Which 3-way Crossover?

[OneKrazyKeebler 10+ year member]

hey, i really appreciate you letting me know whats up. I think I might just try and find a prebuilt 3 way. Glad I didn't blow 250 on something I would have regretted.

 

[MrSwiss 10+ year member]

when i was building my frontstage i ultimately went with an inline crossover at around 4500hz.

like squeek says tho, its best to build custom xovers. My tweets are only 35wrms at 8ohms, so they are a tad lad and i have to EQ really low to get over that resonance frequency.

It does take quite a bit of planning, but i think it turned out great in my car. good luck with it.

 

[OneKrazyKeebler 10+ year member]

thanks man, i got a 3 way setup in my room. actually some floor standing cabinet and I love how they actually sound good throught the ranges. I really wanted something like that in my vehicle.

 

[OneKrazyKeebler 10+ year member]

ok, this might just be adding insult to injury, but exactly how off would that setup be if I replaced the midrange with this:

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=8421216.29080&pid=2040

I checked the crossover points and it would fall into place.

 

[///M5 10+ year member]

It doesn't work that way. For a crossover to be worth a chit, IMO it needs to take into account any impedance hump in the drivers and knock them out. It also needs to be specifically designed for an EXACT impedance and not some nominal number. Frequently the nominal and actual can be off by way more than 10% which will really screw up your crossover points. To build a real passive it takes way more money in measurement gear than it would be to buy a couple extra channels of amplification and run active.

For you I wouldn't recommend a 3 way active or custom passive as a first attempt into the world of DIY component sets. There are too many tuning options with that many drivers. I'd just stick with a 2way and do it active as without a thorough understanding of electronics the passives are tough to make sound good. I wouldn't get a budget 3way passive premade set either, they skmp way too much on the crossover side of things.

 

[OneKrazyKeebler 10+ year member]

It doesn't work that way. For a crossover to be worth a chit, IMO it needs to take into account any impedance hump in the drivers and knock them out. It also needs to be specifically designed for an EXACT impedance and not some nominal number. Frequently the nominal and actual can be off by way more than 10% which will really screw up your crossover points. To build a real passive it takes way more money in measurement gear than it would be to buy a couple extra channels of amplification and run active.
For you I wouldn't recommend a 3 way active or custom passive as a first attempt into the world of DIY component sets. There are too many tuning options with that many drivers. I'd just stick with a 2way and do it active as without a thorough understanding of electronics the passives are tough to make sound good. I wouldn't get a budget 3way passive premade set either, they skmp way too much on the crossover side of things.

thanks for bein honest. I think i might just do a 2 way active comp set. Might take some time to fully understand the active/crossover points/etc. but that is not gonna stop me from learning all i can in the process.