Subs not hitting pls help

[Bagged04]

Yes the subs are dual 2 ohm, wired to 2 ohms in the box. I did check with a dmm when I originally put the box together. I figured I'd need a bigger alternator. What I'm confused about is why when I wired 1 sub to 1 ohm and put it on a kicker 1200 it hit. Now that I have both subs re wired to 2 ohms and my 3000d in the truck they dont hit. Car stereos is rather new to me as iv always had cars and wanted to go faster so performance and weight reduction were key. Ie no systems bc of weight. That and sportbikes dont have systems either. Hince the reason I'm here asking. Lack of knowledge about stereos yes it's called ignorance. There's an old saying you can educate the ignorant you can't fix stupid.

 

[ylpkm]

Have you made sure the subwoofer output is on, on the hu?

play some bassy music/tone and put the DMM to ac volts and tell us what the ac volts is reading.

also define not hitting? do you actually get bass output? video would be nice to see whats happening.

 

[Massive spl]

Are they wired in phase?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Are they wired in phase?

I already asked. H has no clue.

Just like people that post up I got this sub or amp. What should I do with it and what is it, blab blah blah....makes me wonder, did you even research bro?!

 

[Bagged04]

I'm not exactly sure what u mean by phase, but if you go here http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurationsm.asp?Q=2&I=22#results

There wired exactly as shown for a 2 ohm load. Yes I actually did research all this and called companies directly. The only thing I did do apparently wrong is put them in to small of a box and added poly fill to it bc according to the web the poly fill slows down the movement of air in the box as to make the sub think its in a bigger box. I hoped it would still work fairly decent trying to keep my back seat for my kids. But I know I'm supposed to already know every thing right, Not. Kinda like u did with ur first system right. And people wonder why the car scene ain't what it used to be and is turning into who has more money. (Take a note from the minitruck scene it's not what u buy it's what u build and actually get help from even strangers when thy need it, who gives a sh** how much money u have u gonna take it with u when u pass on, no). It's crap people aren't given a chance to learn asking for help without being criticized for trying something out. But I'll be sure to not answer or to criticize u when u don't know how to build a motor or transmission from scratch or how to dyno tune a obd2 computer. And to everyone trying to actually help I apologize, and will get those readings as soon as work and family time permit it.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm not exactly sure what u mean by phase.

Try wiring one subwoofer out of phase, Pretend the pos is negative and the negative is positive for one sub and keep the other sub wired as is and wire them normally. If you get a lot louder, it could have been a slight factory defect or you could have wired it wrong in the first place.

 

[Bagged04]

I will try that tomorrow and post the results. Thanks

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

yeah same thing happened with my DC audio level 5 18s, Barely made any bass no matter how hard it was pushed and the cones were moving like crazy. Wired one out of phase and boom, it was hella loud.

 

[Massive spl]

I can take a battery from your cordless drill and touch the speaker wire to the pos and Neg and the cone should either push out or svck in and then do that to the other Woofer and make sure they are both going the same way. Make sure they in phase with each other.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Run them at .5 ohms then

\
Yep. On a stock alternator and only 1 battery. You must be really optimistic about the ability of his "20f capacitor". Seriously, if you're not going to offer to repair, replace, or handle warranty when some rookie breaks his amp that's really ****** advice to throw out.

I can take a battery from your cordless drill and touch the speaker wire to the pos and Neg and the cone should either push out or svck in and then do that to the other Woofer and make sure they are both going the same way. Make sure they in phase with each other.

Just a flashlight battery or 9 volt will work here as well. Simply pull the speaker leads out of the amp terminals and touch the two sides of the battery to the two leads and see which way both speakers pop in or out. They should move the same distance and in the same direction.

I'm going to guess that the box is a huge problem. That's simply not enough port area or box volume for a pair of 12's.

That box should probably be scrapped or build a new baffle and try some 8's in it or just a single 12. Personally I wouldn't even try smaller subs in it since that port is just tiny I'd worry if it would even perform properly for smaller subs, or what other problems it has.

Poly-fill isn't the silver bullet to make subs work in half the volume they need. It can flatten out peaks in frequency response (like a bigger box would) but it won't give you the extra output/efficiency. Generally if you're not building a transmission line or have some other compelling reason to use batting it's a band aid that's inadequate to fix a far bigger problem.

Lastly, I think OP rather walked into it by claiming he tested the subs being 1 ohm, then reneged and claimed they were dual 2 ohm. WHICH IS IT!?!?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

What you guys are telling him to check is polarity, not phase. Positive goes to the red terminals, negative to the black terminals.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

I do understand a stock electrical. Yes and I know he won't be able to run his amp like that for long periods of time too loud but he's asking why isn't the subs hitting ! This could rule out if he's getting enough power from the amp or not I do realize it can be a number of things causing the power loss 3k needs at least 2 batteries and a bigger alt. 0 gauge wires and a big 3 But even if he does this. It still could be the box to. It was just a suggestion to rule out a problem

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

What you guys are telling him to check is polarity, not phase. Positive goes to the red terminals, negative to the black terminals.

polarity affects phase too, they are directly related. It does happen where a pair of subs will have wierd polarities and when wired together will cause phase cancellation even if you wired it right. Wiring one out of phase actually helped a few local setups that ran into similar problems. Its mainly a manufacture defect when that happens.