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Message: <blockquote data-quote="proffessa" data-source="post: 5542548" data-attributes="member: 603688">Originally Posted by wishbone View PostIf you are someone whom has been convinced that a capacitor doesn't help, I have proof it does. After installing one in my mini van yesterday I immediately noticed the sound comming from the subs was enhanced greatly. The dimming of the lights on the radio, head lights, and instrument panel stopped. I am running the wrong awg wire from the battery which also contributed to dimming but, with the capacitor supplying voltage and current directly to the amp, helps bypass the wiring problem. I was told 1/0 wire isn't needed for the 1200 watt system I am trying to accomplish. Actually I was told 4awg should be more than enough. So before running out buying extra batteries and geting 0awg wire, look into buying a capacitor. Besides it can't hurt to have one even if you think it's not working.the current drain from your system is only just over what your power supply can constantly supply at certain moments in time causing a brief trough in your available current. it seems cap is only just capable of filling this small trough... but will draw current immediately after the brief system drain has finished to equalise for the next drain. this will lower the continuous current supply from your charging system very slightly long term in allowing the cap to do it's job: smooth out the slight ripple you could visually pick out from every filament lamp in the car. this means that the cap has sorted the flashing lights at the cost of some valuable excess current. the reason why your amp might sounds better is because the supply is slightly more level allowing the dynamics of your music to be more truly reproduced in fitting with the original signal (amps zero line is flatter). the amp, however, will very slightly quieter with the extra drain (cap smoothing cycle) on the supply. amplifiers require large amounts of electrolytic caps in their own power supply's to do the same business as i mentioned earlier, smooth the supply for accurate reproduction of music. in practice you may notice a reduction in dc ripple through the lights not flashing so much but i'd be surprised if you could notice a major audible change in the amp output response. if u add any more amps i believe u will instantaneously get your flashy problem back double what it was before.you don't really need to go to 0awg for 1200wrms. as u said. 4awg is fine unless you have a car as long as a football field of course. i believe your cap may have eased your power supply ripple a lil as you are probably only drawing like 80A extra for the system anyway. your system will be very slightly quieter as a result (i mean fractions of a db) as unfortunately we can't create energy from nothing in this reality. get a massive super conducting battery, some solid silver bus bars submerged in liquid nitrogen for your power rail and an alternator from the hoover dam. your gonna have to make one hell of a step down ****** and bridge rectifier for it though and then you will need thousands of your caps to smooth it. you could even float each one in liquid nitrogen too. then your lights wouldn't dim anymore, they would blow up and then there would be no problem anymore!i'm gonna have another spliff now, good nite my wonderful low frequency junkies!Henry<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick out tongue    :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />:</blockquote>

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