sound deadener?

I like eDead. I used it on my whole truck and on my bro's whole ***** Am. Its been on my Dakota for about 2-3 months and its been working great. Its been on my bro's ***** Am for over a year and its still holding up fine. I live in New Mexico so its freaken hot over here and it hasnt affected my truck and my bros TA. I hope this helps.
u used 4 layers????

 
I did on my roof and cab. On my doors I think i layed down 2 layers on the inside of the door skins and one layer on the other part of my door.

 
Im thinking about just getting a shop pack and doing it right the first time so i never have to do it again unless i just want to put more layers on... and im going to damplify the whole car so if the shop pack doesnt do the whole thing i think ill just buy a door or trunk pack to finish the job

 
Im thinking about just getting a shop pack and doing it right the first time so i never have to do it again unless i just want to put more layers on... and im going to damplify the whole car so if the shop pack doesnt do the whole thing i think ill just buy a door or trunk pack to finish the job
Actually just went out and counted what I got left and I'm at 24ft/door. I'd start with the shop pack and see where that gets you. If your sealing the doors you'll definately want to get the outer door skin right the first time. I did one layer on the outer in most spots with two layers on the bigger panel sections and its pretty **** dead.

There is nothing like a properly deadened vehicle, its worth all the money and the hassle.

 
do people like fatmat?
there are a few of us who do. Are there better products? of coarse. there are a few who say its crap. My guess is that they either havent used it, or have and didnt prep what they were working on. Im in florida and have a black car, I havent had any issues yet. There are alot who say it is just peel and seal. no its not, and if you want to try and prove this wrong buy both and show me that its the same?

 
I'll just chime in after getting my front doors deadened tonight and I'm really impressed with the Raamat BXT + Ensolite. It was incredibly easy to put on (no roller needed) and the results were outstanding. I honestly can't believe the difference it made in the sound - it's like I have a new set of comps.

The guy earlier that said to wear gloves was right - there's now DNA proof that I own my car now due to the blood in the doors and my fingers are sore as hell //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/mad.gif.c18f003ab0ef8a0d9c27ca78d77a6392.gif

Sounds like you're probably going the SecondSkin route, which you can't go wrong w/either from all the folks backing it. Best of luck!

 
heh - I guess I let my guard down a couple of times while pressing it down doing the inner door, went down the edge and the foil got me.

Oh well, it was definitely worth it. And ya, that sheet metal can be nasty stuff.

 
there are a few of us who do. Are there better products? of coarse. there are a few who say its crap. My guess is that they either havent used it, or have and didnt prep what they were working on. Im in florida and have a black car, I havent had any issues yet. There are alot who say it is just peel and seal. no its not, and if you want to try and prove this wrong buy both and show me that its the same?
I have both in my hands and at measures the same in every regard. Also tests the same. The guy who owns FatMat now is also a Peel & Seal dealer. Better yet, I've asked him what the difference is and he refused to answer. What more do you want? Is it possible that FatMat isn't manufactured by MFM (makers of P&S), sure, but if it isn't, it is an exact clone.

As to eDead, putting aside recent reports of adhesive failure, IMO the biggest problem it has is the Mylar (plastic) facing they use instead of aluminum foil. Foil is an important component. No foil = much more product required to achieve the same results. You absolutely want a butyl adhesive with aluminum foil - the thicker the foil the better.

Any asphalt product is going to be much less effective than butyl. More important, it is MUCH less reliable. Some people have had good luck, but many have had it melt or fall off. It's basically better than nothing if it doesn't fail. Since it is so much less effective than butyl, you can get the same results using much less of a butyl/foil product. The savings are illusory and the risks are extreme. I wouldn't put asphalt in any vehicle I owned.

 
It seems RAAMmat has had some inconsistencies over it's evolution which may attract criticism. For me, it was very tar-like to work with and I'm not sure why a true butylene rubber product would have this. DE is also slightly toward this end IME as well. After a couple years on my doors the butyl has gone slightly gooey, but still has maintained it's overall integrity. DE and VMax, on the other hand, have remained just as they went down.
I agree with this. Butyl describes a wide range of compounds. I wouldn't say "tar-like", just because those words imply asphalt, but there is no question that V-Max and Damplifier use very high quality adhesives, Dynamat Xtreme seems to be lower quality and RAAMmat lower quality still. All should be adequately reliable, but elasticity is important for damping and the further you go down the quality scale, these product's adhesives get less elastic and more gooey. RAAMmat's foil is also somewhat thinner. Everything points to performance being impacted by all of these characteristics.

 
I wouldn't say "tar-like", just because those words imply asphalt
What would you say, then??

I've seen pics and have heard many complaints of RAAM butyl getting all over interiors and especially all over your hands. I can find threads entitled "how do i get RAAMmat out of my interior upholstery?" or something along those lines. The inside of the box I got my roll in happened to be white, except for where the mat rubbed of and it was all black and "tar-like." Which component in butyl rubber causes this??

What's really nice about the higher quality adhesives, as you've mentioned many times Don, is the ability to re-position the mat in the first 10 min or so. And with this the improvement of the semi-permanent, yet liquid-like state that's maintained for the life of the product.

After all, I don't know anyone that's interested in removing their deadening mats after a few years and replacing them. Actually, as it's been shown by both you and I, some "deadeners" automatically do this for you - and you don't even need to wait a couple years!! LOL... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
What would you say, then??
All of the complaints I've seen have involved a batch that was sold through irregular channels - forums and eBay, variously called RAAMmat Extra Gooey and B-Stock. I have no idea what that was and urged people to stay away from it. Could have been asphalt for all I know. I've seen a picture of somebody's hands after working with it and "tar-like" is a good description of that stuff.

I'm only talking about RAAMmat BXT sold through raamaudio.com. I've seen the MSDS for that and it doesn't contain asphalt - although Rick has inexplicably stated that he wished he could get them to put a small amount of asphalt into it, which makes no sense to me at all. Regular RAAMmat BXT is stickier than the higher priced and higher quality alternatives, but it doesn't smear on your hands. THe adhesive is rubbery, but not as elastic as the others.

It's my understanding that the sub standard RAAMmat will never be sold again, so let's stick to RAAMmat BXT. I am not saying it is a less expensive version of V-Max or Damplifier, it is clearly different and not as good. I'm saying it is the least expensive product that can be relied upon. The others will perform better. I'm only objecting to the use of the word "tar" because that means asphalt and there is a big difference between asphalt and RAAMmat.

It really isn't a question of there being a component in butyl rubber that explains any of this. There are many grades of "butyl" and none of these products are pure butyl. Each has significant quantities of additives. Some add mass, some promote adhesion - many different things go into the pot. Once you've used the higher quality materials, it would be hard to go back, but some people can't justify the extra cost. Anybody who is considering using FatMat, Peel & Seal, B-Quite Extreme, Sound Destroyer, R-Blox - any of the asphalt being sold as sound deadener - is going to be much better off using RAAMmat.

 
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