The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

Gotcha jeff....i will definitely do that. And thank you dmuney. I have a few cans of expanding foam on hand at the moment. The good **** in the red can with a yellow cap. Its raining here sadly enough so I'm not sure how much ill be able to get done today. I hate kansas weather with a passion....one minute its 80 degress and the next it's snowing or raining....

 
with that configuration. chances are your going to have loading issues. The top woofer never unloaded? Id drop the three 18s for 4 15s. Do two on top an two on bottom port in the middle. it will be louder. not only louder daily but peak harder for comps. plus you can design a plug that slides in the middle of the port(make the port 3 sections where you can slide a port plug in the middle for daily and pull it for comps)

second two layers IS FINE. build a octagon shaped bracing like you would a octagon port. slide it over the subs. it does two things. acts live a wave guild to direct the rear wave to hit the back of the enclosure as far as the rear wall do THREE baffles and you want to sandwich them between the sides of the box no screw them INTO the sides.

I know what your thinking but i have 3 18s and i wanna keep them. i've tried going that route it NEVER works out ideally. if you really want to take a shot at some good numbers the 4 15s are much more ideal. and Id use some 15s that are highly efficient.

ill bet you may left nut even with a quad of 2 1/2" coil drivers you could break 155 legal and still have a GREAT daily driver..

the port should be as wide as the total width of the woods and no narrower than 1/8 the total length. for example if the subs are 48 inches from the edge to the edge make the port 48 inches wide and no less than 6" tall. right off the bat Id do 48x8 that way you can plug it and still have plenty of port area for daily with ONE the three chambers plugged it would give you 62in^2 for daily which is perfect most most driver up to 2kw a pop.

 
Before the meso's i had four hds315's in a 15 cu ft box tuned to 38hz. I sold them and bought the meso's because they have more cone area than four 15's. I know cone area isn't always king, the meso's are louder already and I dont even have my wall done right. So I'm going to stick with them. And plus i don't have tons of money to blow on some good 15's.....i sold my 15's for $500 and bought the mesos for $495 and reconed them for $425

 
HDSs are poop.decent for the money but poop

when you are trying to meter the idea is to pressurize the cabin and preferably load one side of the cabin. if you can't load the one side the idea is to pressure the cabin evenly and avoid cancellation. also you want to couple the rear and front wave. each which is 180 degrees out of phase so where your resonance frequency is you need the rear wave to travel 2x longer than hte front wave by calculating the 1/4 wave length you can get the distance the rear wave needs to travel at the dash where the meter is placed.

typically you have loading occurring when the drivers aren't very close together and have unequal compliance.

the 3 15s are more than likely louder not from cone area but just more raw motor strength ans less power compression.

if you design another enclosure i would try making a few face plates and trying different placement with the woofers and ports. Id start with keeping the drivers closest to the passengers side.

 
Recommended is 5 cu ft for each one. Csc_stang designed it for me. I trust his judgement lol. I added the third and fourth layers on the outside so it doesn't take away any extra cu ft.

 
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