esb
CarAudio.com Newbie
My son has a 2020 Hyundai Elantra in which we installed an AudioControl LC-1.800 amp and Skar DDX-12 sub (in a ported enclosure). We ran 4 gauge wire from the battery to the sub with a 100 amp fuse at the battery. The sub is grounded to a threaded hole in the frame and mounted to the back of the left rear seat. We tapped the left rear speaker wires in the pillar between the front and rear doors and have the amp configured for signal sensing to automatically turn it on. The amp takes speaker-level inputs.
Everything had been working fine for the better part of a year when the sub stopped working (while driving). There are no lights on the amp. The wiring looks fine and I'm measuring 12.4 v at the power terminals on the amp (14v when the car is running). The amp has 2 x 40A fuses and both were blown. I replaced the fuses, but the problem persisted. Checking the fuses again showed they are still intact.
I hooked up an AudioControl ACM-1.300 amp to the existing wiring and it too had the same problem (no lights, no sound, intact fuse). I temporarily connected the remote turn on terminal to 12v and the amp turned on. It also played audio, though at a lower volume than expected (though it is a smaller amp, so lower volume isn't unreasonable). But... the auto sensing feature still failed to work the same as the original, larger amp.
I then hooked the original amp back up. It failed to turn on with auto-sensing, but did turn on when the remote turn on wire was connected to 12v. Audio output to the sub worked but was much lower than it should be (and than it was originally).
I then re-spliced the two signal/speaker wires coming from the left/rear speaker. I double checked the ground wire which was still very securely attached to the frame. I also checked the front/rear fader and listened to the various door speakers to make sure the left rear was equal to the others. As far as I can tell the left rear door speaker is just as loud as it's been in the past. The audio signal going to the amp should be the same as its always been.
Any ideas what is wrong here? Clearly that was some sort of major issue that caused the two 40A fuses to blow. But... given that a different amp behaves the same way as the original, it doesn't seem like it's a problem with the amp. The amp seems to have power and is getting an input signal. A low input signal might explain the symptoms, though I don't have an explanation for how the speaker inputs are different now vs. before the issue occurred (nor how the event that caused the fuses to blow would be related).
Everything had been working fine for the better part of a year when the sub stopped working (while driving). There are no lights on the amp. The wiring looks fine and I'm measuring 12.4 v at the power terminals on the amp (14v when the car is running). The amp has 2 x 40A fuses and both were blown. I replaced the fuses, but the problem persisted. Checking the fuses again showed they are still intact.
I hooked up an AudioControl ACM-1.300 amp to the existing wiring and it too had the same problem (no lights, no sound, intact fuse). I temporarily connected the remote turn on terminal to 12v and the amp turned on. It also played audio, though at a lower volume than expected (though it is a smaller amp, so lower volume isn't unreasonable). But... the auto sensing feature still failed to work the same as the original, larger amp.
I then hooked the original amp back up. It failed to turn on with auto-sensing, but did turn on when the remote turn on wire was connected to 12v. Audio output to the sub worked but was much lower than it should be (and than it was originally).
I then re-spliced the two signal/speaker wires coming from the left/rear speaker. I double checked the ground wire which was still very securely attached to the frame. I also checked the front/rear fader and listened to the various door speakers to make sure the left rear was equal to the others. As far as I can tell the left rear door speaker is just as loud as it's been in the past. The audio signal going to the amp should be the same as its always been.
Any ideas what is wrong here? Clearly that was some sort of major issue that caused the two 40A fuses to blow. But... given that a different amp behaves the same way as the original, it doesn't seem like it's a problem with the amp. The amp seems to have power and is getting an input signal. A low input signal might explain the symptoms, though I don't have an explanation for how the speaker inputs are different now vs. before the issue occurred (nor how the event that caused the fuses to blow would be related).
