Should I get a Capistor

capacitors are complete crap, that guy at work probably thinks he knows everything about car audio, did he tell you to buy JL's also?
anyway get a small battery.

google KenitikHC800

little bit more than a cap, but it would be like have 800 of them or something in your car
I run a cap. Am I stupid?
im the guy hes talkin bout and its not a matter of more power if i needed more power i would get a high output alternator and a yellow top battery i have plenty of power i just want my amp to have a steady stream of power which is what the cap is used for wow u guys talk big but fail to do reasearch before posting ive been looking at upgrading my audio for a while so i have done alot of reasearch also to find the cap u need the math is .01 farads per 100 watts so a 1000w system is a 1.0 farad cap
Actually I forget the mathematical formula but at one point I had found the formula on how to convert farad's to AH (amp hours). I have one deep cycle so far and it is rated at 125 ah... And to get the same in farad's from capacitors it was like 2,200 farads... Yes over 2000 farads to get the same reserve as one walmart deep cycle. For a large system capacitors are a total waste of money. As for the reference to the kinetik 800...... For what that cost you get a reg car battery or a deep cycle. (at least from a reserve point of view). I am a firm believer that in a smaller daily app kinetiks are a waste of cash. The 800 has a AH rating of 36 amps. (prob less than the smallest lowest line of battery for cars you can buy at walmart or any other automotive shop) This is just my personal belief . \But there again from a reserve capacity vs dollars there are MUCH better options for normal daily systems than kinetiks. Unless space is an issue or if you are concerned about having it in a cab of a truck (due to toxic gases) IN this situation a optima redtop is prob close to same cost and holds over 2 times the amount if not pushing 3 times.
Yeah, tell him he should buy the unused scosche one I have for $20.
Ok. I will try to give you guys the best advice I can.

My experience with caps:

Had 2 farads on a 1600-1800 watt system. Sounded great. I removed one; Quite noticeable reduction in output and clarity at high volumes.

Did not pay attention to voltages w/ this setup.

Had 1 farad on 1,000 watt system. don't quite remember voltages, although I payed more attention this time. Tried with/ without cap, definately noticed a reduction of bass output from the beginnoing to end of a long bass note w/o the cap. With the cap, the same note stayed at roughly the same volume.

3rd setup was a 1 farad cap on a PR1000.1 and 2 M3 12's. I paid close attention to the voltage on this setup, and noticed w/o the cap my voltage was dropping to around 10.5-10.6. Hooked up the cap, same song, and the voltage would not drop lower than 13.5.

If I had to guess, I'd say that cap was good for an extra 2-300 watts of sustained output

NOW. This is using high quality caps (RF, Stinger).

The cheap ones do not work worth a crap.

Alot of people say they mess up your electrical, I had a stock Honda Civic alternator supplying 1800 watts on the first system I named, and even though the lights dimmed a good bit, it sounded great and my alternator held up fine.

Again, these ase MY experiences.

It makes me laugh when people say caps are crap because they are making a very general statement about something that is very application specific.

 
im the guy hes talkin bout and its not a matter of more power if i needed more power i would get a high output alternator and a yellow top battery i have plenty of power i just want my amp to have a steady stream of power which is what the cap is used for wow u guys talk big but fail to do reasearch before posting ive been looking at upgrading my audio for a while so i have done alot of reasearch also to find the cap u need the math is .01 farads per 100 watts so a 1000w system is a 1.0 farad cap
You were talking to the guys at Visions weren't you?! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

 
Ok. I will try to give you guys the best advice I can.
My experience with caps:

Had 2 farads on a 1600-1800 watt system. Sounded great. I removed one; Quite noticeable reduction in output and clarity at high volumes.

Did not pay attention to voltages w/ this setup.

Had 1 farad on 1,000 watt system. don't quite remember voltages, although I payed more attention this time. Tried with/ without cap, definately noticed a reduction of bass output from the beginnoing to end of a long bass note w/o the cap. With the cap, the same note stayed at roughly the same volume.

3rd setup was a 1 farad cap on a PR1000.1 and 2 M3 12's. I paid close attention to the voltage on this setup, and noticed w/o the cap my voltage was dropping to around 10.5-10.6. Hooked up the cap, same song, and the voltage would not drop lower than 13.5.

If I had to guess, I'd say that cap was good for an extra 2-300 watts of sustained output

NOW. This is using high quality caps (RF, Stinger).

The cheap ones do not work worth a crap.

Alot of people say they mess up your electrical, I had a stock Honda Civic alternator supplying 1800 watts on the first system I named, and even though the lights dimmed a good bit, it sounded great and my alternator held up fine.

Again, these ase MY experiences.

It makes me laugh when people say caps are crap because they are making a very general statement about something that is very application specific.

look at the red. if you had an issue after removing the cap on long bass notes, then you had something else wrong. A capacitor would discharge in the first 1/12,000 of a second and then have to recharge. it will not make your system louder on a long bass note.

 
well considering i just realized i had my alt switched out last year as it wasnt charging my batt properly and my mech put in a high out put 220 amp 12v alt i only need the cap to have a steady stream of power to the amp nothing else. also i have a buddy that works at visions so i can get everything at cost plus 5% so im saving 500-600 bucks on a 1500 dollar sound system im fine with getting it for an extra 15bucks(actual cost)
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif:crap://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

 
no why would i used to work at an electronics store i know all they want is to sell you everything and the kitchen sink to make money ive done my own research online everything from specs to power consumption to any issues from having and not having a cap

 
no why would i used to work at an electronics store i know all they want is to sell you everything and the kitchen sink to make money ive done my own research online everything from specs to power consumption to any issues from having and not having a cap
Ok, well, good luck with your project. Perhaps if you consider the cap as an add on, try your new setup without it first. Then add it in if you think you really need it.

 
look at the red. if you had an issue after removing the cap on long bass notes, then you had something else wrong. A capacitor would discharge in the first 1/12,000 of a second and then have to recharge. it will not make your system louder on a long bass note.
hey look reasearch

Power conditioning

Reservoir capacitors are used in power supplies where they smooth the output of a full or half wave rectifier. They can also be used in charge pump circuits as the energy storage element in the generation of higher voltages than the input voltage.

Capacitors are connected in parallel with the power circuits of most electronic devices and larger systems (such as factories) to shunt away and conceal current fluctuations from the primary power source to provide a "clean" power supply for signal or control circuits. Audio equipment, for example, uses several capacitors in this way, to shunt away power line hum before it gets into the signal circuitry. The capacitors act as a local reserve for the DC power source, and bypass AC currents from the power supply. This is used in car audio applications, when a stiffening capacitor compensates for the inductance and resistance of the leads to the lead-acid car battery.

 
hey look reasearch
Power conditioning

Reservoir capacitors are used in power supplies where they smooth the output of a full or half wave rectifier. They can also be used in charge pump circuits as the energy storage element in the generation of higher voltages than the input voltage.

Capacitors are connected in parallel with the power circuits of most electronic devices and larger systems (such as factories) to shunt away and conceal current fluctuations from the primary power source to provide a "clean" power supply for signal or control circuits. Audio equipment, for example, uses several capacitors in this way, to shunt away power line hum before it gets into the signal circuitry. The capacitors act as a local reserve for the DC power source, and bypass AC currents from the power supply. This is used in car audio applications, when a stiffening capacitor compensates for the inductance and resistance of the leads to the lead-acid car battery.

effectively known as a noise filter. not a main feed for a power amplifier:fyi:

why don't competitors in car audio use caps if they work so well?

 
Capacitors

Capacitors are used to store energy for the amplifier to draw on demand. They come in many different sizes ranging from .5 Farads to well over 100. Like just about everything in life, capacitors have their place in the car audio world.

 
oh did i mention ive seen some one f*** up their audio system as well as their alt and battery because they didnt have a cap to make sure power flow is proper and not over or under better to be safe and not kill my car and buy new parts than spend a grand or so on fixing my car eh?

 
look at the red. if you had an issue after removing the cap on long bass notes, then you had something else wrong. A capacitor would discharge in the first 1/12,000 of a second and then have to recharge. it will not make your system louder on a long bass note.
You are wrong son.

I heard it with my own ears, and witnessed the sustained voltage increase with my own eyes.

 
oh did i mention ive seen some one f*** up their audio system as well as their alt and battery because they didnt have a cap to make sure power flow is proper and not over or under better to be safe and not kill my car and buy new parts than spend a grand or so on fixing my car eh?
tumbleweed2.gif


I'm kidding of course... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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