using a capcitor does help..........

WRONG ! a capacitor can deliver amps more quickly than a Battery. Why ? because a battery is depending on the alternator to to deliver the current first. Where as a cap has this ready and available once charged.
While this used to be believed to be true, it has actually been proven false numerous times.

 
Originally Posted by wishbone View Post

If you are someone whom has been convinced that a capacitor doesn't help, I have proof it does. After installing one in my mini van yesterday I immediately noticed the sound comming from the subs was enhanced greatly. The dimming of the lights on the radio, head lights, and instrument panel stopped. I am running the wrong awg wire from the battery which also contributed to dimming but, with the capacitor supplying voltage and current directly to the amp, helps bypass the wiring problem. I was told 1/0 wire isn't needed for the 1200 watt system I am trying to accomplish. Actually I was told 4awg should be more than enough. So before running out buying extra batteries and geting 0awg wire, look into buying a capacitor. Besides it can't hurt to have one even if you think it's not working.

the current drain from your system is only just over what your power supply can constantly supply at certain moments in time causing a brief trough in your available current. it seems cap is only just capable of filling this small trough... but will draw current immediately after the brief system drain has finished to equalise for the next drain. this will lower the continuous current supply from your charging system very slightly long term in allowing the cap to do it's job: smooth out the slight ripple you could visually pick out from every filament lamp in the car. this means that the cap has sorted the flashing lights at the cost of some valuable excess current. the reason why your amp might sounds better is because the supply is slightly more level allowing the dynamics of your music to be more truly reproduced in fitting with the original signal (amps zero line is flatter). the amp, however, will very slightly quieter with the extra drain (cap smoothing cycle) on the supply. amplifiers require large amounts of electrolytic caps in their own power supply's to do the same business as i mentioned earlier, smooth the supply for accurate reproduction of music. in practice you may notice a reduction in dc ripple through the lights not flashing so much but i'd be surprised if you could notice a major audible change in the amp output response. if u add any more amps i believe u will instantaneously get your flashy problem back double what it was before.

you don't really need to go to 0awg for 1200wrms. as u said. 4awg is fine unless you have a car as long as a football field of course. i believe your cap may have eased your power supply ripple a lil as you are probably only drawing like 80A extra for the system anyway. your system will be very slightly quieter as a result (i mean fractions of a db) as unfortunately we can't create energy from nothing in this reality. get a massive super conducting battery, some solid silver bus bars submerged in liquid nitrogen for your power rail and an alternator from the hoover dam. your gonna have to make one hell of a step down ****** and bridge rectifier for it though and then you will need thousands of your caps to smooth it. you could even float each one in liquid nitrogen too. then your lights wouldn't dim anymore, they would blow up and then there would be no problem anymore!

i'm gonna have another spliff now, good nite my wonderful low frequency junkies!

Henry:p:

 
ok im some what of a noob and even i would never put a shity cap in my car or any ones car and i laugh at the ppl who do .Cause they cant figure out why their alt that was good before the put the cap in as went bad in about a period of 6 months . hum lets see the cap sucks juice from the battery and the voltage rectifier senses that the battery is low so it then runs the alt harder to recharge the battery .The only thing a cap dose like every one else said is put a bigger strain on you electrical system and your charging system . so in 6 months to a year depending on how loud you play it and how long you play it . your going to come in hear and start wining about how your battery or your alt went bad depending on witch is the weakest link in the system and no one is going to want to help you and you know why . Its because you had to argue and fight with every one on how a cap was good for your car and how it made it so much better. so do your self a favor and listen to what there telling you cause there probably more years of experience hear then you have brain cells.

I am not saying changing the ALT is out of the question, but for me, not at this stage. And you are wrong about the strain part.

1. The cap is charge before the car has been started.

2. The only thing drawing power from the cap are the amps, not my lights etc.

3. If you blow an ALT you needed another one any way, it has nothing to do with

your audio system,

 
WRONG ! a capacitor can deliver amps more quickly than a Battery. Why ? because a battery is depending on the alternator to to deliver the current first. Where as a cap has this ready and available once charged.
dude wtf...u really need to give it up. a battery stores energy, what else do u think they're for? come on, do u even think before u type? where does this cap get energy from? does it just pull it outta the sky?

 
yea, i am from the bricks.. right by barringer high school..i hear you about not giving up, but in here. sometimes you just have to say "fu*k it, ill just stop waisting my time and keep it moving onto better things"...lol
I use to travel back and forth pass Barringer on the #51 bus my entire 4 years of High School. R O U G H !

WB

 
Originally Posted by wishbone View Post

If you are someone whom has been convinced that a capacitor doesn't help, I have proof it does. After installing one in my mini van yesterday I immediately noticed the sound comming from the subs was enhanced greatly. The dimming of the lights on the radio, head lights, and instrument panel stopped. I am running the wrong awg wire from the battery which also contributed to dimming but, with the capacitor supplying voltage and current directly to the amp, helps bypass the wiring problem. I was told 1/0 wire isn't needed for the 1200 watt system I am trying to accomplish. Actually I was told 4awg should be more than enough. So before running out buying extra batteries and geting 0awg wire, look into buying a capacitor. Besides it can't hurt to have one even if you think it's not working.

the current drain from your system is only just over what your power supply can constantly supply at certain moments in time causing a brief trough in your available current. it seems cap is only just capable of filling this small trough... but will draw current immediately after the brief system drain has finished to equalise for the next drain. this will lower the continuous current supply from your charging system very slightly long term in allowing the cap to do it's job: smooth out the slight ripple you could visually pick out from every filament lamp in the car. this means that the cap has sorted the flashing lights at the cost of some valuable excess current. the reason why your amp might sounds better is because the supply is slightly more level allowing the dynamics of your music to be more truly reproduced in fitting with the original signal (amps zero line is flatter). the amp, however, will very slightly quieter with the extra drain (cap smoothing cycle) on the supply. amplifiers require large amounts of electrolytic caps in their own power supply's to do the same business as i mentioned earlier, smooth the supply for accurate reproduction of music. in practice you may notice a reduction in dc ripple through the lights not flashing so much but i'd be surprised if you could notice a major audible change in the amp output response. if u add any more amps i believe u will instantaneously get your flashy problem back double what it was before.

you don't really need to go to 0awg for 1200wrms. as u said. 4awg is fine unless you have a car as long as a football field of course. i believe your cap may have eased your power supply ripple a lil as you are probably only drawing like 80A extra for the system anyway. your system will be very slightly quieter as a result (i mean fractions of a db) as unfortunately we can't create energy from nothing in this reality. get a massive super conducting battery, some solid silver bus bars submerged in liquid nitrogen for your power rail and an alternator from the hoover dam. your gonna have to make one hell of a step down ****** and bridge rectifier for it though and then you will need thousands of your caps to smooth it. you could even float each one in liquid nitrogen too. then your lights wouldn't dim anymore, they would blow up and then there would be no problem anymore!

i'm gonna have another spliff now, good nite my wonderful low frequency junkies!

Henry:p:

 
yea, i am from the bricks.. right by barringer high school..i hear you about not giving up, but in here. sometimes you just have to say "fu*k it, ill just stop waisting my time and keep it moving onto better things"...lol
Listen to his advice. It will keep you from failing OP.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
i just spent ages trying to answer wishbones statement and he's obviously not even read it? obviously my 15 years in audio and electronic means nothing then:rolleyes: oh well, he can keep his caps. goodnite!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 
dude wtf...u really need to give it up. a battery stores energy, what else do u think they're for? come on, do u even think before u type? where does this cap get energy from? does it just pull it outta the sky?
From the sun.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif

 
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