So how is 3 way active even wired?

A 6 channel is the easier option, but you an use anything from a 2 channel amp on up (per set).

Your first suggestion would work, 60 watts for mids and highs and 150 watts for woofers. You want roughly double the power to the woofers as your tweets. Make sure your amp has at least a 12/db slope crossover on the tweets or you might burn them up if they send stray lower tones to them.

 
You can do this any way you like. I'd say a single 5 or 6 channel amp is simplest, but you may not be able to find one that has your power requirements so multiple different amps will be in order.

 
Well currently i have a 4 channel 150x4 sundown amp. I have a 2 way component system. Ive got channel 1+2 going to the passive crossovers which splits it to the mids and tweeters. ive got channel 3+4 to the rearfill. i could take out rearfill and hook up channel 3-4 to the tweeters but that kinda scares me to give it that much power.

 
If your worried about over powering tweets just use the passive crossover as a buffer for your tweets only. Chance are it crossed lower than you want for active anyway. So you will still have a bit of control over them. Then use your head unit if possible for your rears.

 
I was suggesting that the factory is usually crossed a little higher than we like so you may be able to cross it where you want. But yes, if you want to cross it at 4k than it's no help. A lot of crossovers have tweeter control inside the casing even if they don't advertise it on the outside. Maybe you can get lucky.

 
If your worried about over powering tweets just use the passive crossover as a buffer for your tweets only. Chance are it crossed lower than you want for active anyway. So you will still have a bit of control over them. Then use your head unit if possible for your rears.
Defeats the purpose of running active.

 
using the passive crossovers for the tweeter only will provide extra protection for them and you can still run active and have a higher crossover point. but you'll also hear some distortion associated with the passive crossover and still have the phase shift associated with the passive crossover. i'm not a fan of that tweeter and passive crossover combination, running true active may be an improvement.

don't worry as much about overpowering - use the gains to attenuate the tweeter level such that the tweeters are the same amplitude as the woofers around the crossover point. having an RTA or sound level meter helps with this (even an Audio Tool RTA app for your phone). you'll find the tweeters need a lot less power to achieve the same amplitude.

i'd start with a 4kHz crossover point.

 
Ok lets see if i got this straight for how i would go about this if i wanted to go full active.

amp= 150 rms by 4 channels.

channel 1+2 goes to woofers

channel 3+4 goes to tweeters.

If i wanted to follow your advice and start with 4Khz.

(For Woofers)

Head unit to 90%(ive read excelons have no clipping till almost 100%, tested this out by ear and sounds pretty true.)

Turn channel 1+2 to full range. Turn gains up till its as loud as ill ever listen to it.

Turn channels 1+2 to HPF. Run 4khz test tone. Turn hpf clockwise until i hear it start to attenuate(which i think means gets quieter). Thats right about where 4khz is on my HPF dial on my amp.

Use sound meter on phone, write down what number its giving me on loudest ill listen to it. Using 4khz tone

(for tweeters)

Turn on HPF. Set it to where its at on Channels 1+2

look at sound meter, turn gains up till it matches the number that the woofers were at.

So questions.

1. Should i get bass blockers for tweeters as a reassurance?

2.I feel like im not supposed to have it at full volume with test tones. Pretty sure its really bad for the speakers. if the Sound meter on my phone says (just for arguments sake) 10db on 11 volume, then it should be 20db on 22 volume. Making it so i shouldnt have to run full volume to it balanced

3. Should i just ditch the hertz tweeter and invest in a PA high rms tweeter. mount it in my door, closer to my woofer?

also my amp has an undefeatable sunsonic filter that maxes out at 500hz. Im assuming on my tweeter side, i should turn that all the way up to 500hz, Help block any bass frequencies.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Pretty much. It's just a nice kit. A solo rite Scarlett 2i2, XLR mic and a loop back cable are my next purchases so I can get accurate phase...
10
542
It's always leaned that direction. Not sure how cheap you can really get anything done these days. Deadening and custom mounting...
10
947
https://www.alpine-usa.com/products/subwoofers/truck-enclosures
3
1K
As for your setup, the circled input in that reply is where the LOC (built into the amp) is located. You don’t need a LOC other than that. All you...
35
4K
well they list that frequence response so I will try to use it. Also, does it help to have the marine speakers in their towers for such a thing...
2
772

About this thread

The Camry

Hey, I Try.
Thread starter
The Camry
Joined
Location
Western Oregon
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
17
Views
1,299
Last reply date
Last reply from
keep_hope_alive
1000007975.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    May 16, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
1000007974.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    May 16, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top