Sub Clipping

[big scott]

I currently have that on the setting that makes my subs sound the loudest. I believe it is at 0.2v. So I should turn that to around the middle.


How would I find out if I did my sub wiring wrong. I followed this for each channel: http://i.imgur.com/C66lpVA.png

I hooked up my voltmeter and the subs read (separately) 2 ohms when wired as shown above.

if its not loud try the gain half way. but you should set your gain by dmm .

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

How would I find out if I did my sub wiring wrong. I followed this for each channel: http://i.imgur.com/C66lpVA.png

If they're out of phase they would still measure at 2 ohms. But when one channel pushes the sub out the other would be pulling in giving you a net displacement of zero and very little output.

Since your amp has two phase controls you can start there (instead of tracing wires). A 180 degree difference in phase is the same as reversing a -/+ speaker connection.

Turn the gain down before you check them -- at least 12 o'clock, if not lower.

You can play music while you're doing this, but do it at low volume.

Most likely, you're going to want both phase controls at zero. Start there. If one is at zero and one is at 180 - there's your problem. Set them both to zero and you should get a huge improvement.

If they ARE both at zero (or 180) make them opposite. If that helps you have one of the +/-'s backwards at the amp. You can either leave it like that, or fix the wiring mistake and set both phase controls to zero.

 

[bs199sg]

If they're out of phase they would still measure at 2 ohms. But when one channel pushes the sub out the other would be pulling in giving you a net displacement of zero and very little output.
Since your amp has two phase controls you can start there (instead of tracing wires). A 180 degree difference in phase is the same as reversing a -/+ speaker connection.

Turn the gain down before you check them -- at least 12 o'clock, if not lower.

You can play music while you're doing this, but do it at low volume.

Most likely, you're going to want both phase controls at zero. Start there. If one is at zero and one is at 180 - there's your problem. Set them both to zero and you should get a huge improvement.

If they ARE both at zero (or 180) make them opposite. If that helps you have one of the +/-'s backwards at the amp. You can either leave it like that, or fix the wiring mistake and set both phase controls to zero.

Ill give it a try. Here is a picture of my settings on my amp. Idk if it helps, but if you see any settings I have wrong, or should look closer at, then please say so.

http://i.imgur.com/UKlHQxL.jpg

 

[dbjunior 10+ year member]

This is a class a/b amp it's been tested to do very close to rated but is only 60% efficient that's almost 300amps of current draw at full power. I'm very surprised it has not caught fire yet.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Ill give it a try. Here is a picture of my settings on my amp. Idk if it helps, but if you see any settings I have wrong, or should look closer at, then please say so.
http://i.imgur.com/UKlHQxL.jpg

the crossover frequency switch needs to be set to x1, not x10. With the switch at x10 you're at ~900hz instead of the ~90 you should be shooting for. The sub is trying to play midrange which will sound terrible and keep it from doing what it's capable of down low.

And the crossover frequency dial should be set at 9-10 o'clock (looks pretty close).

Phase controls appear to be both at 0. Change the left to 180 and see what you get.

This is a class a/b amp it's been tested to do very close to rated but is only 60% efficient that's almost 300amps of current draw at full power. I'm very surprised it has not caught fire yet.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Power vs heat sink area probably isn't much different than any other a/b.

It'll burn the alt up faster than a less powerful amp -- that's about it.