Tundra Door Speakers and amp/sub install help

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JohnFknWick

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NH USA
I've been doing research and slowly accumulating stuff for a month or so on how to do this, but the information/hype on youtube and cruthfield leaves me with some questions.
I bought a 5 channel JP95 amp, 18inch subwoofer, 6.5 midrange door speakers (4), 0/1 power wire, 10awg speaker wire, 16awg hookup wire, and various tools and metra speaker adapters.
My 2011 Tundra has the base speaker system, a non-amplified setup with 6.5inch door speakers(4) and 3.5 dashboard speakers(2). The head unit's wiring harness only has 4 sets of speakers wires with no subwoofer out.

Do I need to use a hi-lo converter or can I just splice into the head unit speaker wires with a chopped RCA cable?
How to keep the 3.5 dash speakers stock when they are wired with the same signal as the front door 6.5 speakers?
Will RCA Y-adapters affect the signal strength to the amp inputs?
How can I ensure I'm getting a full-range signal to my amplifier?
Do the amplifier crossover dials suffice or do I need to wire in a capacitor to protect the 6.5 midrange speakers from <100hz?

Also looking for recommendations on building a box for the 18inch subwoofer. Best glue/nails/screws/materials/tools
I'm a rookie in terms of not getting hands on with this but hopefully you guys can understand that I tried to get the info before playing 20 questions, it just gets to the point of information overload.
 
I've been doing research and slowly accumulating stuff for a month or so on how to do this, but the information/hype on youtube and cruthfield leaves me with some questions.
I bought a 5 channel JP95 amp, 18inch subwoofer, 6.5 midrange door speakers (4), 0/1 power wire, 10awg speaker wire, 16awg hookup wire, and various tools and metra speaker adapters.
My 2011 Tundra has the base speaker system, a non-amplified setup with 6.5inch door speakers(4) and 3.5 dashboard speakers(2). The head unit's wiring harness only has 4 sets of speakers wires with no subwoofer out.

Do I need to use a hi-lo converter or can I just splice into the head unit speaker wires with a chopped RCA cable?
How to keep the 3.5 dash speakers stock when they are wired with the same signal as the front door 6.5 speakers?
Will RCA Y-adapters affect the signal strength to the amp inputs?
How can I ensure I'm getting a full-range signal to my amplifier?
Do the amplifier crossover dials suffice or do I need to wire in a capacitor to protect the 6.5 midrange speakers from <100hz?

Also looking for recommendations on building a box for the 18inch subwoofer. Best glue/nails/screws/materials/tools
I'm a rookie in terms of not getting hands on with this but hopefully you guys can understand that I tried to get the info before playing 20 questions, it just gets to the point of information overload.

What 18" sub did you buy? Are you going to have enough power to push that 18? Where are you putting the sub? What type of box?
 
What 18" sub did you buy? Are you going to have enough power to push that 18? Where are you putting the sub? What type of box?

Skar ZVX-18v2 D2. 2ohm should be around 450w rms. I don't really want crazy loud or need to upgrade alternator so was hoping that would be enough. I wanted a sealed box in the backseat area. The seats fold up and have 3ft by 5ft of space to fit the box.
 
Skar ZVX-18v2 D2. 2ohm should be around 450w rms. I don't really want crazy loud or need to upgrade alternator so was hoping that would be enough. I wanted a sealed box in the backseat area. The seats fold up and have 3ft by 5ft of space to fit the box.

That is way too much sub with only 450 watts to power it. You need to find a sub that is about 600-800 watts rms. Maybe an Alpine type R or a lower end Skar.
 
That is way too much sub with only 450 watts to power it. You need to find a sub that is about 600-800 watts rms. Maybe an Alpine type R or a lower end Skar.

Ok, I'll look at options for a different sub or maybe a monoblock amp. I already have the sub sadly so idk if I want to just return it since it's really fkin sweet.
 
Ok, I'll look at options for a different sub or maybe a monoblock amp. I already have the sub sadly so idk if I want to just return it since it's really fkin sweet.

Maybe a Cab 22 or SIA1750. You don't have a lot of room so pick wisely. That sub can probably handle an SIA3500 but I know that you don't want to upgrade your electrical.
 
Maybe a Cab 22 or SIA1750. You don't have a lot of room so pick wisely. That sub can probably handle an SIA3500 but I know that you don't want to upgrade your electrical.

Since the sub has dual 2ohm voice coils, when I wire it in parallel to 1ohm the amp will actually provide twice the power. So if I push the 900-1000 RMS rather than 450 is that sufficient?
 
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