The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

Like I said make the shell as big as you can and as strong as you can

Add the front baffle as thick as you can

Adjust the rear baffle for proper airspace

You could make the top bottom and sides all the way to the tail gate then the extra room back there will be closed off for the most part

And I would do 2 subs on the passenger side and one staggered in the middle

Make the port as large as you can then shrink it or just make a plug for it later

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok so i had the idea of just using the interior as the port/side of the box....will that work? It would make the port 12 inches wide and 44 inches tall

Fu ck this ****.....im getting no where....now i dont have a ******* box or wall....i need some help redesigning it with a slot port....****....i would use two but i just spent $500 on the subs and $425 on the recones so i want to use all three.....ive already wasted 6 fuc king sheets of wood so far......sorry just a little pissed off right now, im not getting anywhere fast

You tried to rush things. DO NOT RUSH IT!

Nevermind.....I figured everything out, i just had to sit down and plan everything out....i ripped everything out of the back and I'm starting over from nothing....i was trying to salvaged some of the wood ive already wasted but i couldn't....I'll be taking pictures as im building it. Actually how should i do the layout as far as placement? I'm doing three 2x12's on the floor for the frame.

Make sure you secure them solid to the vehicle. If the box moves you lose output and it could be fatal if you ever get in a wreck. Using 2 subs and having a spare isn't the end of the world. After you do your top, bottom, and sides use a big piece of cardboard to mock up the baffle and consider your options carefully.

 

[ferguson621]

Ok for the port since the wheel well is in the way i was thinking i can do 10 inches wide x 30 inches tall x 30 inches deep for a 35hz tuning and that will give me 300 square inches of port aread......your right i was trying to rush.....you know i never thought of having the third one as a backup.....but ive never had three 18's with this much power....granted 8000 watts isnt that much compared to most of you....its alot to me at the moment. That's another reason i want to use all three and because i have D1 coils i dont want to wire to 4 ohms with just two cause then they would only see roughly 3000 watts after box rise and voltage drop

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Build the brace/guide as I suggested. No flex with 2 layers and it will keep them from loading.

Build a port in sections that you can plug to tune low for daily.

Before you decide to tune run a sweep with one in a sealed box with the wall in so you can plot cabin gain!

Find the distance between the woofers and the location of the mic. Once you know that make the rear wave travel 2x that distance!

Brace with steel rods and flatwashers

Do this and you win..

 

[ferguson621]

Gotcha....so how do i build the port in sections to be able to plug it to tune lower? A visual would be more helpful than explaining it lol. Hispls i will definitely plan very carefully this time for sure!

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

what i need a build log for? all my shits in may car and it sound awesome.




















 

---------- Post added at 07:23 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:22 PM ----------

 

 

Old ass fucking pics. Plus one's photoshopped.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok for the port since the wheel well is in the way i was thinking i can do 10 inches wide x 30 inches tall x 30 inches deep for a 35hz tuning and that will give me 300 square inches of port aread......your right i was trying to rush.....you know i never thought of having the third one as a backup.....but ive never had three 18's with this much power....granted 8000 watts isnt that much compared to most of you....its alot to me at the moment. That's another reason i want to use all three and because i have D1 coils i dont want to wire to 4 ohms with just two cause then they would only see roughly 3000 watts after box rise and voltage drop

Gotcha....so how do i build the port in sections to be able to plug it to tune lower? A visual would be more helpful than explaining it lol. Hispls i will definitely plan very carefully this time for sure!

You're putting the cart before the horse. Get your top bottom and sides secure and rock solid, then mock up what space you have with cardboard box and see what options you have.

Your amp is 2 ohm version? Were you running it 1.5 ohm?

I think your best option if you insist on using all 3 would be 4th order bandpass, you'll still want to do up your sides top and bottom. And you'll want to figure out specs on your sub to see if it'll work. I can loan you my DATS to test if you pay shipping both ways.

Oh, and before you get the sides up, plasti dip the side windows so wood doesn't show from the outside.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Why plasti dip instead of limo tint?

 

[tymoto21 10+ year member]

He only has another 8" to use and only has like 15cf right now

No way in hell he is fitting a 4th for 3 18's

Build your shell as big as you can

Then figure out your cf and decide on baffle

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Old ass fucking pics. Plus one's photoshopped.

dude no of those pics are photoshopped. KMSLROFLMAO.

photoshoped. OH MY

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

that old school 9515D did 153+ in SS 1-2

 

[ferguson621]

Ok thank you hispls and tymoto.... I needed some guidance as far as what i need to do next...do you think if i used just 2x4's anr filled in the gaps with glue it would be just as strong as two layers of plywood? Because it's really hard to bend a 2x4 as opposed to a sheet of wood. Plastidip is easier to paint on than tinting the windows and its darker because its paint and not film...and no my amp is the 1 ohm version. And i know not to run it under 1 ohm, i made sure i did my research on that lol.... here's what i have done so far.....

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok thank you hispls and tymoto.... I needed some guidance as far as what i need to do next...do you think if i used just 2x4's anr filled in the gaps with glue it would be just as strong as two layers of plywood? Because it's really hard to bend a 2x4 as opposed to a sheet of wood. Plastidip is easier to paint on than tinting the windows and its darker because its paint and not film...and no my amp is the 1 ohm version. And i know not to run it under 1 ohm, i made sure i did my research on that lol.... here's what i have done so far.....

I'd have done the back last. 2x4 should have been done the long way for strength, I'd like to see one or two layers of ply on that back. You really underestimate how much pressure you'll be building up in this box IF YOU DO IT RIGHT.

If you have 1 ohm amp why not run your subs at 1 ohm?

 

[ferguson621]

Lol i could.....but I always seem to fry the coils when i give my subs more than rated power even if i use a multi meter and my oscope....i dont understand how people can give a 1500 rms sub 3000 watts daily and not fry the coils. How do you get the mounting holes on the baffle to line up on all the layers? I have a jasper jig but my cutting bit is only long enough for one sheet at a time. Ok I'll do two layers on the back, and i can switch the 2x4's and make them vertical. And yes i have no clue how much pressure they'll output ha. But im very eager to find out. Ive sat in a crx with two team rockford 15's and four memphis 2500's and it did 155 legal sealed

 

[los33 10+ year member]

As far as the port goes you can make a large slot port and use custom made bolt on ports with wood to change frequencies on the fly.

I forgot who else used 2x4s for an entire she'll then placed 3/4 plywood on the inside and it came out pretty strong with no need for double baffles all around.

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