los33
10+ year member
Car Audio G
You keep throwing all these idiotic advices out will be singing this tonightYou have some parameters on the subs?
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You keep throwing all these idiotic advices out will be singing this tonightYou have some parameters on the subs?
Thanks. Problem with 3 18's is you're shooting yourself in the foot by not being able to implement a proper port. Round port in general in a wall is impractical and won't get you enough port area.I really like the way you did your wall hispls....to me it looks really good. I didn't even think about putting 2x4's in the back like that....I'm going to do that for sure. And i would prefer to keep all three because i want more cone area. And I've never had three 18's before and my goal is to do atleast 150 on music....i assume that's very likely with my setup now. Well after i redo my wall that is. And yes my subs seem like they're bottoming out on the low notes....they dont hit very hard and they sound kinda hollowed out.
He seems to be either illiterate or just doesn't care or have enough self respect to use spell check. He has never posted a build worth noting or any competition results, nor has he contributed anything of worth here ever.Lol that's what I was thinking.....didn't know if papermaker was just joking or being serious.
Particle board + resin is as good as MDF + resin. No reason to use it though unless you can get it for free or stupid cheap.Wow just realized Im thinking particle board not ply. Total derp moment
20 cube. Less a proper port and less 2 cube per sheet of wood (you really need more layers!) and you're lucky to have enough to run two 18's.My dimensions are 41 wide x 25 deep x 35 tall...why do you say three 18's never work right?
It's not easy but the ports/sub layout is bad and top bottom back and baffle must be flexing like crazy. Even if you add layers/bracing AND seal it off, it's just not a good box period. This is Alex all over again, trying to shoehorn too much cone area in, then putting band-aids on something that is just terribly flawed from the start.i'd seal off first before tearing **** down. All these guys make it sound like its easy to just build a wall and demo'ing down and build another one like we got the spare time for that sh*t.
At best probably just take out the rear and add more depth to the box.
I agree with rebuild but only from the aspect of to much to fix with bandaids only to end with mediocre results, I am not even saying I know anything about how to design a box - I use cscstang for that hes the man for sure. But I am a carpenter and maybe you can find an older guy with some carpentry skills and put all these suggestions to work in a new box. What I do like is your ability to listen to suggestions and even some ribbing and still be very polite and courteous in your replies much like alex. I think you will go far youngin //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif good luck.It's not easy but the ports/sub layout is bad and top bottom back and baffle must be flexing like crazy. Even if you add layers/bracing AND seal it off, it's just not a good box period. This is Alex all over again, trying to shoehorn too much cone area in, then putting band-aids on something that is just terribly flawed from the start.
Mine is about 26 cube net. CS probably suggested round ports since you insisted on 3 subs and there's no better way to get you adequate port area. I'm very confident that you'd have far better results with two subs and a traditional slot port behind driver's side as big as you can get it. Or if you could swap them out for 3 15's which should fit along the bottom and have a big top port, shooting for 20 cube net then shrinking the corner opposite of the port to raise tuning or tighten it up as needed. You're in a rough spot with really wanting the 3 coils to hang with your power, but any way you slice it the port/subs placement options are just terrible in the space you have.You know I was thinking that 5 cubes was on the small side also. Wouldn't 8 cubes per sub be more optimal? And I know that I can do three 18's. I can make the box a little deeper, I was just trying to squeeze a tiny amount of space for my tool bag and a few other misc. things. I've got about 8 more inches in depth that I can spare. Why would csc_stang suggest the sonotubes opposed to a slot port? Hispls whats the dimensions on your wall? And how many cu ft is it? I want to compare lol. I'm going to message csc_stang and see if he would be willing to help me redesign it. And chaseinbass I'm not a full time carpenter but I am very knowledgeable when it comes to wood working. I can build **** near anything you show me a picture of. I just don't know how to design oddly shaped boxes lol. Yes the whole thing was flexing like crazy with just the single layer all the way around. It was pretty bad. The sound of the wood overpowered the bass lol. I should have enough for atleast two 18's. I used to have two sound qubed hdc3 18's and I had those in a 14 cu ft box tuned to 36hz and they were pretty **** loud. Oh and thank you chaseinbass for the compliment! I'm always open to trying different ways to do things. I enjoy the experience. I have an idea for a new box. I'll have to draw it out though because I haven't taught myself how to use sketchup yet lol. Jeff I'm going to start with your suggestion only because It's the easiest at the moment considering I double layered it yesterday and also got the front baffle cut out, Just have to see if it fits now and then seal everything off....You say that round ports are bad for walls, if you can still get the same amount of port area as a slot port wouldn't it be ok? Why aren't they as efficient as a slot port? Right now the ports are 10". When csc_stang designed it for me I asked him if I could use 12" tubes instead of 10" because I had to go through carter-waters to get the 10" tube. It was $30 for 12ft. And he told me that two 12" tubes was to much port area. Should I go ahead and try 12" since I have the upgraded recones? Thank you all of you for the input and suggestions!
Oh and if I add 5 more inches to the depth making it 30 inches deep that gives me 21 cu ft and if I do two 12" tubes that gives me 266 sq inches of port area. Will that be to much port area?
Show me a couple loud walls that use round ports. They're great in a box, in a wall you really want one big port.Also it's not like round ports **** ***Many people have had great results with them
I wouldn't have gone with the 1 sub on top and 2 on the bottom but there is only so much you can do to fit everything on a baffle
I like that idea Play and learn with this box and save money and build what you want. I find it much easier to be patient and take your time building when you already have something to listen to in your truck cuz it flat ***** with nothing listen too.Without tsps of these subs with the new recones it's going to be hard to say they need x amount of area per sub
Imo I would start over but it doesn't mean you have to today
You can get it playing and be in the low 150's right away, then plan and save for materials and do it right once everything is ready
Imo at this point if you do a rebuild you should build a shell (preferably steel cage) but 2-3 layers would do, as large as you can, then build your baffle and adjust your rear wall to get the air space you want
If you add in the airspace you will find it harder to add then subtract airspace
what i need a build log for? all my shits in may car and it sound awesome.Thanks. Problem with 3 18's is you're shooting yourself in the foot by not being able to implement a proper port. Round port in general in a wall is impractical and won't get you enough port area.
IMO you have just too many issues there to try to build from where you are and you should start over from scratch with a better plan before you throw good money after bad.. at this point it's a cheap learning experience.
He seems to be either illiterate or just doesn't care or have enough self respect to use spell check. He has never posted a build worth noting or any competition results, nor has he contributed anything of worth here ever.
Best to put him on ignore list along with spider monkey.
Particle board + resin is as good as MDF + resin. No reason to use it though unless you can get it for free or stupid cheap.
20 cube. Less a proper port and less 2 cube per sheet of wood (you really need more layers!) and you're lucky to have enough to run two 18's.
I don't believe for a minute that 5 cube is optimum volume.









