...so THAT'S wtf was rattling so bad....

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Dayum.

That's a good problem to have

 

[xseveredveganx 10+ year member]

I'd TIG it... You can back up the inside with some like 16gauge or 14gauge sheetmetal.

It won't be that hard. And if you get a competent TIG welder, he shouldn't blow through the metal. I'd probably seam seal it as well.

 

[ughhibye 10+ year member]

I'd TIG it... You can back up the inside with some like 16gauge or 14gauge sheetmetal.
It won't be that hard. And if you get a competent TIG welder, he shouldn't blow through the metal. I'd probably seam seal it as well.

exactly i watched my neighbor tig weld a **** coke can

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

not familiar with TIG welding and im too lazy to search it. gimme a rundown of it.

 

[xseveredveganx 10+ year member]

not familiar with TIG welding and im too lazy to search it. gimme a rundown of it.

TIG = tungsten inert gas. It's similar to how oxy/acetylene is done, but instead of using a fuel and oxidizing gas, it uses electricity and a shielding gas (argon or helium or others, depending on the application...).

So, it can be done with relatively low heat and still maintain the maleability of the metal. A lot of hot rodders I know prefer to TIG sheet metal pieces because they can still hammer n dolly the areas. If it was MIG'd, the weld is much harder and a bit more difficult to bodywork. A lot of suspension guys prefer TIG, too. Mainly because the heat is more concentrated to where you want it.

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I'm a welding dork...

 

[xseveredveganx 10+ year member]

still cant believe i managed to make a hole in my tire well......god ****

I agree!!! Chevy, FTL!!!

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[trueplaya89 10+ year member]

God **** J... your owning your car lol.

 

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

yeah as people are saying, just get it welded. i'm sort of in the same predicament as you as my trunk lid has a nasty crack in it which doesn't allow my trunk lid to sit/seal properly. rain water can make it's way into my trunk :/

after you get it welded add sound deadening. then you should be fine.

 

[Crzy 10+ year member]

lucky it is under the car, get soem of the extremely strong epoxy for body seems and make a metal plate to attach over the crack. glue it down and then either rivet or bolt it down really good and deaden both sides. if u dont feel comfortabel welding it that should at least keep it from cracking more and keep it form alowing the elements in/ ur bass from leaking out ha

 

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

if you don't want to do the welding route, then go buy 2 packs of JB Weld..

start with the underside(outside) and prep the surface by sanding off the paint 1/2" around the crack. all the way around. then realign the crack so it sits properly. then take JB Weld and spread a nice coat onto the crack. left the jbweld fully cure. then from inside the trunk so the same process and sand the paint off 1/2" around the crack. run a coat of jbweld on that side and allow it to fully cure. when done just cover it in deadener

 

[Crzy 10+ year member]

if you don't want to do the welding route, then go buy 2 packs of JB Weld..start with the underside(outside) and prep the surface by sanding off the paint 1/2" around the crack. all the way around. then realign the crack so it sits properly. then take JB Weld and spread a nice coat onto the crack. left the jbweld fully cure. then from inside the trunk so the same process and sand the paint off 1/2" around the crack. run a coat of jbweld on that side and allow it to fully cure. when done just cover it in deadener

i dont know how long jb will last against flexing though, stuff doesnt like to be flexed too much or else it cracks, has no give once dry it kinds just crumbles and cracks when flexed when dry from my experience using the stuff

 

[fbi90909 5,000+ posts]

i dont know how long jb will last against flexing though, stuff doesnt like to be flexed too much or else it cracks, has no give once dry it kinds just crumbles and cracks when flexed when dry from my experience using the stuff

actually i did this process for my spare tire well a few months ago on my car with a 4" crack that was caused by an XXX15.. now i run a BTL with twice the power and that jb welded area is holding up 100%.. i just now have cracking on my trunk lid..

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

thats why i'm thinking bondo might be sturdier

Bondo? Bondo isnt structural at all, simply for filling visual voids, I would never use it for anything that flexes or experiences any kind of load. Bondo sucks *** and will crack apart.

If you dont have access to welding, just use some JB weld until then to stop any further damage.

Check out craigslist or any ads around, Im sure you can find someone local who can tack weld with a decent MIG.

 

[redrider13 10+ year member]

holy shit! don't use bondo, its just a filler. you'll definitely want to do like MikeyB said and either JB weld that or get someone to do it proper.

 

[MikeyB 5,000+ posts]

The way to handle it the right was, is as follows:

-Wipe down the area.

-Die Grinder, ~120grit pad, hit the area surrounding the crack cleaning off all the paint.

-MIG welder using Argon (NOT Flux-core), pressing the metal even at the crack, do some tack welds along the crack to get the metal tacked in place where it needs to be.

-Tack the entire crack back together, being sure to spread the heat and not do too many tacks in one spot, which could over heat the metal causing warping.

-Grinder, grind all the tacks down smooth, fill in any missed spots.

-Final grind and a run down with the die and a lighter pad.

-Spread out some seam sealer along the repaired area.

-Spray some paint over it to prevent rusting.

Problem Solved!