Waterproofing speakers in my door

That's interesting because I'm thinking what would possibly cause a short before the fuse between the battery and the fuse what is going to short out?

After the fuse obviously it could be your amplifier.

In general you usually want a fuse with in 18inch of the power source. The shorter the better as to limit the unprotected length of wire between the power source and fuse.

Wire loom and techflex help protect the wire which is why it is all over factory wire harnesses even in places where it's really not needed
 
Okay thanks I was just seeing if I could actually put the fuse holder inside my car but I returned the fuse holder that I had it was actually too large I got a smaller one so it shouldn't be too hard to mount under the hood somewhere.
 
Okay thanks I was just seeing if I could actually put the fuse holder inside my car but I returned the fuse holder that I had it was actually too large I got a smaller one so it shouldn't be too hard to mount under the hood somewhere.

This is an older pick of mine with a rather large anl fuse holder. The unfused length is as short as I could possibly make it.

It's note very service friendly though as it makes opening the fuse box a pain but it is secure
20180914_123729.jpg
 
Yeah that's a really short wire from the fuse to the battery post

I think I get the point now I think with the smaller fuse holder I have coming from Amazon it shouldn't be an issue. Part of the problem is it's at 1/0 wires so huge.

I was also looking at the areas where I need to do the big three with the 1/0 that's going to be a whole nother issue the negative from the battery post to the body of the car or to the engine wherever the other end is doesn't look difficult the rest of it I can't even find it's so compact under my hood.

One problem at a time I got to get those door panels to go on first going home right now to figure out what's going on.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb and say the white 8-in circle that is my speaker spacer that's a half inch thick is hitting something on the door panel that's my guess.
 
Well I was wrong you were right somebody mentioned it being the foam ring that's exactly what it is it's too thick it's an inch thick I probably need half inch thick don't know if I can cut it in half may not be that easy to do have to search and see if somebody makes a half inch thick foam ring.
 
Well I was wrong you were right somebody mentioned it being the foam ring that's exactly what it is it's too thick it's an inch thick I probably need half inch thick don't know if I can cut it in half may not be that easy to do have to search and see if somebody makes a half inch thick foam ring.

Home Depot sells foam seals everyday. They have a whole section of seals foam,rubber, plastic etc

Most hardware stores will have that section

You could also cut yours down till they fit. A good sharp razor blade or a hot knife works well
 
I tried to cut it with a good blade it tears it up maybe a hot blade might work.

Here's the weird thing I just put the foam back on and I was able to get the panel to snap shut the problem is I don't know how much of the foam is actually touching the back of the speaker grill on the door panel there's no way to get an accurate measurement to find out if it's sealing all the way around the speaker grill I actually got the panel right back on now for some reason maybe the foam is getting smashed down I don't know
 
I tried to cut it with a good blade it tears it up maybe a hot blade might work.

Here's the weird thing I just put the foam back on and I was able to get the panel to snap shut the problem is I don't know how much of the foam is actually touching the back of the speaker grill on the door panel there's no way to get an accurate measurement to find out if it's sealing all the way around the speaker grill I actually got the panel right back on now for some reason maybe the foam is getting smashed down I don't know

Sometimes it just takes playing with it and pushing just the right way. Like being with a woman.
 
Ha ha,. I have a little tiny flashlight and I'm able to shine through the speaker grill and I can see the foam and it looks like it's sealed all the way around but I need a brighter flashlight I need like a like a flood light so I can put it in front of the grill and see the whole thing.

But I think it's working I think it's sealing the opening.

I think I had to finesse it a little but I think it's going to work at least I got one of the door panels on.

I bought 4 ft RCA cables three of them to go with the DSP underneath the passenger seat over to the amplifier underneath the driver's seat well they reached but I didn't have any room to mess around with them to to curve them around the back of the amp send them back and I ended up getting 6 footers.

My new fuse holder is coming tomorrow so I'm going to start working on that tomorrow then I'm going to have to wait till I have a day off because by the time I get home there's not enough light left to take the accelerator pedal off and use the step drill to drill that hole out bigger to get that 1/ 0 wire through.
 
I was going to tell you also once it clicks in there are three bolts that hold the panel onto the door also so once it clicks in and I get the bolts and the bolts are going to help it from unclicking and trying to pop out.
 
So once my speakers are all wired up and the dsps hooked up and the amps hooked up I can't even turn it on until I set all the crossovers in the DSP software correct?
 
So once my speakers are all wired up and the dsps hooked up and the amps hooked up I can't even turn it on until I set all the crossovers in the DSP software correct?

Yes you want to power up the dsp and set the cross overs conservatively first then start adjusting the gains.

It won't hurt to plug everything in first if you keep the gains and volume very low until the dsp is set with the cross over points. You can use a 2000hz tone to safely locat which RCA goes to which speaker if needed.
 
Been trying to lay out the mid-ranges on my dash it's a very weird dash in my car. It's curved and it stays curved the whole way except for in the very back corner of the a-pillar comes down and ends it goes flat for about a four four and a half inch square maybe 5 in it goes completely flat.

In order to get the speaker to sit in there you would have to either pull the dash or you'd have to pull the windshield out to build the drill the hole to put the speaker in I am unwilling to pull the dash out I've watched the video on it it's way too much work. I do know a glass guy automotive guy to pull my windshield out for me but I don't feel confident getting it done in one day and I park my car outside so I could not leave my car outside with the windshield out that's not looking like a good option.

I guess if I could get the holes in the dash and then have my buddy pop the glass back in all in one day I'd probably be okay. The most likely probably the easiest thing to do is order those aluminum pods from the guy in Germany simplest way drill holes in the a pillar and mount them I'm not too fond of the look of those pods and really rather have this mid-range and a dash and then put one pod to hold the Tweeter.

Called a couple local shops to see how much they would charge me to fabricate the a-pillar to accept the mid-range and Twitter and the guy said well it all depends on the angle how much angle there is anywhere from $700 to like 2,500 sounds expensive I can get the pods with the mounting brackets for 320 bucks.

Comments and feedback are welcome what you think my best option is obviously money is an object if money was no object I would just go pay whatever it takes to have my a-pillars molded to fit.
 

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