Setting up JL Audio 12w6 with JL audio JX 500/1

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

If you measure the load as it sits now with a meter, you should get approximately 2 ohms or 8 ohms. +/- about half an ohm (maybe even a whole ohm with a really cheap meter) because the coils probably aren't exactly 4 ohms each when read with a simple meter, and average meters aren't that precise either. So expect some "play" in the numbers.

If you get something closer to 4 ohms, it's possible you have one of the coils blown/disconnected, and will need to take the speaker out and check each coil, one at a time.

As for your Kenwood, you will need to rewire the sub at 8 ohms. Or, if you don't want to take the sub out of the box, just connect it to 1 channel of the amp. (with the Kenwood amp not bridged) You can run both coils separately, but you would need another wire running into the box.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

If you measure the load as it sits now with a meter, you should get approximately 2 ohms or 8 ohms. +/- about half an ohm (maybe even a whole ohm with a really cheap meter) because the coils probably aren't exactly 4 ohms each when read with a simple meter, and average meters aren't that precise either. So expect some "play" in the numbers.
If you get something closer to 4 ohms, it's possible you have one of the coils blown/disconnected, and will need to take the speaker out and check each coil, one at a time.

As for your Kenwood, you will need to rewire the sub at 8 ohms. Or, if you don't want to take the sub out of the box, just connect it to 1 channel of the amp. (with the Kenwood amp not bridged) You can run both coils separately, but you would need another wire running into the box.

So I am not really handy with a volt meter, but I figured I would go pick up a cheap one today "under 10 bucks" just to get me on the right path. Which setting on the meter should I use. I assume there is just a ohm settings, then even without power I should get a reading?

And knowing what I know now, seems like if I get a 2 ohm reading I should just leave it alone and wait for my amp to come thurs or friday.

Thank you very much you have been a very valuable source of information for me. I will get the volt meter today and knowing me I will pull the speaker out of the box to make sure everything is legit. "Right the first time!" One of the best sayings known to mankind. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

It should have an ohms scale. My cheaper meter just has an omega symbol (looks like a horse-shoe) Set it on a scale that includes 2 to 8 ohms. (Should be the lowest scale on the meter if it isn't an auto-ranging meter)

Also, don't try to read ohms with power going through the system. You could break your meter.

Make sure that when you read the speaker load, it's not connected to an amp. Amplifiers have resistance too, and it can cause you to get an incorrect reading.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

It should have an ohms scale. My cheaper meter just has an omega symbol (looks like a horse-shoe) Set it on a scale that includes 2 to 8 ohms. (Should be the lowest scale on the meter if it isn't an auto-ranging meter)
Also, don't try to read ohms with power going through the system. You could break your meter.

Make sure that when you read the speaker load, it's not connected to an amp. Amplifiers have resistance too, and it can cause you to get an incorrect reading.

I plan on just taking the speaker box, putting the positive from the meter into the enclosure positive and the negative from the meter into the enclosure negative terminal. No power at all.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

It should have an ohms scale. My cheaper meter just has an omega symbol (looks like a horse-shoe) Set it on a scale that includes 2 to 8 ohms. (Should be the lowest scale on the meter if it isn't an auto-ranging meter)
Also, don't try to read ohms with power going through the system. You could break your meter.

Make sure that when you read the speaker load, it's not connected to an amp. Amplifiers have resistance too, and it can cause you to get an incorrect reading.

Here we go, I went to get a volt meter today and found out the cheapest one was 19.99 so I said screw that I might at well pick up something worth wild. So I spent like 35 bucks on a digital one. I had a choice of 3 19.99 for the old school cheapy one with a temp finger that goes right to left. Or the digital one that does 4 things for 30.00 or the digital one capable of 7 functions for 35.00. I got the 7 function one. LOL I know waste of money.

Looks like its hooked up in parallel. Yay I could just leave it in the box and go with it. the .4 or so from 2.0 is what you must be talking about by play. The meter has never been zero'd out or touched at all, I just put in new batteries plugged in the leads and turned it to ohms. Then I plugged them into the speaker box terminals like in the picture. It jumped from 1.4 to 1.5 to 1.6 and back up and down.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Question for Z1NONLY:

Is this reading ok? I mean if you got a reading like this would you feel the need to pull the speaker and test either voice coil? What would you do at this point? Just wait for the amp, hook it up and go with it?

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

Question for Z1NONLY:
Is this reading ok? I mean if you got a reading like this would you feel the need to pull the speaker and test either voice coil? What would you do at this point? Just wait for the amp, hook it up and go with it?

I'd just wait for the amp, set the gain for a 2 ohm load, connect and enjoy. Reading looks good for two 4 ohm coils wired in parallel.

At 1.6 ohms it's unlikely that either coil is "open" (Not open is a good thing for a coil). If the reading had been on the high side, like 3 ohms or more, I would worry that it was just one coil reading a little low and the other was either disconnected or blown.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

I'd just wait for the amp, set the gain for a 2 ohm load, connect and enjoy. Reading looks good for two 4 ohm coils wired in parallel.
At 1.6 ohms it's unlikely that either coil is "open" (Not open is a good thing for a coil). If the reading had been on the high side, like 3 ohms or more, I would worry that it was just one coil reading a little low and the other was either disconnected or blown.

Sweet!!!!! Thank You

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

I was trying to find a amp that put out 500-600watt rms at 4 ohms because I had 4 ohm voice coils. I didn't even think 2ohms had anything to do with my shopping. I had no clue my sub with dual voice coils could only be wired in 2 and 8 ohms. Or just 4 ohms to one voice coil.

I have to admit, there must be a million people out there that don't even have a clue as to what they are shopping for. All along I should of been looking for a amp with a 2 ohm RMS vs 4. Boy do I feel stupid. At least I bought the correct amp. Just so happens the JX 500/1 is 500watt RMS @ 2ohms. And at the beginning my brain was saying I will have to get a better amp down the road cause my sub is only going to be able to take 340watt rms @4 ohms since after all I have 4 ohm voice coils.

I'm such a dummy. LMAO thanks for the edu-ma-cation. I certainly will never forget. I will post lots of pics when I get my amp on thursday. It's been cold outside and all I have is my driveway.

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

Great!

Don't forget to get some test tones for the gain adjustment.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Great!
Don't forget to get some test tones for the gain adjustment.

What do you mean, download a cd that helps me set up the amp correctly?

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Question for Z1ONLY:

I was wondering if you have any recommendation on how to set this amp up? Like specific settings? Or is it all trial and error at this point? I did read the pdf on the amp and they give you basic start points.

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

Question for Z1ONLY:
I was wondering if you have any recommendation on how to set this amp up? Like specific settings? Or is it all trial and error at this point? I did read the pdf on the amp and they give you basic start points.

To set up the gain on your amp, JL recommends the use of a volt meter (which already have) and a 50Hz test tone recorded ad 0db. (Basically as loud as it can be recorded without clipping).

This site has a bunch of test tones. You want "50Hz Sine Wave".........0db. (The "0db" is over to the right next to some other info on the file) And burn it to a cd.

Install the amp and leave the sub disconnected. Set everything to "flat". No extra bass boost or attenuation from any settings, on the HU, amp, or any other equipment like an external eq etc. (this includes a "loud" setting if your HU has that option) If you have the amp connected to a sub output, turn the sub output to 3/4 max and do the same with the volume on the HU.

You are going to adjust the gain so that it produces the amps maximum power at these settings. At 2 ohms, it takes 31.6 volts. Connect the leads of your meter to the ouput terminals on the amp and set the meter to "AC voltage" While playing the test tone, turn up the gain on the amp until you are at 31.6 volts.

You are done. Connect your sub and enjoy. If you want to turn up any bass and use it regularly, you should reset the gain.

I'll explain a little deeper in a bit (after dinner)

Disconnect any other speakers or set the fader so they aren't on while you do this test.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

To set up the gain on your amp, JL recommends the use of a volt meter (which already have) and a 50Hz test tone recorded ad 0db. (Basically as loud as it can be recorded without clipping).
This site has a bunch of test tones. You want "50Hz Sine Wave".........0db. (The "0db" is over to the right next to some other info on the file) And burn it to a cd.

Install the amp and leave the sub disconnected. Set everything to "flat". No extra bass boost or attenuation from any settings, on the HU, amp, or any other equipment like an external eq etc. (this includes a "loud" setting if your HU has that option) If you have the amp connected to a sub output, turn the sub output to 3/4 max and do the same with the volume on the HU.

You are going to adjust the gain so that it produces the amps maximum power at these settings. At 2 ohms, it takes 31.6 volts. Connect the leads of your meter to the ouput terminals on the amp and set the meter to "AC voltage" While playing the test tone, turn up the gain on the amp until you are at 31.6 volts.

You are done. Connect your sub and enjoy. If you want to turn up any bass and use it regularly, you should reset the gain.

I'll explain a little deeper in a bit (after dinner)

Disconnect any other speakers or set the fader so they aren't on while you do this test.

You broke it down to where it sounded better though. By the way I also found and downloaded this cd: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-B8DKWHBu8sN/p_503CD104/Autosound-2000-Disc-Four.html I am burning it as I type this.

Great info:

The Nine-Step Procedure

1) Disconnect the subwoofer(s) from the

amplifier’s subwoofer output connector (you

need only disconnect Pos. or Neg., not both).

2) Turn off all processing (bass/treble, loudness,

EQ, etc.) on the source unit, processors (if

used) and amplifier. Set the source unit's fader

control to center position and its subwoofer level

control to 3/4 of maximum. If connected, set the

amplifier’s Remote Level Control at maximum

(full clockwise).

3) Turn the amplifier's “Input Sens.” control all

the way down.

4) Set the source unit volume to 3/4 of full

volume. This will allow for reasonable gain

overlap with moderate clipping at full volume.

5) Using the charts on this page, determine the

target voltage for input sensitivity adjustment

according to the nominal impedance of the

speaker system connected to the amplifier

outputs. Make sure you reference the appropriate

chart for your specific JX monoblock model.

6) Verify that you have disconnected the speakers

before proceeding. Play a track with an

appropriate sine wave (50 Hz is recommended)

at 3/4 source unit volume.

7) Connect the AC voltmeter to the speaker output

connectors of the amplifier. Make sure you test

the voltage at the correct connectors (+ and –).

8) Increase the “Input Sens.” control until the

target voltage is observed with the voltmeter.

9) Once you have adjusted the amplifier to

its maximum low-distortion output level,

reconnect the speaker(s) and listen to the

system. The “Input Sens.” controls can

now be adjusted downward if the amplifier

requires attenuation to achieve the desired

system balance.

By the way this is just some silly thing I found on the net that made me LAUGH today, so I figured I would share it. I wish I could of actually heard this guy laugh.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Got the JL Audio JX 500/1 last night, DEAD ON ARRIVAL. It will not power on, just to test everything I pulled out the digital voltmeter. 12.7 v (remote), 14.3 Power Wire. These were tested at the amp. Then I finally pulled the kenwood from the attic. And connected that to my wiring to make sure and it powered right on. So I am working on how to return this amp. Do you have any idea what I may or may not try? With the amp?