Sub swap in factory system

[sam_b03 10+ year member]

I'm have a 15 jeep grand Cherokee w/ 9 ch alpine system. I have replaced the fronts and pretty happy with factory power. I want more from the sub. Factory is 250w at 2ohm with a 8in sub in about .6cubes. I have an old idq12 v2 rated for 300w that should be fine with an 88db efficiency to be fiberglassed in to the factory box. Problem is the factory wiring is 2 leads per voice coil. My speaker dual 4 ohm. Is there a way I can wire it up to get 2ohms without frying the factory amp? I know about the parallel or series wiring to change the load, but idont know if it's safe with the factory wiring. Not sure if the voice could are getting power from same source or if each lead is powering the vc independently.

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[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

It's not really 250 watts. That's max, made up ratings.

 

[youdoofus]

I'm have a 15 jeep grand Cherokee w/ 9 ch alpine system. I have replaced the fronts and pretty happy with factory power. I want more from the sub. Factory is 250w at 2ohm with a 8in sub in about .6cubes. I have an old idq12 v2 rated for 300w that should be fine with an 88db efficiency to be fiberglassed in to the factory box. Problem is the factory wiring is 2 leads per voice coil. My speaker dual 4 ohm. Is there a way I can wire it up to get 2ohms without frying the factory amp? I know about the parallel or series wiring to change the load, but idont know if it's safe with the factory wiring. Not sure if the voice could are getting power from same source or if each lead is powering the vc independently.

i bypassed the stock sub in my old 03 Maxima by going to the junkyard and buying the plug that went into the factory bose unit found out which wires were audio + and -, power (not used) and ground (also not used) and remote turn on. Ran power from the battery, and ground to the chassis, used the remote wire to the PPI amp i was using and put some RCA ends on the audio leads and it worked pretty darn well for several years