two dd 9500 15's or one dd redline 800 18"?

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Just get a couple 3 inch coil 12's or 15s, keep your current amp or swap it for a MD12k or similar and get a full size suv or truck. Dual alt brackets are ~$250. You can get two ad244's from a junkyard for $50 each and you'll get nearly 400a peak and 250a at idle. If you buy two aftermarket alts ($800 or so) you'll get 600a peak and 440a at idle.

 

[ferguson621]

Change of plans.......im going with three btl4 15's

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Change of plans.......im going with three btl4 15's

So at what ohm load are you planning to drive your amp?

You really should just invest some money into having a professional design and build your box for you.

 

[ferguson621]

If I get three dual 2's I can run them at 2.6 ohms and be on the safe side....correct?

It puts out like 5200 at 4ohms.....so 2.6 would be roughly 6500? I'm not the greatest with math lol.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

It puts out like 5200 at 4ohms...

At 2 ohms according to their website. That's assuming you get your electrical system right and hopefully are using some 2:1 power and ground adapters for that amp to feed it.

 

[ferguson621]

Yes I've got dual inputs for both, running two 4/0 for power and two 2/0 for ground

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

Yes I've got dual inputs for both, running two 4/0 for power and two 2/0 for ground

Which amp are you going with? MD8K? If so, which ohm version?
Shouldn't the power and grounds be the same size?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Yes I've got dual inputs for both, running two 4/0 for power and two 2/0 for ground

You should be using the same size wire for each... but those wires are plenty so it shouldn't be an issue. In the future use the same size

 

[ferguson621]

Gotcha, I unfortunately had to get the 2 ohm version because the 9500's were dual 2, and I cant afford a good enough Korean that can be wired down to .5 ohm safely. So im stuck with the 2 ohm version. I really don't like it lol.

Would i benefit from having a line out converter to increase the preamp voltage?

 

[ferguson621]

So on paper the md8k puts out 8k @12.5v
So about how much would it put out at 3 ohm?

I need some help deciding on what to do.

I can either get three 15's and wire them to 3 ohms or I could get two 18's and wire them to 2 ohms.

Because if all else fails they only need 2.5 cu ft sealed each lol.....for the 15's

I found a few build logs online so it gave me some really good visuals on how I need to do everything in order to wall it off properly.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

So about how much would it put out at 3 ohm?

It'll need to draw as much as 800A, where's that coming from?

 

[ferguson621]

I'll clamp it and see what its putting out with my current electrical.

 

[ferguson621]

So im going with two 18's instead. Since I'll be able to wire them to 2 ohms.

And there's only two instead of three.
I'll take some pictures of what I've started doing, im going to wall it obviously, I found a really good build log on smd by shizzon, it helped me tremendously. I'm lining the back with 2x4's so I can use every square inch this time.

Im going to make a frame like how you did hispls, except I'll be doing a center slot.

Oh and im buying the termlab box software.
Im tired of playing guess and check.
Im also buying an spl lab meter.
Fuckk all the ******** lol.
I've wasted so much money the past few months on wood, and recones.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Im going to make a frame like how you did hispls, except I'll be doing a center slot.

Port driver's side will meter best DB Drag style, Port up top will meter better USACi (Outlaw/at the kick). Center ports are fine for music.

I'm pretty happy with the 2x4 skeleton we did in my brother's civic for rigidity. That + one layer of ply was sufficient there. Rough cut 2x4 is super cheap from a local mill here, if you're buying finished lumber it may not be a savings over buying many layers of MDF/Ply..

Before you get going, glue up some PVC pipe along one or both sides of the vehicle. That'll give you a route for wiring now and later if you need to add or replace anything. EVERYTHING else should be thoroughly sealed along the edges, top, and bottom.

DO NOT skimp on thickness/layers. I used 5 layers for the baffle on my Jeep and in retrospect I wish I had done 7 or 8. It will flex without the steel bracing on top of the 5 layers (mixed MDF and ply). Buy a gallon of wood glue and some weenie rollers to lay down glue between layers. Wipe each piece with a wet rag or towel first, that'll thin the glue a little bit which is fine for doing layers, and it'll clean off any dust which may hurt the bond.

Go as big as you can on the box and port. Way easier to shrink box or shrink port or lengthen port to adjust tuning later than to make the box or port larger or shorten a too-long port.

 

[ferguson621]

I'll take some more here shortly...but so far it's solid

I've got high hopes this time around. Im feeling more confident now.

In my head I want it to look like what you see in the YouTube videos where the whole inside is painted and the subs are inverted with leds and a pole.....

But in my reality in always turns out like total ****. So im hoping to actually achieve something similar this time. Since I've been looking at tons of build logs and videos to get ideas.

I usually end up loosing motivation cause I hate doing it by myself all the time lol.....so im like eh **** it

I hate relying on people unless I absolutely have to lol.