Speaker kick pods or not?

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DBz Hertz
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Hey guys, I'm debating on how to mount my components and I'm at a loss. I found these kick panels on QLogics site and they look promising...

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The QLogic page goes on to say these kick panels are a more ideal mounting location for speakers. They are like 150 bucks, worth it?

Anyway, I'm also toying with the idea of mounting my tweeters higher, on the a-pillar, and leaving the woofer in the factory location. I know I'll have to tweak the time alignment if I do it this way.

Opinions welcomed! Thank you.

 
have you ever heard speaker from a kick panel. i find that alot of applications leave the person wanting more as alot of the sound wave is blocked by your leg and the dash.

 
have you ever heard speaker from a kick panel. i find that alot of applications leave the person wanting more as alot of the sound wave is blocked by your leg and the dash.
You know, I was thinking that would be an issue and at 150 bones, I think I need to go a different route. I've heard people bring up issues with mounting the woofer low and the tweeter high, what kind of issues could arise? I assume time alignment would be off, anything else?

 
@ $150 for those, I would rather put that money to either a better headunit, better amp, or better speakers.
Agree'd on using the money elsewhere. I like the headunit, amp and speakers a lot. I think they are great.

 
@ $150 for those, I would rather put that money to either a better headunit, better amp, or better speakers.
Agree'd on using the money elsewhere. I like the headunit, amp and speakers a lot. I think they are great.

 
kick speaker locations are great for improving path length differences (PLD's). it's locating the tweeter down there that is an issue with your legs and sound stage height. but seriously, the leg argument is invalid because door speakers are awful locations due to your knee and the plastic factory grill also.

doors are great for volume and midbass though. kick speakers are a lot more involved than a $150 pr of q-logic plastic panels. you need to reinforce the plastic frame with fiberglass (inside) for strength, you need to cut away factory carpet and metal to reveal a volume for the speaker to play into, as well as ensuring you have an airtight seal.

the only way i'd use the q-logic panels would be for a pretty grill cover that fits over custom kicks. or in conjunction with door midbass so you only need a smaller midrange in the kicks (thus less issues with strength and airspace).

 
@ $150 for those, I would rather put that money to either a better headunit, better amp, or better speakers.
better Hu, amp, or speakers won't help with jacked up speaker placements/aiming.

kick speaker locations are great for improving path length differences (PLD's). it's locating the tweeter down there that is an issue with your legs and sound stage height. but seriously, the leg argument is invalid because door speakers are awful locations due to your knee and the plastic factory grill also.
doors are great for volume and midbass though. kick speakers are a lot more involved than a $150 pr of q-logic plastic panels. you need to reinforce the plastic frame with fiberglass (inside) for strength, you need to cut away factory carpet and metal to reveal a volume for the speaker to play into, as well as ensuring you have an airtight seal.

the only way i'd use the q-logic panels would be for a pretty grill cover that fits over custom kicks. or in conjunction with door midbass so you only need a smaller midrange in the kicks (thus less issues with strength and airspace).
x2. They're just flimsy plastic panels that are open-backed. Not good for midbass at all.

 
Another thing to think about with aftermarket kick pod boxes. IDK what you drive, but on my truck, it would have been impossible to install the kick pods safely as it would prevent me from being able tp apply my parking break. Although they do sell them for my truck, last time I looked, there stock photo shows no visual parking break pedale interference or any mention of this clearence problem. although when all the way down, my parking break pedal is only about 2-3" from my stock flat kick pannle

 
floor parking bakes are a PITA for kick work. if you have an automatic, and no hills, and can justify losing it (like i did in my old 82 mailbu with a siezed parking brake) you can maybe justify removing it. but parking brakes are handy. i use mine everytime i park my AT accord to protect the transmission.

with a parking break you need to look at a recessed kick, like mine.

 
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DBz Hertz

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