 1728]= 1.98836585762 which is about the recommended 2.0 CU. Ft. of the HDS212, yes?
small fee i think, since its the whole wood cutout sheet along with the design.

Those online calculators are horrible. They assume you know what displacement is which obviously you dont. You dont just simply enter in what the GROSS cubic feet(2.44) is, you actually have to know exactly how much space the sub and port takes up and subtract it from your gross 2.44 cubic feet number which will give you a NET cubic feet. However entering that number in will in turn change the port length and will change the displacement all over again resulting in a never ending loop.

Do yourself a favor and never use that again.

Here's a proper box calculator with download links and tutorials.

Torres' Box Tuning Calculator - Updated 8/18 - Subwoofers / Enclosures - SMD Forum

PS: by the looks of it, you barely have enough room for a 10" sub if you are going to do slot port. space makes bass man. With that space it wont be any different than a prefab box.

 
small fee i think, since its the whole wood cutout sheet along with the design.
Those online calculators are horrible. They assume you know what displacement is which obviously you dont. You dont just simply enter in what the GROSS cubic feet(2.44) is, you actually have to know exactly how much space the sub and port takes up and subtract it from your gross 2.44 cubic feet number which will give you a NET cubic feet. However entering that number in will in turn change the port length and will change the displacement all over again resulting in a never ending loop.

Do yourself a favor and never use that again.

Here's a proper box calculator with download links and tutorials.

Torres' Box Tuning Calculator - Updated 8/18 - Subwoofers / Enclosures - SMD Forum

PS: by the looks of it, you barely have enough room for a 10" sub if you are going to do slot port. space makes bass man. With that space it wont be any different than a prefab box.
Alright, well, what I was trying to do was make the box as small as possible. Completely forgot about the Net and Gross differences, it is not that I do not know what displacement is, it is purely the inexperience of designing a sub box.

The widest I can go is 30 inches, Highest is probably 15 inches, and the deepest I think I can go is around 19 or 20 inches.

 
Lol I like how the op said he's got a nasty pre fab box, 1.6cubes tuned to 39hz it said the specs were lol. So nasty!
Thanks for the smart remark, but you and I are using two different definitions of nasty. You are using more of a street term/ slang, while I am using the typical definition, as in gross, nasty, bad, etc.

 
Alright, well, what I was trying to do was make the box as small as possible. Completely forgot about the Net and Gross differences, it is not that I do not know what displacement is, it is purely the inexperience of designing a sub box.
The widest I can go is 30 inches, Highest is probably 15 inches, and the deepest I think I can go is around 19 or 20 inches.
FTivv.jpg


 
8wB9yDS.png


Top View, so I am using the "vertical" measurements as depth, and the "horizontal" measurements as width, all pieces, besides the bottom (purple) are 13 inches tall (if looking from the front of the box)

Outer Depth: 19 inches

Outer width: 28 inches

Left Side (Red/Port side): 18.25 Inches Deep x 0.75 Inches wide

Back (Top Green Piece): 0.75 inches Deep x 28 inches wide

Right side (Cyan/non-port side): 17.5 inches deep x 0.75 inches wide

Front (Bottom Green piece): 0.75 inches Deep x 24.5 inches wide

Port 1 (Purple piece): 14.75 inches deep x 0.75 inches wide

Made the first port wall 14.75 inches to attach to the back of the front face, making a length of 15.50 inches, leaving 2.75 inches of space measuring from the end of it to the inside of the back wall.

Port 2 (White Piece): 0.75 inches deep x 7.75 inches wide

Made this port wall to account for: Port Physical length (26.75 inches) - the thickness of the the front face (0.75 inches) - thickness of purple wall (0.75 inches) - distance to center line x 2 (1.375 inches) - Purple wall length/depth (14.75 inches) = 7.75 inches

Drawn Black line total length (Let us pretend it is centered perfectly between the port all the way through with 1.375 inches on either side): 26.75 inches in length

I just realized, I could make it a double baffle, but make Port Wall #2 7 -inches to account for the thickness (0.75 inches) of the 28 x 14.5 mdf board since it lengthens the outer part of the port, with a circular cut out (12.5 inches in diameter) to make the sub face flush, correct? Or is the Misc section another piece behind the green front I have to make the front thicker?

 
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I was also thinking, since I do use my trunk still, would a down firing box design be better to prevent damage with the port still facing towards my trunk, or does it need to be taller then 15 inches, or is this not a good idea at all with a sub such as the HDS212? or is there and efficient grill that will help protect the HDS212?

Here is a sub box plan that I found, not a downfiring, but the guy says the accounted for the 45s, sub displacement, and the port displacement.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XYfsd77FUpE

 
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