voltage good, still clipping?

That's weird. Maybe speaker wire because I'm using 10 awg for my 12s and I've played 20hz and my 4500 hasn't gone into protect mode. The speaker wire is the only difference so it might be the issue? 16 awg is pretty small.
yeah I took a look at the speaker wire and its discolored and melted and like burned bad, like I have no idea how a signal is even going thru it. I have 10 gauge ofc from knu on the way, should take care of that. also my gain is at a little more than half way, id say about almost 3/4 of the way up

 
no telling whats happening to the impedance curve with the leaks, and yea they might be shorting out money..we had a huge argument on speaker wire just a few weeks ago, but i'm an idiot so regard larger speaker wire with only 3500 watts. 14ga is plenty.. no seriously a run of 10 GA per woofer..

they woofers naturally like slighly larger boxes as opposed to say the SD Z series because of the lower mass and higher QE. 15 should be good, like i said your gong to start to push them to there limits the larger you go.. you have plenty of power on tap..
fixed the leaks and now they are sounding much better, starting to sound like 2 18s now. I think they just needed a good break in, and they are still in the process of being broken in. I never had real power on them until now.

 
you might like um.. 6 is on the small side though. its one of those drivers the larger the better until you bottom them out.. it should drop to around 30 hz. they gonna get fairly low. if your not using near all thier linear throw try the bigger box..

 
Stop running them until you get the new wire....

If the wire is burned/melted and your amp is protecting, the wires may be touching under the melted insulation

 
im iching to build a system.. my ******* infiniti is awesome but it ***** because of the factory intergration. tge stock systems sound good but i want a woofer and more output..
newer cars are soo unfriendly towards car audio enthusiasts. I like the stock locations but i dont like how weak the stock's output and clarity/staging is.

 
measure the voltage AT THE AMP TERMINALS, you are probably dropping too low and its low voltage protecting if its only low notes.

generally when playing under tuning you have less rise, so more power voltage drops lower.

there are only a few things that make an amp protect, and if you changed the wire, the amp isnt hot, and you dont have a dc short, it narrows it down quick.

 
measure the voltage AT THE AMP TERMINALS, you are probably dropping too low and its low voltage protecting if its only low notes.generally when playing under tuning you have less rise, so more power voltage drops lower.

there are only a few things that make an amp protect, and if you changed the wire, the amp isnt hot, and you dont have a dc short, it narrows it down quick.
my speaker wire is good I changed it out this morning, the last wire I had was burned up. the amp is wired correctly with 0 gauge 100%ofc to my 2 dekas in the rear. the amp gets warm but never hot even after hours of play time. however I have the batteries grounded to the rear seat bolt, would it be better to ground it to the frame directly? would that help with that protect problem. ill check the voltage at the terminals and see whats going on

 
my speaker wire is good I changed it out this morning, the last wire I had was burned up. the amp is wired correctly with 0 gauge 100%ofc to my 2 dekas in the rear. the amp gets warm but never hot even after hours of play time. however I have the batteries grounded to the rear seat bolt, would it be better to ground it to the frame directly? would that help with that protect problem. ill check the voltage at the terminals and see whats going on


Ya seat belt isn't the best place to ground. I have my amps grounded to batts and batts grounded up front to the engine block.

 
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