The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

I like that idea Play and learn with this box and save money and build what you want. I find it much easier to be patient and take your time building when you already have something to listen to in your truck cuz it flat ***** with nothing listen too.
Nope. You must resist. This will take every bit of will power you have but every minute and every penny you sink into what you have now is wasted. Plan some down time with no tunes. Take a week off from work or plan solid hours daily until everything is solid and 100% right. Trust me, you'll thank me later. You wanted do's and dont's

Don't rush it.

Don't half arse anything or cut corners

Don't throw good money after bad if some idea isn't working.

You said you have a stack of plywood already, right? That's half the cost there. Save up another 500$ for screws, glues, bondo, and cosmetic stuff and if you have 8 or 10 sheets of wood there you're ready to do it right and solid.

 
Nope. You must resist. This will take every bit of will power you have but every minute and every penny you sink into what you have now is wasted. Plan some down time with no tunes. Take a week off from work or plan solid hours daily until everything is solid and 100% right. Trust me, you'll thank me later. You wanted do's and dont's
Don't rush it.

Don't half arse anything or cut corners

Don't throw good money after bad if some idea isn't working.

You said you have a stack of plywood already, right? That's half the cost there. Save up another 500$ for screws, glues, bondo, and cosmetic stuff and if you have 8 or 10 sheets of wood there you're ready to do it right and solid.
Missed the part where he had a stack of plywood ? I agree just do it right !

 
Here's my idea....all input is welcome....the second picture is to show you the actual shape of the inside. And yes I realize the layers are off. I messed up the alignment lol....tell me if this will work or not as far as the construction of it....seal off the front, triple layered bottom, triple layered back, and for the sides since I can't get the wood to mold to the interior just let the interior act as the sides and seal up the back from the inside through the front. And if I need to subtract some cu ft I can use 2x4's and just add X amount of layers until it's right.





 
Missed the part where he had a stack of plywood ? I agree just do it right !
Page2 he said he has like 20 sheets.

Here's my idea....all input is welcome....the second picture is to show you the actual shape of the inside. And yes I realize the layers are off. I messed up the alignment lol....tell me if this will work or not as far as the construction of it....seal off the front, triple layered bottom, triple layered back, and for the sides since I can't get the wood to mold to the interior just let the interior act as the sides and seal up the back from the inside through the front. And if I need to subtract some cu ft I can use 2x4's and just add X amount of layers until it's right.



Better. What's your plan to adjust tuning or box volume after it's assembled?

 
Definitely need more baffles and thickness.

I'm running a single 18 and have 3 layer baffle. Box is single with bracing all over

I hope it all works out with the advice. Never done a wall or a 150+ myself

 
if you do like i told you you can save alot of woods and do double baffle. the loudest cars i've seen often did this including me.

it doesn't have to be but 4 or 6 inches deep takes up next to know room and braces the box 10x better than stupldly stacking baffles..

https://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.splbassx.com%2Fforums%2Fuploads%2Fpost-71856-1335350767.jpg&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.splbassx.com%2Fforums%2Findex.php%3Fshowtopic%3D11625&docid=QxfavAxE4Rl19M&tbnid=swJH-56k3vi1pM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwiTmqLa2MvTAhUs4YMKHUqrBssQMwgsKAswCw..i&w=1280&h=960&bih=950&biw=1920&q=octo%20port%20sub%20box&ved=0ahUKEwiTmqLa2MvTAhUs4YMKHUqrBssQMwgsKAswCw&iact=mrc&uact=8

put one like that around/behind each woofer. you should beable to use 3inche screw and screw the drivers into the baffle and into the brace/guide.

double the back wall with a **** load of threaded steel rods and square washers

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/07/070069ed-71f0-4f7f-b7b5-f2ba8e9236ed_1000.jpg

1/2 rod and don't forget the lock washers. lol

 
I completely agree 100% jeff and papermaker....ive used threaded rod when i had my 4 15's with a single layer all the way around and i got minimal flexing....oh and i had 45's in the corners also....jeff and hispls how much port area would you guys recommend i start out with? And how wide should the port be? Thank you for your input! I greatly appreciate it! I know i say that alot, but i want to make sure you guys know that!

 
I completely agree 100% jeff and papermaker....ive used threaded rod when i had my 4 15's with a single layer all the way around and i got minimal flexing....oh and i had 45's in the corners also....jeff and hispls how much port area would you guys recommend i start out with? And how wide should the port be? Thank you for your input! I greatly appreciate it! I know i say that alot, but i want to make sure you guys know that!
"minimal flexing" is the wrong answer. ANY flexing robs you of loads of output and any hope of good sound.

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/201691-jeep-cherokee-20000w-6th-order-6-12s-rebuild-from-160s-flat-wall/

This^^^ should be your benchmark for 2 18 build. I guarantee you won't do better with 3.

You cannot have to much port. Shrinking port is incredibly easy, making it bigger is a horror show.

 
Correct.....I'll have a back to it that will be sealed off as well....and if i need to i can add a layer or two on the port wall to change my tuning if need be, i dont see why it wouldn't work, and if it hasn't been done yet I'm going to try it and see what the outcome is....I'm never opposed to trying new things

 
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