serious voltage drop and dimming

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

I looked up mean green and I think I'm going to go with 1. $369.00 is kinda steep but I guess you pay for what you want. will this make me hit harder or just keep me from dimming? thanks to you all that gave me good advice and why wouldn't the shop that sold me and installed all this didn't recommend it?

most shops are r-tards //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif They usually sell you shit that they can bill you to easily slap in your car - not be a functioning part of your vehicle. They'd rather put stuff in, take your money and send you on your way.

 

[bigbang 10+ year member]

The capacitors will replenish themselves before the redtops will, regardless of how many are wired in parallel. Path of least resistance, the lowest resistance storage medium will fill first. And the capacitor will also be wired in parallel with the batteries, so the net resistance decreases. So with .003, .003. and .0015 all in paralel, which one delivers first and recieves first? Nothing is ever hooked in series, the resistances would all just add, and the last component in the line would would steal from the others.

 

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

SHUT THE **** UP. YOUR WRONG AND your not proving any points except that your ignorant and hard-headed

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

you will dim almost no matter what.

dimming is the act of dropping voltage and seeing it in your lights. your lights run brighter @ 14v than they do @ 12 volts.

an alternator doesnt put out that 200A @ 14 volts. as the load gets bigger the alternator voltage drops as the current increases. you will still dim, however what you dont want is to have the system maxing out the alternator and then also taking a shit load of power from your batteries as well.

if you want to completely stop dimming you will need more than just a couple red tops and an HO alt. the cap's only good use is to supply that quick power while the alternators voltage regulator has time to adjust. the HO alt plus a couple kinetik hc2400's or similar batteries will help keep the voltage up and only then will it be worthwhile to even try a cap (and thats only to stop that initial dim that happens while the alt tries to catch up). if you want no dimming whatsoever your solution is to no voltage drops and with an amp like the RF, your gonna need a serious electrical system.

let me ask you something...how much did you spend on this current system? amps subs etc

and then think about how little the electrical cost is to protect your equipment as compared to what youve spent

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

The capacitors will replenish themselves before the redtops will, regardless of how many are wired in parallel. Path of least resistance, the lowest resistance storage medium will fill first. And the capacitor will also be wired in parallel with the batteries, so the net resistance decreases. So with .003, .003. and .0015 all in paralel, which one delivers first and recieves first? Nothing is ever hooked in series, the resistances would all just add, and the last component in the line would would steal from the others.

so what exactly is the point of charging the capacitor up if you cant charge your batts....

the capacitor serves no purpose in this system in its current state...period

 

[bigbang 10+ year member]

SHUT THE **** UP. YOUR WRONG AND your not proving any points except that your ignorant and hard-headed

Stong argument, I think you need to spend more time talking to George.

 

[bk12321 10+ year member]

I looked up mean green and I think I'm going to go with 1. $369.00 is kinda steep but I guess you pay for what you want. will this make me hit harder or just keep me from dimming? thanks to you all that gave me good advice and why wouldn't the shop that sold me and installed all this didn't recommend it?

Say they told you you needed a big *** alternator BEFORE you bought the stuff, and quoted you an extra $500 on TOP of what you were paying for all the subs/amps/etc, you would be much less inclined to buy the stuff.

All they wanna do is sell stuff and make money, they dont care if it ****s up your car or not.

 

[bigbang 10+ year member]

so what exactly is the point of charging the capacitor up if you cant charge your batts....

the capacitor serves no purpose in this system in its current state...period

Everything will be charged properly with a high current alternator, Its just that a cap is amost always lower resistance than a battery and delivers the current just that split second faster than the batteries to the begining of the an amplifiers output stage current draw. Impulse, who would win, a heavy hitting boxer or ninja? Velocity or Mass, current desity (Amps) or duration of time before deliver (which is not just a factor of voltage, but a combination of voltage and resistance) . A large cap, battery, and alternator supplement one another. Its like having the boxers strength, and the ninjas speed. Lame example, oh well.

 

[Pickler 10+ year member]

cool lets spend $550 on 10 caps when i could buy an HO alt for cheaper that will help more than those could ever wish to

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[bigchevyboy 10+ year member]

thanks you al for the incite and I didn't mean to start an argument. anybody got a mean green that wil fit my car for sale?

 

[bigbang 10+ year member]

Electrons have a mass asociated to them. Regardless of the size alternator, if the bateries and cap are topped off, current flow within the wire has slowed to a crawl. When the amplifier hits, first the current comes from its own capacitor bank. Next it would come from an external cap or battery installed nearby. By then this has created a demand for power, a negative pressure if you will through the 15 feet of wire to the cars alternator and other battery. This process takes time, like starting a river to flow from a standstill. Just cause your alternator is cranking, it doesn't mean you have a continuous flow of its max amp output flowing through your wire at all times. If it did, you would blow fuses and create a high flowing whirlpool of wasted energy. Also, theres a reason that capacitors operate at a higher voltage. Lower resistance+ higher voltage equals a much faster discharge. And I dont care if you had an infinite amount of batteries in parrallel. In theory the resistance would drop down to zero, which would equate to almost instantaneous delivery, but in practice, even in that infinite aray, if you replaced a single battery with a capacitor, it would beat them all to the punch. A capacitor doesnt really on chemical reactions, it delivers current through a faster process at a higher voltage, it suplements speed of delivery. If you had an alternator which could increase its output voltage instantaneously in unison with an amplifiers demands, then it could possibly beat the battery and capacitor to the punch.

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

so what exactly is the point of charging the capacitor up if you cant charge your batts....the capacitor serves no purpose in this system in its current state...period

Everything will be charged properly with a high current alternator, Its just that a cap is amost always lower resistance than a battery and delivers the current just that split second faster than the batteries to the begining of the an amplifiers output stage current draw. Impulse, who would win, a heavy hitting boxer or ninja? Velocity or Mass, current desity (Amps) or duration of time before deliver (which is not just a factor of voltage, but a combination of voltage and resistance) . A large cap, battery, and alternator supplement one another. Its like having the boxers strength, and the ninjas speed. Lame example, oh well.

which is why i suggested an HO alt as the first line of defense.

like i said earlier a capacitor has no place in his current system. hes trying rebuild his home without putting out the first first, if you will.

 

[bigchevyboy 10+ year member]

nobody still told me if the mean green upgrade will make me hit harder or be louder

 

[IgnoreMe 5,000+ posts]

nobody still told me if the mean green upgrade will make me hit harder or be louder

to the ear, probably not. however what it will accomplish is a good bit less voltage drop.

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

nobody still told me if the mean green upgrade will make me hit harder or be louder

its more of a saftey issue really.....low voltage dips kill FETs (Field Effect Transistors) which are the current switiching devices in your amps. However, having a consistant voltage during transient current/voltage requirements to your amp will produce consistant SPL measurements and probably a noteable "clearer" SQ aspect at high volumes.