Some really newb questions.

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Will an 80 amp fuse work with 1200 watts?

Should do

 

[wokeupquick 10+ year member]

Ok, sweet. So then everything is set, I will do the following tomorrow:

1. Cut 1 foot of power wire off, strip both ends, attach to one end to ring terminal and one end to fuse. Strip one end of rest of the x feet of wire I have and attach that to the fuse (do I need to take out the fuse connector when hooking all of this up?). Attach ring terminal to positive terminal of battery. Find a place to run the power wire through the firewall.

2. Take off trim (any tips on how I should go about removing this?). Run power wire under the carpet on driver side, somehow get through to the trunk (again, how should I do this? I have seats that can fold forward - should I just run it through a crack there?).

3. Run remote wire and RCA's from the back of the deck, I'm guessing under the dash -> under the carpet after removing trim on the passenger side. Run that to the trunk.

Does that look good to all of you? Anything I should do to "secure" things, like electrical tape, zip ties, split looms, etc.? I have all of these supplies.

How much wire should I strip off each end, approx.? And I guess I'll use a razor blade to do this. My amp. is currently on its way to my house, so I won't have it for another few days. Is it okay to operate the car with all this loose wire sitting around in my trunk?

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

Remove the fuse from the fuse holder until everything is installed. Last thing to do is put the fuse in, it will spark.

 

[wokeupquick 10+ year member]

Should I be removing the - battery terminal for safety reasons? Then connect this first, and then put the fuse back in? Or fuse in first, and then battery?

Any comments on my other questions?

Thank you very much.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

Will an 80 amp fuse work with 1200 watts?

No. If running on your battery and you actually hit 1200RMS, you're drawing over 96 amperes.

You should base the fuse size more off the wire size you are fusing and less on your output. The fuse is primarily there to protect the wire from melting/sparking during a surge of power.

I assume you're using at least 4g wire, which can easily handle 150amps. I'd go with a fuse between 130-150.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

Remove the fuse from the fuse holder until everything is installed. Last thing to do is put the fuse in, it will spark.

Don't bother with this. Leave the negative disconnected from your battery post during the entire install. Once you are done, reconnect the negative. That's the best and safest way. Do not go popping a fuse in a live wire.

 

[wokeupquick 10+ year member]

Ok thank you very much for your input! I hate to be a nagger, but what about my other questions in post 17? I need to get procedure down for everything so I don't screw anything over.

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

No. If running on your battery and you actually hit 1200RMS, you're drawing over 96 amperes.
You should base the fuse size more off the wire size you are fusing and less on your output. The fuse is primarily there to protect the wire from melting/sparking during a surge of power.

I assume you're using at least 4g wire, which can easily handle 150amps. I'd go with a fuse between 130-150.

Playing music it is quite unlikely he will pop the 80 amp fuse.

Don't bother with this. Leave the negative disconnected from your battery post during the entire install. Once you are done, reconnect the negative. That's the best and safest way. Do not go popping a fuse in a live wire.

He isn't going to have his amp when he's installing his wiring, so he SHOULD take the fuse out of the fuse holder to keep a live 12v wire from bouncing around in his trunk //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

No matter what you disconnect, there are still going to be components in the vehicle that will want to draw power from the battery, therefore sparking when the circuit is reconnected.

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

This tool helps alot when removing panels. You can find it at your local auto store. When you remove the floor panels along the doors they'll probably be room for your wires. Just run them along with the existing wires to your trunk. Zip tieing is always a nice touch.

Wire strip lenth is based off what you are placing the wire into. Place the wire next to it to get an idea or stick something smaller inside the hole to see how much you should strip.

 

[wokeupquick 10+ year member]

Ok. What about split looming? What should I be using these for?

 

[jrwalte 10+ year member]

Playing music it is quite unlikely he will pop the 80 amp fuse.

But possible so why recommend?

He isn't going to have his amp when he's installing his wiring, so he SHOULD take the fuse out of the fuse holder to keep a live 12v wire from bouncing around in his trunk //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

I didn't catch that part. Until the amp is connected he shouldn't have the fuse in, I agree. But how I read it was while he's working on installing the power wire he should only remove the fuse and plug it in when his install is done, all while the neg battery post is connected.

No matter what you disconnect, there are still going to be components in the vehicle that will want to draw power from the battery, therefore sparking when the circuit is reconnected.

All the more reason you want it happening on the negative post of the bat (where the bat can handle any short spike) and not on a component...especially a positive one like a fuse where it could arc to you (highly unlikely but possible).

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

But possible so why recommend?

He already has the fuse holder, I assumed it came with the 80A fuse. OP did not specify.

 

[wokeupquick 10+ year member]

Yeah I already have the fuse.... what should I use the split looms for?

And how should I be getting the wiring through to the trunk?