Setting up JL Audio 12w6 with JL audio JX 500/1

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Its been a long time since I setup a system and I really want to do this correctly.

I bought the 12w6 yesterday and it's in a ported enclosure. I ordered the JX 500/1 today from amazon.

In the photo below, is this the proper way to connect this speaker, by doing 2 ohms from the amp?

Click to read more...

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Trying to delete this post. Sorry I double posted.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Is this the correct way to connect this speaker?

The sub can take 600watt rms. So can I put a 2ohm load from the amp to achieve at least 500 watt rms. This is what the amp can do:

Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 14.4V:

340W RMS x 1 @ 4Ω

420W RMS x 1 @ 3Ω

500W RMS x 1 @ 2Ω

Rated Continuous (RMS) Power @ 12.5V:

270W RMS x 1 @ 4Ω

340W RMS x 1 @ 3Ω

410W RMS x 1 @ 2Ω

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

if you got a d4 w6 yes that is right.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

if you got a d4 w6 yes that is right.

Would you be able to know by

a picture if its the d4?

I haven't even pulled it from the box yet. Bought it on craigslist, cartoys tested it.

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

Check model number on back of the sub.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Check model number on back of the sub.

Well I knew that(LOL), I just didn't really want to take the sub out of the box just yet. Not until I get the amp later this week. So how many different models were made of the 12w6 series. D1? D2? D3? D4? Do they all looks identical on the outside?

 

[brodeisel 10+ year member]

Id pull it out and check

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

I'm not sure but I assumed the version 1 had the JL Audio written across the front of the subwoofer, and the version 2 which I assume is the D4 did not. So correct me if I am wrong this has to at least be version 2. I don't know how many version's of the w6 there are?

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

The D-4 is the only model listed for 12 inch W6v2's on JL's website. There discontinued list only has v1 W6's so I'm thinking you have a D-4 (version 2) or some sort of custom job.

That's the good news. The bad news is we still don't know how your two 4 ohm coils are wired. They come from the factory with the VC's connected in parallel. (2 ohms)

But they could be connected at 8 ohms.

Do you have access to both coils from the outside of the box or do you have to get to the speakers to wire them per your graph anyway?

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

The D-4 is the only model listed for 12 inch W6v2's on JL's website. There discontinued list only has v1 W6's so I'm thinking you have a D-4 (version 2) or some sort of custom job.
That's the good news. The bad news is we still don't know how your two 4 ohm coils are wired. They come from the factory with the VC's connected in parallel. (2 ohms)

But they could be connected at 8 ohms.

Do you have access to both coils from the outside of the box or do you have to get to the speakers to wire them per your graph anyway?

The guy I bought it from didn't know too much, he said he had a mono alpine amp hooked up to it. He said Cartoys did the entire job. There are only 2 terminals on the speaker box. Positive and Negative. So by that info alone I am assuming they probably had it connected like in the original diagram I uploaded. But of course I would be an idiot not to pull the speaker out to check before I actually wire the amp up. But yeah v2 seems like the only option(which I am tickled pink) I got the box and speaker for 190 dollars. Just bought the JX 500/1 amp today for 189.00 free ship. I got a 2 farad cap, and a 4 gauge wire set both for 80.00. So should be set up once I figure out how to connect this speaker to the amp.

So you know on all these JL audio 500/1 amps there are 2 positive and 2 negative speaker out's, what is the deal with that? Does that have anything to do with how you get the load to 2 ohms? Or is that just a switch on the amp. I mean which positive and negative am I going to use from the amp?

 

[Z1NONLY 10+ year member]

Both positives are just one positive terminal with two connection points, same for the negatives. (for ease of connecting two subs and probably because it's cheaper to use the same speaker connecters they use on other amps rather than have a different connection point built for the mono amps)

Sounds like you got good deals on the amp and sub. You could just use a meter to check the load but since the speaker is used, I would want to check each coil individually and visually inspect the spider/tinsel leads. (although JL has their leads insulated on the W6v2's so there shouldn't be much to see.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Both positives are just one positive terminal with two connection points, same for the negatives. (for ease of connecting two subs and probably because it's cheaper to use the same speaker connecters they use on other amps rather than have a different connection point built for the mono amps)
Sounds like you got good deals on the amp and sub. You could just use a meter to check the load but since the speaker is used, I would want to check each coil individually and visually inspect the spider/tinsel leads. (although JL has their leads insulated on the W6v2's so there shouldn't be much to see.

So what your saying, is I can use a volt meter and just check the positive and negative on the speaker box terminals to know how the sub is wired(parallell or serial)? It's possible to check the load through the enclosure terminals? I would just do that, I believe everything in the box is fine, since cartoys set it up to begin with. The only reason I am even hesitant to pull the speaker is I don't want to strip out any of the drilled holes. I have been known to strip a few holes out, and puncture a few speakers in the past.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Yeah it would be nice to be able to check the load without removing the sub, but I of course will without an issue if need be. Please explain how if at all possible?

This looks like a nice little diagram to follow.

In a parallel hook-up the driver's impedance will be half that of each individual coil (a dual 4 ohm speaker would be a 2 ohm speaker in parallel) OMG I am getting it.

A series hook-up results in twice the impedance of each single coil (a dual 4 ohm speaker results in 8 ohms if its coils are wired in series.)

So what I am getting out of this I am going to be connecting my 12w6 v2 d4 in Parallell, leaving a 2 ohm load from the amp which is exactly what I want from the JX 500/1 since I can get 500 watt rms from this amp at 2 ohms.

 

[tommyarmour 10+ year member]

Now I know I am jumping around a little bit, I am just curious if I find time to do the wiring before I get my JX 500/1, I have a Kenwood KAC-7203 sitting in the attic, Now this amp is slightly different it can do 500w rms @ 4ohms(bridged). Would that mean I would have to run the wires independently to the sub? I would have to keep the voice coils at 4 ohms correct? That would mean I could not do this parallell(2ohm) or serial (8ohm). Slightly confused as to how to connect this amp to the sub also.

I'm getting it, I might just need a little more guidance. Here is the PDF for the Kenwood amp. http://images.kenwood.eu/files/prod/750/5/KAC-7203_(EN).pdf