should i do it? 2 18" bl's in 16-20 cubes?

Should i sacrifice my explorer?


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I would have never done the port that way. Should have been done like Bamaboy's box if you ask me.

Also, aero's are louder. I did see that aero's are not an option due to monetary considerations, but if you would like a sure fire way to gain a Db or 2, go with aeros. In my car, aero's were 1.6 Db louder.

 
sorry no pics of that install, im running 4 15's now i got rid of the 2 18's, and went with more cone area. as for ur box build it CRX style subs facing up and port firing to the rear. that way u get as much port area as possible. and far as aeros it be best if u can run them, Also dont buy em make em ur self. i have an tutorial on termpro where i made my own Aero ports, if u need help just hit me up Pm me. i can show u how to make ur own aero ports. its like 9X cheaper to build them urself.

 
Ok, heres what i would do. Assuming you don't use your backseats THAT much, you take them out, build a new box just a little bit above the seat line still with subs up and port back. Only this time try using a couple of 6"pvc pipes instead of a slot. This way you'll be able to get more space out of the 18's. Also i may have missed it but didn't you say power wasn't really an issue, they look to be at full excursion when turned up?Any voltage drops?
i dont consider power too much an issue. i know these subs can take more but im hoping to make up for it with a more efficient box. voltage drops are there, but not HUGE ones. i am actually looking into buying 2 deka intimidator g31 batts to back up my 200A alt.

goldtaz: advice and recommendations are always welcome //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif . ok well lets say aeros were an option...how many do i need as compared to a standard slot port? i know you dont need as many, but i have absolutely ZERO experience with them, so im not sure how they react.

tooloud4tv: care to link me to the tutorial? i wouldnt mind taking a look at it

 
nice box. if he flared the ports the other way it be 6X easier to change the tunning if he wanted too. only thing he'd have to do is change the middle tube length to play with tunning. Gotta love aeros!

 
I would try something like this, http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=246572&highlight=kicker

or this



Seems to me they just need a little more breathing room in the back of your explorer.
oh man. both those boxes are looking SWEET!!!

any more pictures of that box for the 18" sx's? or maybe a thread link? if i could find some specs just to get a general idea of what kinda space were talkin about for the 18" sx's hes running it will give me something to compare to.

tooloud4tv: i see your thread. looks awesome IMO, but i see you said something about having trouble doing the 6" ports. have you figured it out yet?

goldtaz: forgot to ask...why is the port in the middle a bad idea?

 
yea figured it out hell ive made some. at the time i had trouble with them but that thread is liek an year old now. ive figured it out and working on 12" pvc flaring

 
another thing about those boxes with the pics posted yes the port is flared with the wood. but if u think about it those ports still wont be as effective as the regular flared ports. reason: regular flared ports have both Ends of the pvc flared. and in the method above only the outside of the tubes are flared threw the wood.

 
another thing about those boxes with the pics posted yes the port is flared with the wood. but if u think about it those ports still wont be as effective as the regular flared ports. reason: regular flared ports have both Ends of the pvc flared. and in the method above only the outside of the tubes are flared threw the wood.
Yeah your right the only thing those flares do are for looks and help reduce port noise. An actual flare would be much more effective. The box for the SX's is about 10 cubes at 30hz its 20x38x34. i have some more pics on my other comp. Still I always preffered pvc over slot im not sure why, just personal prefference i guess. Although I do love a good slot port every once in a while.

 
I would use at least 4 6" ports.
"at least" im assuming means, minimum eh? what kind of a port area am i aiming for with round ports versus slot ports? for example : 12-16sq" per cubic ft for slot ports = xx-xxsq" per cubic ft for round ports

fattony: hmm, so hes using 5 cubes per? hmm, was hoping it was more than that so i could what the characteristics of that box would be on 2 18's //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif but more pics are always welcome //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

tooloud4tv: cool thanks man.

 
Umm give them more power? If they are fully-loaded 1250 to each sub ain't shit for them. My 12s at 2kw each got LOUD. And you said you don't have enough power for a 20.1, well then I assume you don't have enough power for that 2500.1 .

Do up your eletrical and give them more power, seems pretty obvious.

 
listen more power would help in an small box, but he didnt say anything about adding any power anytime soon. therefore box would be more effective. and besides, his case his box design isnt that good, (not Bashing) but the **** box is way to tall. even with more power he still wouldnt be satisfied.

 
Umm give them more power? If they are fully-loaded 1250 to each sub ain't shit for them. My 12s at 2kw each got LOUD. And you said you don't have enough power for a 20.1, well then I assume you don't have enough power for that 2500.1 .
Do up your eletrical and give them more power, seems pretty obvious.
they're not fully loaded bro. they only have the cooling option (the limiter is the suspension of the BL's as they are even stiffer than the MT's). the amp is a kx2500.1 with a birthsheet rated 2960w @ 2 ohms, being ran @ 1 ohm so the subs are getting 1500w+. just as a comparison i saw a birthsheet of an RF T30001bd put out 2840@ 2 ohms and 3758 @ 1 ohm. doesnt seem like a stretch that this kx has the capability to put out lots of power for the subs if it putting out even more @ 2 ohms than the RF did (which is being ran on 2 18" mt's).

also, the 20.1 is a lot more inefficient than the kx IME. even with a better electrical (i am getting 2 g31 deka intimidators very soon to go with the 200A alt i have) your looking at a marginal increase in power from an amp that sees 12V to giving it 14V. the only real advantage with stable voltage (for a non competitor that isnt looking for every .2db he can find) is you get more of an increase in electrical security if you will, to keep from sending too little voltage and too much amperage through a component thats not meant to handle the heat. the power gain will hardly make a difference in audible spl. i dont see a reason to dump more money into an amp that is marginally more powerful, when i can just make a more efficient box and aim for as low of an impedance rise as possible (the rise being the problem as you cant readily predict it).

i see what your saying 727kid, but i dont think power will be the issue if i design my next box around efficiency. the point of this thread was basically to get a response from people with direct experience with smaller boxes/more power, and bigger boxes/less power

tooloud4tv: no offense taken. when we first put the box into the back of the explorer, both me and my friend were like "uhhh, shit man. i dont know about this" . i actually said this in one of my threads after completing my box. i think it was something along the lines of "buyers remorse is starting to settle in quite nicely now" (in reference to buying 2 18's and trying to get them to fit in the explorer sport lol)

 
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