Speaker Level Inputs vs Line Level Converter??

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I never use an ignition voltage source at the fuse box for remote turn on. while it works and turns the amp on/off, it does so independent of the head unit. if the HU is turned off, but the amp is on, you can get noises or pops that can damage speakers. it's generally not a good idea unless you add a toggle switch at the dash. then every time you turn the car on/off, you use the switch to turn the amp on last (after HU) and off first (before HU). it gets old fast. you can buy a turn-on delay to help the turn-on issue, but that doesn't help turn-off.

always remember - you never want your amp on when your HU is off (or switching on/off).

you can buy LOC's with an auto turn-on feature. David Navone Engineering is my highest recommendation. that is the only reason I see you should buy a LOC.

your amp has high level inputs built in - those will usually outperform an external LOC. External components are subject to noise and increase wiring hassle. you don't need a LOC, you just need a turn-on signal.

sometimes, you can get one from the factory head unit - usually if a factory amp was an option. sometimes one is provided in the radio but not in the harness, so you need to add a pin to the harness to get it. every vehicle is different and i haven't seen a good resource for checking this. a vehicle specific forum may have someone who has done this. i mod a Honda Accord forum for that purpose - Accord specific help. You can also use a DMM to measure voltage on the wires (having a wire color code for your vehicle helps narrow it down a bit). you'll want to check the empty pins for voltage as well.

This link may help:

http://www.installdr.com/installdocs/flm/PDF/356017.pdf

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

Are you wanting to keep the factory head unit? My advice would be to get a 2 0r 4 channel amp and go with line level converters.

no!

unless you are using an amp without high level inputs, or you have a bigger budget and are looking counter act the bass boost/reduction that stock H/U tend to do via using a MTX REq, Bitone... then the amp with high level is absolutely the way to go!

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

most people have no idea what they are doing, and just repeat what they have heard without actual understanding of why we do things. that goes for many aspects of life, not just car audio. you can't judge everyone who works for Best Buy, i know of several Best Buy installers that are MECP Master Installation Technicians - they would run rings around anyone on this forum in both knowledge and skill. So always be careful about making general statements.

that said, i've heard a lot of bad car audio advice come out of "big box" stores, but not as much as i've heard on forums. oddly enough, forums have more bad information than good information since no level of experience is required with no consequences for incorrect information.

you don't need a LOC when you have high level inputs. on low quality amplifiers, maybe the high level inputs aren't the best. but one thing to consider is that some head unit outputs are "balanced" or "bridged" for more power. a LOC will convert to unbalanced, but some amps can use that balanced signal for both noise rejection and increased gain. there are too many variables to make a general statement, but the take away message is that high level inputs in the amps are usually a better option than external.

 

[kmanian 5,000+ posts]

most people have no idea what they are doing, and just repeat what they have heard without actual understanding of why we do things. that goes for many aspects of life, not just car audio. you can't judge everyone who works for Best Buy, i know of several Best Buy installers that are MECP Master Installation Technicians - they would run rings around anyone on this forum in both knowledge and skill. So always be careful about making general statements.
that said, i've heard a lot of bad car audio advice come out of "big box" stores, but not as much as i've heard on forums. oddly enough, forums have more bad information than good information since no level of experience is required with no consequences for incorrect information.

you don't need a LOC when you have high level inputs. on low quality amplifiers, maybe the high level inputs aren't the best. but one thing to consider is that some head unit outputs are "balanced" or "bridged" for more power. a LOC will convert to unbalanced, but some amps can use that balanced signal for both noise rejection and increased gain. there are too many variables to make a general statement, but the take away message is that high level inputs in the amps are usually a better option than external.

Well said! there is often so much bi tching about big box store installers, and independent shops installers, but I think most of the bit ching is caused from ignorance of the customer, with the occasional accurately discribed horror story.

 

[Nut Hair Trick 10+ year member]

Heres another option for you.

Audio Control LC2i

Two Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS™ and Subwoofer Control - LC2i

Watch the video on the page and it will explain how it works. Tap into your speaker wires, run a power and ground, and you're good. No remote wire needed for this unit, but has a remote out for you amplifiers. It has 2 pre outs, one for highs/mids and one for your subs. It also fixes the reduction in volume that you get when you turn up your factory HU. I bought one last week and will be putting it in soon.

 

[i2ain2thunder 10+ year member]

I use the fuse for the windshield wipers on my car. Ironically it works extremely well as my windshield wipers/airconditioning/radio/and amplifier all turn on at the same time now and if I turn the key just to that point I can run my amp and radio without even turning the ignition to the start position so I kind of have a makeshift accessory position on my ignition now //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif works well for me, but every car is different. However the wiper fuse is a good idea if you are lazy and don't want to figure out the right wire to use from the HU. Situations where I want the HU off and the amp off at the same time without shutting off the car = 0 so that really isn't a problem for me. My radio and amp turn on at the same time and turn off at the same time, I can manually turn off the HU and yes the amp would still be on, but I run into this situation never.

 

[NOLAguy]

I appreciate all the feedback from everyone. And, as much as I wanted to do this upgrade, I just don't have the time to do it myself. Sooooo, since I couldn't find an installer to install the amp the way I wanted (no LOC), I have pulled the Rockford Fosgates from the truck and listed both pairs of 6x8's, plus the amp/remote combo on eBay. If anyone is interested, here are the links:

Rockford Fosgate 1683 6x8 3-ways(Practically new, installed and removed)

Rockford Fosgate 1683 6x8 3-ways (New In Box)

JL Audio 700/5 5-Channel Amp & HD-RLC Remote Level Control

Thanks!

Jay

 

[mwe-maxxowner 10+ year member]

Oy...really would not have been that difficult to install yourself and get up and running...

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Bummer Jay,

You could have just removed the LOC when they were done... Unless the LOC gave an auto turn-on signal... In which case it would have been fine to leave in.