Voltage Drop

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

alright i have a nissan altima 2001.. it has a 100 amp alt stock.. i did the big 3 in 0 gauge.. I have a t1000.1bd and 2 alpine 300 watt amps for speakers.. dont have model numbers off head.. anyways.. I have huge drops when im really banging.. not so bad in the medium range.. but i can't thump at high levels for too long or if im stopped because it will go down to low 11's real fast and i turn it down.. now then.. I have a battery that has a want to say 660 cca and 720ca.. something around there.. what would be my best solution/cheapest solution..

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[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

what ga wire do u have run to your bass amp? I would check your grounds and look to get a battery for upfront that is better for car audio.

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

how did you set gains?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Get an agm type battery under the hood maybe add a second in back.

I would get 2 kinetik hc 1200s or 1400's 1 for under the hood one for the trunk.

If I add the sub amp I am looking at I may very well do that but I already have a 1400.

I would check your connections in your big 3 and get a free test done at autozone on your alt and battery to just to be sure

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

Batteries are needed my friend. 720 cranking amps isn't the greatest. You a back battery, which I highly recommend you getting one, don't even think about a cap. Me personally I would invest in a kinetik, optima, or whatever for a back battery. Then I would upgrade the front. Then problem solve. Ignore the alternator talk.

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

Batteries are needed my friend. 720 cranking amps isn't the greatest. You a back battery, which I highly recommend you getting one, don't even think about a cap. Me personally I would invest in a kinetik, optima, or whatever for a back battery. Then I would upgrade the front. Then problem solve. Ignore the alternator talk.

if he ignores the alternator talk, then even the kinetik will go dead. the drop is because the alt can't keep up, and is worsened by the not so great battery.

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

if he ignores the alternator talk, then even the kinetik will go dead. the drop is because the alt can't keep up, and is worsened by the not so great battery.

But that makes not sense to buy a new alternator unless the batteries are running out of juice that quick. If just upgrades the front battery with one in the back, he will be fine.

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

But that makes not sense to buy a new alternator unless the batteries are running out of juice that quick. If just upgrades the front battery with one in the back, he will be fine.

He will still only be able to sustain 12v and for a short period of time. if he wants to do it properly and maintain 14v then an alt will be needed.

...this sounds like a daily setup. 14v is the best route.

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

ummm... ok.. i will try to go down the line..

i have zero gauge wire all through out.. My grounds are rock solid..

Get an agm type battery under the hood maybe add a second in back.

I would get 2 kinetik hc 1200s or 1400's 1 for under the hood one for the trunk.

If I add the sub amp I am looking at I may very well do that but I already have a 1400.

 

I would check your connections in your big 3 and get a free test done at autozone on your alt and battery to just to be sure

agm battery?? big three is connected properly.. all the connections are fine guys.. my volts are at 14.7 at idle.. and only go down to 14.1 when semi thumping..

gains are set correctly.. 2 volts in gain set to 2 volts..

Batteries are needed my friend. 720 cranking amps isn't the greatest. You a back battery, which I highly recommend you getting one, don't even think about a cap. Me personally I would invest in a kinetik, optima, or whatever for a back battery. Then I would upgrade the front. Then problem solve. Ignore the alternator talk.

minus the hard to read part.. yes i know 720 isn't high.. its a regular car battery.. not made for any type of audio.. secondly.. wouldn't I want to upgrade what I have first and go from there.. not go backwards..? I didn't even mention a cap either.. i said battery/alt

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

ummm... ok.. i will try to go down the line..
i have zero gauge wire all through out.. My grounds are rock solid..

Get an agm type battery under the hood maybe add a second in back.

I would get 2 kinetik hc 1200s or 1400's 1 for under the hood one for the trunk.

If I add the sub amp I am looking at I may very well do that but I already have a 1400.

 

I would check your connections in your big 3 and get a free test done at autozone on your alt and battery to just to be sure

agm battery?? big three is connected properly.. all the connections are fine guys.. my volts are at 14.7 at idle.. and only go down to 14.1 when semi thumping..

gains are set correctly.. 2 volts in gain set to 2 volts..

Batteries are needed my friend. 720 cranking amps isn't the greatest. You a back battery, which I highly recommend you getting one, don't even think about a cap. Me personally I would invest in a kinetik, optima, or whatever for a back battery. Then I would upgrade the front. Then problem solve. Ignore the alternator talk.

minus the hard to read part.. yes i know 720 isn't high.. its a regular car battery.. not made for any type of audio.. secondly.. wouldn't I want to upgrade what I have first and go from there.. not go backwards..? I didn't even mention a cap either.. i said battery/alt

Sorry about the hard to read part, I was on my phone. But me personally I would go with putting a battery in the back to sustain you until you could afford to get one for the front, or you might not need one up front at all. My best advice would be to upgrade both though, than if you feel you need an alternator, then go purchase one. Your doing a daily set up not comp, so I think an alternator is a waste of time. But however you do it, just upgrade.

Back battery--->Front Battery---->(if needed alternator)

 

[SHOemup233 10+ year member]

if he ignores the alternator talk, then even the kinetik will go dead. the drop is because the alt can't keep up, and is worsened by the not so great battery.

He will still only be able to sustain 12v and for a short period of time. if he wants to do it properly and maintain 14v then an alt will be needed.
...this sounds like a daily setup. 14v is the best route.

He does not need a new alternator for 1000 watts. Music is dynamic, and his amp will not be drawing the same amount the entire time. Whenever the amp isn't, the alt will obviously charge the batteries. There are plenty of people that run 2-3000 watts with multiple batteries, stock alt, and no problems. If everyone required a high output alternator for only a mere 1000 watts, there would be a lot less people with subs. If you truly think a HO alt is required for 1000 watts, then you have quite a few people to convince otherwise.

 

[dman4486 5,000+ posts]

He does not need a new alternator for 1000 watts. Music is dynamic, and his amp will not be drawing the same amount the entire time. Whenever the amp isn't, the alt will obviously charge the batteries. There are plenty of people that run 2-3000 watts with multiple batteries, stock alt, and no problems. If everyone required a high output alternator for only a mere 1000 watts, there would be a lot less people with subs. If you truly think a HO alt is required for 1000 watts, then you have quite a few people to convince otherwise.

He claims 1k for sub stage and 600 for mids/highs. if he is running it to the point of 11v, then there is something else wrong then just replacing the battery. yes maybe the stock batt has high internal resistance due to age, but then why replace it with a kinetik? 1k can easily be handled by a stock replacement bat and better than 100amp alt.

in this case, I say a battery(kinetik etc) is merely a band aid.

 

[skmfkr 5,000+ posts]

Get an agm type battery under the hood maybe add a second in back.I would get 2 kinetik hc 1200s or 1400's 1 for under the hood one for the trunk.

If I add the sub amp I am looking at I may very well do that but I already have a 1400.

I would check your connections in your big 3 and get a free test done at autozone on your alt and battery to just to be sure

never heard of the hc1200, what group size is that

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

umm... ok.. so i see a lot of arguing and don't know where to go.. I have also seen people running 3k watts and just have but loads of batteries in the back.. but for the price of all of them i could get and h/o.. if for example i only needed maybe 1-2 then sure.. otherwise the h/o alty would be my cheapest choice.. I have a quoted price for a custom one from ohio generators for 425 at my door.. 200amp

 

[williambrea 10+ year member]

an easy way to keep your voltage up is to ditch grounding to your sheet metal and run another ground wire to your negative terminal on your battery and you will be able to tell immidiatley that your voltage is more stable.