sound deadening door help

Use perforated sheet metal. You can get it in at Home Depot. Aluminum bends easier than steel. Use the holes and screw it to the door, then cover with deadener. I wouldn't span more than 4" or so without a backing. Cardboard is definitely out, it'll fall apart when wet.

Searched Depot for perforated sheet and got this:

Search Results for*perforated sheet*at The Home Depot

You can get it cheaper from McMasterCarr.

 
Agreed with the other posts, our best luck for larger holes is aluminum or steel flashing, and small self-tapping screws.

Makes for super solid covers with a layer of good deadener on top.

The flashing is in the roofing section of lowe's/HD and can be bought for less then $10.

Any holes smaller then 4x4" you can just cover with deadener without issue if you want to seal it up that way.

 
what do you put behind the deadener when there is a big hole in your door, or do you just put the deadener over it without anything behind it. Idk if cardboard would work or sumthing any help would be appreciated
Lowe's or Home Depot and get some corrugated plastic signs like used for garage sales and use those. Attach them with some silicone and lay your deadner over the top, cheap and works really well!

 
did this about 3 years ago (stolen from caco)

1966-creations-010.jpg

tossed the vapor barrier, re-routed the electrical loom to the inside of the door itself for minimal protrusion in the fatmat,... applied 30 feet of 4" butyl/asphalt tape to the inside of the outer door skin (cheaper and easier to get inside, added mass=deadening), cleaned the surfaces thoroughly with industrial windex-like degreaser+wax stripping agent for proper adhesion before applying

1988-creations-015.jpg


had to fill in the big holes, good thing i had a bunch of sheet metal lyin around,.. note the left piece has had the left edges bucked to form around the chamfer seeing that there was no flange to fasten to around it, and was fabbed to allow the door latch cable to operate uncompromised... i used 3/8" self tapping phillips pan-head sheet metal screws

1989-creations-016.jpg


1 good layer on, took the window track nuts and bolts out 1 at a time as i went instead of covering over them for better ease of getting the fatmat as flat as possible,... not 1 piece of deadener was wasted,... 5x7's will stay til i get enclosures for the zpm130's figured out,.. the voids will be sheet metal'd over once that come to fruition,..

1990-creations-017.jpg


panels are easy to remove for access to innards if I need to get in there, just gotta cut and peel back the deadener from the screws to detatch the panel.

made a very noticeable difference immediately,..
after 3 years, it still holds up great

 
a passive radiator is used in home audio enclosures in place of a port - the radiator is essentially another woofer but without a motor. the cone moves in opposition to the powered woofer. tuning is achieved by adding mass to the radiator cone. improperly designed, the radiator will worsen response. deadener over a hole is not a designed passive radiator.

 
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