Speaker Replacements for 2002 Subaru with aftermarket headunit

[heartbraden]

2002 Subaru Impreza 2.5TS (hatchback) -- stock speakers are muddy and flat, I need an upgrade for tech death metal and similar, don't need it crazy loud but would appreciate more clarity and a more powerful bass feeling. Not sure which kinds of speakers I should be looking at. I've got an aftermarket head unit in it (Boss BV800ACP) but everything else is untouched. Budget of 150-300, trying to stay lower but if it's truly worth it I could be convinced. I'm not sure what price brackets make a big difference so that's part of what I'm needing help with. I'm in the USA and will be installing it myself. Thanks guys!

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[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Sorry, fat fingers - see the next post.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Your original request will most likely leave you wanting. Here is a complete budget upgrade that should make you quite happy.

Recoil DI550.4 Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier, 1,040 Watts, 2-4 Ohm Stable, Mosfet Power Supply, Bridgeable



https://www.recoilaudio.com/product...-4-ohm-stable-mosfet-power-supply-bridgeable/

$84.99

Skar Audio 4 Gauge OFC Complete Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit, SKAR4ANL-OFC​

Amazon product ASIN B075K326XP


$54.39

The 2nd RCA connection that you’ll need. skar audio 17-foot 2-channel twisted pair rca interconnect cable

Amazon product ASIN B07TBS624D
$10.19

The extra speaker wire you’ll need. Bullz Audio BPES16.25 25' True 16 Gauge AWG Car Home Audio Speaker Wire Cable Spool (Clear Red/)​

Amazon product ASIN B0149VCC10
$6.99

BOJACK 60 Amp 32 VDC ANL Blade Fuse for car Audio and Video System(Pack of 3 pcs)​

Amazon product ASIN B08JPH6Q5H
$6.99

5.25” front door components. NVX VSP525KIT​

750W Peak (250W RMS) 5.25" V-Series 2-Way Component Speaker System with 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters



https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...R0TgWHNDW8In_FIWY65kAlJjKEt3TkyhoCH0IQAvD_BwE

$99.99

Matching (type) coaxial rear door speakers

NVX VSP4 450W Peak (150W RMS) 4" V-Series 2-Way Coaxial Car Speakers with Silk Dome Tweeters​

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-71950-NVX-VSP4.html​

$49.99

$313.53 plus tax.

 

[Firewalker]

You don't need to run individual wires to each set of doors. That is what Stinger 9 Wire is for. You run it to behind the aftermarket head unit, you wire into the speaker wires on the harness that is plugged into the oem plug i.e instead of connecting them to the after market head unit you use the stinger or metra 9 wire wire plus it comes with a remote turn on wire built into the casing.

Also there is better stuff the skar a lot better. And those fuses you put up are also junk quality. Get some from Sky High Car audio or GP Car Audio.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

You don't need to run individual wires to each set of doors. That is what Stinger 9 Wire is for. You run it to behind the aftermarket head unit, you wire into the speaker wires on the harness that is plugged into the oem plug i.e instead of connecting them to the after market head unit you use the stinger or metra 9 wire wire plus it comes with a remote turn on wire built into the casing.

Also there is better stuff the skar a lot better. And those fuses you put up are also junk quality. Get some from Sky High Car audio or GP Car Audio.

What are you talking about Willis? You do have to run wire from the AMP that I listed to the speakers. The BOSS HU has all the needed RCA's preamp connections to connect to the 4 channel amplifier listed. I always replace OEM and leave that stuff intact in the event I pull the new equipment out if I sell the car. Junk fuses? They work for me fine. But okay, splurge on the $15 ones that are probably the same build house Chinese fuses rebranded by Skar or someone else. This kit is fine, good quallity 100% OFC wire that i have personally used to wire p my grandsons 2015 honda fit toan aftermarket sub amplifier. Are there better ones out there, sure. Are you going to get anything with that more expensive wiring kit, not so much.

Me thinks you missed the link to the aftermarket amp, the rest of your response does not comport with what I provided in the way of an overall upgrade. This is a great upgrade for the money, not sure why you would be hat’n on it. Complete, decent quality and only $14 over the stated budget? Take a few; put a different set up together that you think is going to outperform this for the same price that includes a 4 channel amp, 4awg OFC wiring kit, 60A ANL fuse, the additional RCA's not included in this wiring kit (two sets total however that looks), the extra OFC speaker wire, 5.25" compennts up front that have seperate woofers, (silk)tweeters and xovers, rear 4" coaxilas that also have the same woofer type and tweeters, just intergrated as a coaxial instead of compnents, all in a package for less than $315.00. That's a GREAT deal any day of the week and twice on Sundays!

 

[Firewalker]

You don't need to run new wires to each door on a 4 channel amp that does 100x4 at 4 ohms or even like mine which was setup at 150 watts at 2 ohm at one point. They make oem speaker adapters that plug right into the oem connectors that then have spade connections on them that you can use or cut off and then solder to the new speakers. No sense in running all new speaker wire when you can do that for 20 some feet of 9 wire wire which is 20-25 bucks which includes the remote turn on wire as well.

Those fuses I've tried before. I had nothing but issue after issue so yeah I think they are garbage, one set was so bad it caused nothing but a high pitch sound. I replaced with the GP and no issues, I tried to go cheap and it failed me so hence why I think they are garbage. It was when I was upgrading amplifiers and changed out the Stinger 300s to a 400 they had. Put in that GP and bam no more high pitch sound. And no Sky High and GP doesn't use the same buildhouses as that place.


Amazon product ASIN B004H1KAMQ
It works really simple you connect those speaker wires from the 9 wire wire to the aftermarket harness going that plugs into the oem harness. Does the same thing, isn't a pita to run and you don't have to run 4 different wires to each door and is 100 times easier as well. Anything built in the last 25 years has 18 gauge wire in it usually and that works fine for 100-150 watts easily.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Cool, well the wire I suggested is 16awg OFC. It’s decent but yeah, that option you show is pretty cool too. The main reason I use extra wire is to preserve the original wiring, that’s why. The equipment is pretty sold, great amp and the NVX speakers are pretty darn good performers. So, with your wiring and the equipment, better fuses and what not, still a nice system upgrade.

 

[Firewalker]

I get that but you don't destroy any of the oem stuff. Not with the aftermarket speaker plugin's and with using a wiring harness that you need for the aftermarket heat unit you just don't connect the speaker wires is all you connect them to the 9 wire wire. Makes it very easy and is ofc as well. I have it in mine and it made the install 100 times easier by far. Only set of wires I have run is for my tweeters as I am going active again instead of passive otherwise I wouldn't need those even.

Impreza's are a pita to work on to begin with. I know a couple guys at DIYMA did custom pods and what not for theirs to put in 8" mid-bass setups. Anything that makes it easier on those is a good thing. They stuffed so much in that little a$$ car it isn't funny. Buddy had one and damn what a pita it was to work on and in the engine bay ugh even worse.

NVX makes decent speakers for the money and the amplifiers do rated as well which is always good.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I get that but you don't destroy any of the oem stuff. Not with the aftermarket speaker plugin's and with using a wiring harness that you need for the aftermarket heat unit you just don't connect the speaker wires is all you connect them to the 9 wire wire. Makes it very easy and is ofc as well. I have it in mine and it made the install 100 times easier by far. Only set of wires I have run is for my tweeters as I am going active again instead of passive otherwise I wouldn't need those even.

Impreza's are a pita to work on to begin with. I know a couple guys at DIYMA did custom pods and what not for theirs to put in 8" mid-bass setups. Anything that makes it easier on those is a good thing. They stuffed so much in that little a$$ car it isn't funny. Buddy had one and damn what a pita it was to work on and in the engine bay ugh even worse.

NVX makes decent speakers for the money and the amplifiers do rated as well which is always good.

Yeah, no, sorry, I see now where it talks about tapping in, I understand that. NVX, good bang for the buck and that recoil, good reviews from reputable Dyno test YouTubers, Wiliston and others, it’s all good!

 

[heartbraden]

That's definitely on the higher end of my budget but your excitement kinda sold me on it... I'm gonna sound real stupid here probably but I'm 100% new to car audio so I'll ask anyway: would this setup sound as good as something like a Logitech Z623 that's connected to the headphone jack on my TV? (I ask because that's my benchmark for "sounds good", sorry if it's a ridiculous question).
My only other real question is without any car audio (or audio at all) experience (but good with building computers and similar) would I realistically be able to install all of that myself or would I need some help from a specialist? Thanks again for your help, I feel like I'm gonna get a lot more bang for my buck with something like this.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Well, using my HD card and my Focal open back headphones, I can understand the question; you would be hard-pressed to recreate headphone imaging in a car, at any price, period. The upgrade would definitely improve the sound in a big way, pretty night and day over the OEM setup, even with an aftermarket HU. As for the install, that’s a question you’d be the one best to answer. Most of it is on YouTube, the rest is relative to your mechanical prowess. I’ve done plenty of computer builds, not quite the same. My suggestion involves rewiring the speakers too (removin the panels, running wire); the other suggestion here indicates that is simplified using the harness they posted a link to. If it works as he suggest, would simplify things as well as you're still going to need to pull the HU. Th
at leaves the connections to the HU as you would still need to run a lead from the HU’s remote turn on to the amp (since you have to pull the HU anyway, or you could have just used an ignition lead from the fuse box) to run the RCA’s to that amp. The recoil amp's got a pretty small footprint, should fit under one of the seats? If you know how to mount the fuse 18” from the battery and drill through the fire wall or use existing ports of entry( that's what she said) and how to ground the amp (if under the seat, usually directly to the seat mounting bolt), not very difficult at all. Experinced,2-4 hours, not so much, plan on taking a day off.

 

[Firewalker]

That 9 wire wire includes a remote turn on wire hence one reason why it works so good. I have 9 wire wire in mine now and it works exactly as I described it and works great. I had 150 watts with 2 ohm speakers at one point before swapping stuff out for better speakers and no issues no overheating nothing. Perfect clean sound.

I've built computers since 1985 and no installing a car stereo is different.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

That 9 wire wire includes a remote turn on wire hence one reason why it works so good. I have 9 wire wire in mine now and it works exactly as I described it and works great. I had 150 watts with 2 ohm speakers at one point before swapping stuff out for better speakers and no issues no overheating nothing. Perfect clean sound.

I've built computers since 1985 and no installing a car stereo is different.

Nice. So just pulling HU. use that setup and run the RCA's. I like it!

 

[Firewalker]

Yeah it really is slick tbh. Stinger came out with it first iirc then metra and a couple others decided to do it as well. And its OFC 18 gauge so it can handle that kind of wattage. I mean obviously more wattage and I would run wires and since I am going active here shortly whenever I can get around to installing the tweeter pods that I just painted to match the rest of the interior. I ran those wires separate since I run the rear coaxial 6x8 RF off the DEH-80PRS as no one ever sits back there except a couple times a year so no need for more then that not when the fronts are so loud as it is.

I even ran the rca's next to it as that 9 wire wire is shielded really well. For 20-25 bucks for 20 feet of it, it really is hard to beat for a quick easy install.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I own the same HU, That Pio HU is the bomb!