Voltage Drop

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

He claims 1k for sub stage and 600 for mids/highs. if he is running it to the point of 11v, then there is something else wrong then just replacing the battery. yes maybe the stock batt has high internal resistance due to age, but then why replace it with a kinetik? 1k can easily be handled by a stock replacement bat and better than 100amp alt.

in this case, I say a battery(kinetik etc) is merely a band aid.

1000+ + 600 = 1000? also guess you missed where i said.

"I would check your connections in your big 3 and get a free test done at autozone on your alt and battery to just to be sure "

Reason I said 2 batteries is due to the fact a battery closer to your amplifiers works better than from all the way under your hood and the reason to add a second is to prolong the life of both batteries as they would not fight nearly as much as a stocker vs a set of identicle batteries. I have ran highoutput alts, extra batteries and stock alts...my first set up would have been when you were about 3:laugh:

 

[SHOemup233 10+ year member]

He claims 1k for sub stage and 600 for mids/highs. if he is running it to the point of 11v, then there is something else wrong then just replacing the battery. yes maybe the stock batt has high internal resistance due to age, but then why replace it with a kinetik? 1k can easily be handled by a stock replacement bat and better than 100amp alt.

in this case, I say a battery(kinetik etc) is merely a band aid.

Again, your missing the point in the concept that the amps for the speakers will very rarely even draw 300 watts, let alone 600, and the sub amp also will very rarely draw the full power. The problem is being caused by bad connection, or by a bad front battery. I would be willing to bet that replacing the front battery with the biggest and best possible will solve his problem. I don't understand your logic at all, his front battery is going to bad and your saying instead of buying a good kinitek or powermaster for 100-200 at the most, he should instead buy a crappy $50-80 battery and a $400 alt? Why would he not just buy a good battery up front in the first place like what should be there in car audio, make sure all connections are good, and then deem what is the next step?

 

[Enellz 10+ year member]

Wow this thread went to hell

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

ya.. keyboard warriors.. i don't know where to start lol

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

so I will try again.. should I start by getting a new battery up front or a small one in back

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

the "small" battery in the back has to still be large enough to support your system. IIRC your sub amp is 1300 ish watts. That is why I stated an HC1200. If the battery is not large enough to handle the task you could deep cycle it too much/often that it will eventually fail premature..that comes down to lead in the battery, size eventually matters especialy dealing with stock electrical

 

[fast85_gt]

an easy way to keep your voltage up is to ditch grounding to your sheet metal and run another ground wire to your negative terminal on your battery and you will be able to tell immidiatley that your voltage is more stable.

did you think about this before you wrote it couse he said he done big three whitch means he has to grounds going to batt neg engine bloce to batt and frame to batt negg so where else is going to get anuther ground from?

 

[fast85_gt]

so I will try again.. should I start by getting a new battery up front or a small one in back

get your batt checked like was said before becouse i know becouse i went thue this with my car but the voltage is dropping fast becouse you are haveing a cell prob with you batt my voteage would stay up while i was just playing mid range when i would turn it up more it would drop to 11 volts quick and went to autozone for a check and had a cell goig bad swaped batts and doing good now and i running 1200wrms but a second batt will help in the back aswell and i only have a 90amp alty hope this helps

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

they can tell if there is a cell going bad?? my voltage is 14.4-14.8 when idling and 14.2 mid bumping.. but slamming it it drops to low 11's fairly fast unless im driving around..

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

also do you have a second batt or no.. how is your voltage drop/light dimming... mine blink.. to every beat

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

the "small" battery in the back has to still be large enough to support your system. IIRC your sub amp is 1300 ish watts. That is why I stated an HC1200. If the battery is not large enough to handle the task you could deep cycle it too much/often that it will eventually fail premature..that comes down to lead in the battery, size eventually matters especialy dealing with stock electrical

IIRC? and i was going to pick up a 2400 for 200 or cheaper locally.. if i need it..

 

[SHOemup233 10+ year member]

so I will try again.. should I start by getting a new battery up front or a small one in back

I haven't read this thread in a while, but your best bet is to replace the front battery with the biggest deep cycle you can, as you will need to anyway. Make sure you have the big 3 done, and make sure all of your grounds are very good. All connections solid. Then you shouldn't be getting huge drops from 1300 watts, that isn't that much if you have solid battery/batteries.

 

[KyleBechtold 5,000+ posts]

well Right now i have a battery with 5 yrs left on the warranty.. INTERSTATE FTW!! unless you like car audio lol.. i think i will do the back battery first and let the other one die after 5 yrs and get a different one... unless the back on doesn't help.. now then.. how do you hook up a battery in the back?

 

[fast85_gt]

they can tell if there is a cell going bad?? my voltage is 14.4-14.8 when idling and 14.2 mid bumping.. but slamming it it drops to low 11's fairly fast unless im driving around..

mine was doing the same thing when i would turn it down the volts would go back to normal becouse it had a cell going bad i have 1 batt up front with big three done

 

[fast85_gt]

and no blinking now