Thanks for all your help on this post.I like headroom with wattage. I've seen way more underpowered system blow up than overpowered ones.
3000 watt amp? I'd look at 2500-2800 watt subs total
1200 watt amp? I'd look at 1000w subs
10,000 watt amp? I'd look for 8000w subs total
That sounds good to me. Any site suggestions for purchase?I say 2 GCON 15s with D4 coils wired to 1 ohm on the Smart 3. I've heard plenty of people say the SSAs can handle above their RMS ratings, and with box rise they won't get the full 3k watts anyway.
I don't know if you are doing box designing at the moment but I may need something drawn up, if you are.I disagree with box rise and that whole concept of how that works. The resistance is fluid. You have no idea what your rise is playing music. The resistance is changing 100's of times per second, depending on the location of the coil relative to the flux field of the magnet. Switching between notes is going to rise differently than a tone. For daily, there is almost zero benefit to designing around rise.
I ordered from store.soundsolutionsaudio.com and it got to me pretty quick.That sounds good to me. Any site suggestions for purchase?
So it'd be better for him to get 2 D2 coils wired at 2 ohms to be easier on his electrical system?Nominal resistinace in ohms seems to be simply the wire resisitance. you can actually have a really low resistance potetionally when a sub is at peak xmax in one direction and the suspension pulls it back down. And in all reality, higher average resistance loads on the amp will make the amp more efficient and run cooler, which can often times makes the system play better. I've hooked up a fi q 15 at 1 ohm vs 4 ohm in my f150. only had it all stock electrical + a batcap 2000 in the back. The sub was literally almost as loud at 4 ohms as it was at one. That's 1200w vs 450w on my amp. There's a balance in electrical systems that's important to find. I had 380 ah worth of batteries in my exploder and a 300 amp EA alt charging @ 15v. All this for a 200 w x 2 channel and 2 1200w sub amps bridged. I was able to run my subs at 1.4 strapped vs the rated 2 ohms. When you start doing that, running low ohms without a very hefty charging system and batteries, you can get wild peaks because the sub resistance at certain notes will be way louder because you're already struggling to keep voltage and when that notes hits and the resistance drops at that note, it puts more power through the sub. But when your box is musical oriented with a smaller port and it's designed for a wide bandwidth, that more even resistance keeps the sub voltages more in line across your frequency bandwidth. My 2 18's had an insane peak around like 65 hz where I would drop into the 11 volt range at full tilt, even with all of that electrical. it was loud as ****. Had to do with my low tuning and the fact the box was sort of larger than it needed to be for extending up that high. So on my 9887, I did a like light -6 or -12 db per octave crossover at 50 hz, so it would soften everything above 50 hz a little, and wouldn't rape my equipment playing over 60 hz. Worked out really well actually.
I don't know if you are doing box designing at the moment but I may need something drawn up, if you are.
So it'd be better for him to get 2 D2 coils wired at 2 ohms to be easier on his electrical system?
Now I'm pretty stupid and I'm sure this has come up a million times. The system will be just Daily/Showing off so what is the size I should go for? I'm really just wanting something bigger than 12 since it's not a common size in my neck of the woods. Also the upgrade options on the SSA page. Is there anything I should go for or not?I still vote for 2 Gcon 15s in that 06 Tahoe, That smart3 should be just enough to flex a pair of these nice.
Nice and simple too, ported subs up/port back