Speaker Level Inputs vs Line Level Converter??

[NOLAguy]

I have a 2009 Ford F-150 with factory HU. I just replaced the factory speakers with (4) Rockford Fosgate Punch P1683 6" x 8" three-ways. I quickly realized that I need more power to drive the speakers with my factory HU. Now, I'm just wondering if I should buy an amp with Speaker Level Inputs, or just buy line level converters? Is there a difference in sound quality?

This is my first time installing an amp, and I almost went with Best Buy until they quoted me the price for installation. Any other tips for a first-timer?

Thanks!

JP

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[Korkor]

Are you wanting to keep the factory head unit? My advice would be to get a 2 0r 4 channel amp and go with line level converters.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

always go for an amp with high level inputs when dealing with OEM integration. external LOC's can generate noise and ground loops - avoid them whenever possible. besides, they are extra cost and wiring hassle that - spend that money on a better amp.

also look for an amp with an auto turn-on feature so you don't need to find a remote turn-on at the factory HU.

I know Kicker, Phoenix Gold, and JL Audio have amps with both these features. I'm sure there are others.

 

[NOLAguy]

Yes, I'm keeping my factory HU. I was thinking of buying the JL Audio XD700/5 5-Channel amp with wired-remote. Crutchfield told me to use the speaker-level inputs on the amp. But, the install guys at Best Buy told me to use Line Level Converters because the sound quality will be better.

JP

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

Yes, I'm keeping my factory HU. I was thinking of buying the JL Audio XD700/5 5-Channel amp with wired-remote. Crutchfield told me to use the speaker-level inputs on the amp. But, the install guys at Best Buy told me to use Line Level Converters because they wanted to sell them to me.
JP

fixed

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

The guys installing at Best Buy were baggin your groceries last week.

Good idea to just do it yourself.

and keep_hope_alive knows it all, listen to him.

 

[NOLAguy]

always go for an amp with high level inputs when dealing with OEM integration. external LOC's can generate noise and ground loops - avoid them whenever possible. besides, they are extra cost and wiring hassle that - spend that money on a better amp.
also look for an amp with an auto turn-on feature so you don't need to find a remote turn-on at the factory HU.

I know Kicker, Phoenix Gold, and JL Audio have amps with both these features. I'm sure there are others.

Thanks for the info! I ordered the JL Audio XD700/5 and wired remote from Crutchfield (Refurbished for $359). I just went back and checked for the Auto Turn-On, and it doesn't look like this amp has it. NOW WHAT?

 

[mwe-maxxowner 10+ year member]

I'm pretty sure that amp does have that features. Wait till u get it and see

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

Never listen to bestbuy....

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

I'm pretty sure that amp does have that features. Wait till u get it and see

I just pulled up the manual and it says it needs a 12v+ turn on lead. Doesn't say anything about 'auto-on' or the like.

link to manual -> http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/19304.pdf

TURN-ON LEAD

The XD700/5 uses a conventional +12V remote

turn-on lead, typically controlled by the source

unit's remote turn-on output. The amplifier will

turn on when +12V is present at its “Remote”

input and turn off when +12V is switched off. If

a source unit does not have a dedicated remote

turn-on output, the amplifier’s turn-on lead can

be connected to +12V via a switch that derives

power from an ignition-switched circuit.

The XD700/5’s “Remote” turn-on connector

is designed to accept 18 AWG – 12 AWG wire. To

connect the remote turn-on wire to the amplifier,

first back out the set screw on the top of the

terminal block, using the supplied 2.5mm hex

wrench. Strip 1/2 inch (12mm) of wire and insert

the bare wire into the terminal block, seating it

firmly so that no bare wire is exposed. While

holding the wire in the terminal, tighten the set

screw firmly, taking care not to strip the head of

the screw and making sure that the wire (not the

insulation) is firml

 

[mwe-maxxowner 10+ year member]

My slash 300/4 has that feature and I was under the impression that was kind of a standard jl thing. But I could certainly be wrong

 

[arsonbob 10+ year member]

It's not that hard to find a remote wire on a stock head unit.

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

It's not that hard to find a remote wire on a stock head unit.

You're right, it's not. But I usually prefer to just go over to Autozone and pick up one of those replacement fuses that has the expansion port, find a fuse in the fuse box that is controlled by the ignition or whatever and hook the expandable fuse up to that.

Cheap, easy and looks clean. Plus then your remote wire is fused.

 

[NOLAguy]

I received the amp, but just wished I had the time to attempt my first install. I checked around for some install quotes, and personally can't believe what I'm hearing... 4 shops range from $350 to $520 to $65/hr (min. 3 hours) + additional materials (wiring kits, etc). The other thing that is infuriating me is that everyone insists that I need the Line Level Converters... EVEN WHEN I SHOW THEM THE AMP MANUAL THAT SPECIFICALLY SAYS YOU DON'T! One installer said, "Yeah some of the new amps allow that, but I've never installed them that way and won't."

Anyone in the Baltimore area want to help me out?

Jay

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

You're right, it's not. But I usually prefer to just go over to Autozone and pick up one of those replacement fuses that has the expansion port, find a fuse in the fuse box that is controlled by the ignition or whatever and hook the expandable fuse up to that.
Cheap, easy and looks clean. Plus then your remote wire is fused.

^^^^ This