...and your DC low voltage landscape lighting //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifb/c u only need it for ur subs,
...and your DC low voltage landscape lighting //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
There it is! Banana plugs could very well be your problem. If you are using those Alpine ones for jumpers and wiring to a certain load, pull the splines out on them with a tiny jewelers screwdriver as you want a TIGHT fit, but I don't like plugs for a reason. Or, rather much better yet, use more cable instead eg: say you have two DVC 4ohm drivers, and you want to run 1ohm by paralleling each driver's coils and then both drivers, use four runs of cable from the enclosure terminals (only if it is up to par on handling the power, if not go directly) or amplifier terminals. The idea is to split up the current upon more surface area of cable essentially. When running a decent amount of power, you want the most direct runs and more cable to reduce heat build up and voltage drop, not that it's a big deal with the output side, the latter applies more to power runs. You do not want to switch mediums that the power is running through though either way. So, even if you have some quality Knu cable, properly installed into your banana plugs, that still doesn't mean that it'll take the power especially if loose. Bad connection = heat.
Sorry I sense some brevity in this post, I'm paying attention to a ridiculously long Summer class and surfing forums. Ah, I can do this, just a bit to go, four hours has almost passed bysounds good. just to be clear, only remove the jumpers when you have a speaker wire for each voice coil. It may be obvious to some, but not everyone.OK. UPDATE-Basic Car Audio Electronics
Scroll down to section 16. Wire
The very first calculator is for speaker wire. Just need to know power output per channel, wire gauge, wire length, and impedance and it will tell you if it's adequate.
I put all 10 gauge knukonceptz wiring for the entire subwoofer wiring setup 2 dual voice 4 ohm subs wired to 1 ohm with the jumper cables being 10 gauge as well, and the wires from the sub right to the amp directly without an enclosure connector.
playing jay Z - CROWN- or any bass heavy song on level 30/40 my sub gets SUPER HOT and i smell it burning a little bit.
Any ideas?
Crescendo bc2000 amp on around 1700 watts (from gain with DMM) in a 40hz ported box by mobile enclosures. Now, im not sure if its because the box is VERY small that it is suffocating it or making it work EXTRA hard to make it make power.
Any ideas guys?
this is the box
...and your DC low voltage landscape lighting //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
There it is! Banana plugs could very well be your problem. If you are using those Alpine ones for jumpers and wiring to a certain load, pull the splines out on them with a tiny jewelers screwdriver as you want a TIGHT fit, but I don't like plugs for a reason. Or, rather much better yet, use more cable instead eg: say you have two DVC 4ohm drivers, and you want to run 1ohm by paralleling each driver's coils and then both drivers, use four runs of cable from the enclosure terminals (only if it is up to par on handling the power, if not go directly) or amplifier terminals. The idea is to split up the current upon more surface area of cable essentially. When running a decent amount of power, you want the most direct runs and more cable to reduce heat build up and voltage drop, not that it's a big deal with the output side, the latter applies more to power runs. You do not want to switch mediums that the power is running through though either way. So, even if you have some quality Knu cable, properly installed into your banana plugs, that still doesn't mean that it'll take the power especially if loose. Bad connection = heat.
Sorry I sense some brevity in this post, I'm paying attention to a ridiculously long Summer class and surfing forums. Ah, I can do this, just a bit to go, four hours has almost passed bysounds good. just to be clear, only remove the jumpers when you have a speaker wire for each voice coil. It may be obvious to some, but not everyone.Basic Car Audio Electronics
Scroll down to section 16. Wire
The very first calculator is for speaker wire. Just need to know power output per channel, wire gauge, wire length, and impedance and it will tell you if it's adequate.no. these are rated 1000 rms these are the latest version type r's from 2012. the 2011 type r was rated 600 watts rms but new ones 1000rmsAren't Type R's only rated for like 500-600? You're giving them 850 each? Maybe you're just overpowering them. I remember my R's back in the day used to get stinky on just 1200w.
nah. nothing is wrong with the subs they play normal. just sometimes when playing REAL BASS HEAVY songs i could smell it while playing at like volume 25-30/40Have you ohm-ed out your voice coils individually to see if you have a shorted VC?
The box is too small and tuned too high, and you're probably sending a clipped-all-to-hell signal. When playing low notes on 40hz tuning you're going to beat the hell out of your subs
Also I got a bunch of 10ga OFC speaker wire for about 45 cents a foot from Knu a while back, but I'm not sure if it's still on sale.
Clipity clipity = smelly subs.
That would probably solve a lot of your problems. Those Type Rs will take 1k of clean power no problem in the right enclosure, but playing under tuning or sending them distorted power won't end wellso bigger box tuned 34-36hz plus oscope calibration is what i need?