What's a sufficient electrical plan to support 3k?

SPL systems the main focus is being as loud as physically possible, especially the substage portion. Daily the main focus is having a well rounded setup that sounds good. Quality over quanity in a daily (daily setups you'll see strong emphasis on tuning, DSPs, running speakers active, proper sound deadening.....ect)
I guess my system would fall under the SPL category then? I mean, it’s my daily and like you said, I’m not running test tones etc. But I guess I myself am going to have to buy me an HO Alt from signer.
 
What do you guys define as a daily system specifically? Since I’ll be running 2 - HD 3Ks for the Mids, 1 - 1200.4, & 1 Smart 3K but don’t do comps that’s considered daily? Even if when I listen to my music I almost always have it cranked to the highest volume possible?
My truck is a Daily driver. I do not do Comps
 
My truck is a Daily driver. I do not do Comps
I’m serious! Go on lmao I wanna know what you’re getting at. I consider my set up to be a daily. As the traffic in Hawaii is just straight up retarded and I NEED loud music and set up to not dread the commute home.
 
I’m serious! Go on lmao I wanna know what you’re getting at. I consider my set up to be a daily. As the traffic in Hawaii is just straight up retarded and I NEED loud music and set up to not dread the commute home.
My truck is a daily with what I have in it.. People ask all the time..( You drive like that??) LOL
 
I’m serious! Go on lmao I wanna know what you’re getting at. I consider my set up to be a daily. As the traffic in Hawaii is just straight up retarded and I NEED loud music and set up to not dread the commute home.
There were several times I thought I had a serious bad front end alignment, later understanding that is was the Bass notes that was creating my steering issues as well and road vibrations. LOL
 
I’m serious! Go on lmao I wanna know what you’re getting at. I consider my set up to be a daily. As the traffic in Hawaii is just straight up retarded and I NEED loud music and set up to not dread the commute home.
Drove like that for a good solid year and a half before I pulled things out.
 
My truck is a daily with what I have in it.. People ask all the time..( You drive like that??) LOL
Anytime I show my coworkers and friends my set up they give me that same reaction as well! What’s your set up exactly? That vibration is crazy tho I never got that, not loud enough lol..

And same. After I put everything back in this will be the last time I do any kind of stuff for my car. Gonna get a truck next and leave everything completely stock..
 
Gonna get a truck next and leave everything completely stock..

That will last 3 months tops. :D






I used to get alot of crazy looks from co workers who didn't know about my car audio hobby when I daily drove my 2010 and always had a shattered windshield with zip tape all over it. lol Probably thought I hit someone the night before. :LOL:
 
I guess I was over planning in the electrical department. The 250 amp alt, big 3, big amg, and heavy wiring sounds like it might take care of things. I usually don't have my system up that loud anyway. But I want the power there for show and tell with my friends. Lol.

Over planning is good if you'd like to keep your vehicle running for many years. Here's some math: 250 amps = 3450w at 13.8v (idle). Measure in your vehicle's electrical tax that's, let's say an older Toyota Highlander, with no accessories on--you're looking at an output of a 150A alt. Add efficiency loss to an aftermarket alternator build, and you essentially have 130 amperage reserved under ideal driving conditions. Of that 130A, you're throwing an affordable, but power hungry 3k amp into the mix cutting your alternator's efficiency by a 1/3rd. Now you have an effective 87 amp alternator post vehicle needs. 87A at 13.8v = 1200w. From there you can have a custom enclosure built to rattle your friend's ears because all of this wattage and money has essentially boiled down to merely impressing your friends and turning some heads. Just make sure that the HO alternator has a 1-3 year warranty OR you yourself can swap it out quickly if in an unfortunate chance it fails.

If your ride is a daily driver and you're looking to rattle your friends' brains....skip the big 3 at first, install the cheapest max HO alt (keep your OEM in trunk with wrenches), buy a more electrical efficient lower wattage amp, test your battery, and most importantly--build or find a box that bleeds your friends' eyes when they sit in your passenger's seat while you kill a 50hz dubstep track.

Sincerely,

1st post in many years
 
I guess my system would fall under the SPL category then?
Yes. Your buying a bunch of cheap loud speakers for the sole purpose of being as loud as possible. I personally wouldn't go that route, I'd properly sound proof your accord to make it as quite as possible and then focus on quality speakers and tuning. With the amount of speakers you plan on running you might actually have hearing loss (lol)
 
Over planning is good if you'd like to keep your vehicle running for many years. Here's some math: 250 amps = 3450w at 13.8v (idle). Measure in your vehicle's electrical tax that's, let's say an older Toyota Highlander, with no accessories on--you're looking at an output of a 150A alt. Add efficiency loss to an aftermarket alternator build, and you essentially have 130 amperage reserved under ideal driving conditions. Of that 130A, you're throwing an affordable, but power hungry 3k amp into the mix cutting your alternator's efficiency by a 1/3rd. Now you have an effective 87 amp alternator post vehicle needs. 87A at 13.8v = 1200w. From there you can have a custom enclosure built to rattle your friend's ears because all of this wattage and money has essentially boiled down to merely impressing your friends and turning some heads. Just make sure that the HO alternator has a 1-3 year warranty OR you yourself can swap it out quickly if in an unfortunate chance it fails.

If your ride is a daily driver and you're looking to rattle your friends' brains....skip the big 3 at first, install the cheapest max HO alt (keep your OEM in trunk with wrenches), buy a more electrical efficient lower wattage amp, test your battery, and most importantly--build or find a box that bleeds your friends' eyes when they sit in your passenger's seat while you kill a 50hz dubstep track.

Sincerely,

1st post in many years


Thank you for the detailed break down. Maybe I need to look into amps that are more efficient. I want everything to be very reliable, even my alt. I'll pay extra money for the right electrical plan. I just don't want to spend all this money and still end up stranded on the side of the road with a blown alt.

I currently have $4k for everything, but I'm still saving up money.
 
Last edited:
Thank you for the detailed break down. Maybe I need to look into amps that are more efficient. I want everything to be very reliable, even my alt. I'll pay extra money for the right electrical plan. I just don't want to spend all this money and still end up stranded on the side of the road with a blown alt.

I currently have $4k for everything, but I'm still saving up money.

When I had my 2 18's, after I got my 300 amp alt, my subs literally got twice as loud, and I started breaking things. Low notes especially, my lows increased so much I broke my hatch 4 times. If you want the best, run a lot of alt power, so your voltage never drops below 13.8v or so. It'll drop some under a load, regardless. I did run an external voltage regulator on mine. Initially did 15v with my batcaps but lowered it down to 14.8v with more regular AGMS. That's something you might consider, is getting 2 alts and running a self regulated one, and then running a second alt with a voltage regulator. I kept overall higher voltage under a load from having the regulator set up at a higher voltage. So whatever voltage that was factory, say it would drop 1.5v under a load. Well, how ever much I turned my alt up, it would still drop 1.5v. So if you charge at 14.8v vs say 14v, then a 1.5v drop under load still leaves your amps with more voltage. You see what I mean? That was my experience.
 
When I had my 2 18's, after I got my 300 amp alt, my subs literally got twice as loud, and I started breaking things. Low notes especially, my lows increased so much I broke my hatch 4 times. If you want the best, run a lot of alt power, so your voltage never drops below 13.8v or so. It'll drop some under a load, regardless. I did run an external voltage regulator on mine. Initially did 15v with my batcaps but lowered it down to 14.8v with more regular AGMS. That's something you might consider, is getting 2 alts and running a self regulated one, and then running a second alt with a voltage regulator. I kept overall higher voltage under a load from having the regulator set up at a higher voltage. So whatever voltage that was factory, say it would drop 1.5v under a load. Well, how ever much I turned my alt up, it would still drop 1.5v. So if you charge at 14.8v vs say 14v, then a 1.5v drop under load still leaves your amps with more voltage. You see what I mean? That was my experience.

What amps/rms were you trying to support?
 
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