Whats Fair?

You are confusing legal responsibility with common sense given a certain level of expertise.
Yes, I would have checked the coils with a DMM, but I wouldn't expect the average person to have the knowledge to know that. Yes, this implies I am calling OP a moron.
doesnt take a dmm, only a battery

 
Again, checking polarity is a reasonable thing to check.
Walk into your local best buy and ask several customers. "Suppose you purchased a sub used. What methods would you use to determine it's functionality?" Resonableness is what the average person would do, not the average person with above average knowledge of car audio electronics.

 
**** even i know that isnt the buyers responsiblity to make sure item is 100% beyond looking it over. and somthing like the polarities being switched... really? almost every i know that buys car audio doesnt go past testing the coils imp with a dmm, then they install..

 
doesnt take a dmm, only a battery
obviously OP doesn't have that knowledge. i assume the only means of "testing" he has is to wire it up.

^^exactly. i'd check the coils to make sure the impedance was right, but i seriously doubt i'd check to be sure the terminals are labeled right. i mean whoever did the recone should have done that. thats part of reconing the sub.

 
I was also wondering if the sdc in the op's sig is the sub in question. Dont they use straight wire from the coils, with no terminals on the aq subs?

also, a ten second search turned this up:



Edit: its an hdc3 in the op's sig not an sdc, so that does have the straight leads correct?

 
a "normal" person wuldnt know this
A "normal" person may not, but someone with:

•Front Speakers: Phoenix Gold rsd 65cs 6½" components

•Front Amp: Kicker ZX550.2

•Sub: Adioque HDC315 D1

•Sub Amp: Kicker ZX1500.1

•Alarm: Python 2 way 1 mile range with 4 extra sirens

•Alternator: 170 amps upgraded from 55

•Battery: Optima Yellow Top

•Box: Fisher Custom (in progress) 4.2 cubes 36hz

all that should IMHO

 
A "normal" person may not, but someone with:•Front Speakers: Phoenix Gold rsd 65cs 6½" components

•Front Amp: Kicker ZX550.2

•Sub: Adioque HDC315 D1

•Sub Amp: Kicker ZX1500.1

•Alarm: Python 2 way 1 mile range with 4 extra sirens

•Alternator: 170 amps upgraded from 55

•Battery: Optima Yellow Top

•Box: Fisher Custom (in progress) 4.2 cubes 36hz

all that should IMHO
Doesn't mean he installed all that. Even though ive installed all my own speakers too, i didnt know how to check the polarity of a sub untill u posted that vid.

 
A "normal" person may not, but someone with:•Front Speakers: Phoenix Gold rsd 65cs 6½" components

•Front Amp: Kicker ZX550.2

•Sub: Adioque HDC315 D1

•Sub Amp: Kicker ZX1500.1

•Alarm: Python 2 way 1 mile range with 4 extra sirens

•Alternator: 170 amps upgraded from 55

•Battery: Optima Yellow Top

•Box: Fisher Custom (in progress) 4.2 cubes 36hz

all that should IMHO
nah, i have lots of expensive equipment and recently spent $800 on a sub from a forum member and i never even bothered checking the v/c's polarity

 
Life isn't fair. But he should return it because he didn't tell u that the terminals were switched.
I vote this. Terminals where marked but marked wrong. If it was not marked then you should have to check it but marked wrong and if he reconed it and marked them wrong that is fair to return it. or he should be nice and at least get you a recone sent out to you.

 
i just got off work, that is why i wasnt posting. I am not as knowledgeable about car audio as all of you guys, so i have never heard of taking a battery to the terminals. The seller told me to do that, but that was after i asked him what was wrong with the sub. It was not the hdc3

 
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