whats a cheaper but same quality sub that can go toe to toe with type r 12

you have 2 ohms or .5 ohms load possible with your current subs. yes it does matter on how you wire them
.5 ohms is much more stressful on an electrical system, i'd advise against it unless you got some good battery, alt and big 3 support.

2 ohms is a lot less power but less stress on your electricals.
ill stick with the 2ohms, so the wiring pic i posted is the way to go

 
ill stick with the 2ohms, so the wiring pic i posted is the way to go
yup. you can also just do this for each sub individually for each positive and negative terminal on the amp if it saves you some hassle. when two subs in series are wired parallel together, their 4 ohms get cut down to 2 ohms which is your final.

1_2ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif


 
yup. you can also just do this for each sub individually for each positive and negative terminal on the amp if it saves you some hassle. when two subs in series are wired parallel together, their 4 ohms get cut down to 2 ohms which is your final.
1_2ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif
in your opinion whats the pros cons compared to the other wiring

 
hey jeff how u feel about this

A large gauge wire pulling a lot of current through it generates a magnetic field. That can cause "noise" that might interfere with signals that are run through the existing vehicle wiring. This is especially true of the wires are in close proximity and running in parallel.
A large gauge wire pulling a lot of current through it generates a magnetic field. That can cause "noise" that might interfere with signals that are run through the existing vehicle wiring. This is especially true of the wires are in close proximity and running in parallel.
It means you will hear other electrical components through your speakers. For example, when using your blinkers you will hear a slight bass thump uniform with your turn signal's flash.
Perhaps, and your amp's power draw may cause electrical noise (from the magnetic field generated by the wire) that could possibly interfere with delicate circuits inside the vehicle such as computer sensors. At least in theory. Those circuits should be designed to handle *expected* electrical noise and transients, but Ford engineers may not have anticipated you running a large 0 gauge wire in close proximity.
I don't claim to know much about installing aftermarket amps, but I'm wondering if it might be best to run high-current the power and ground wires underneath the car instead of through the interior?
 
Only matters if you have sh*tty unshielded RCAs that are ran right next to your power wire. The rest does not apply at all. You should not have any noise when installed properly no matter what gauge wire or if the subs are wired parallel.

 
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