serious voltage drop and dimming

don't know amps on stock amp but I called my local battery and alterntor stor and they say that the biggest they have for my car is 140, is this gonna work for what I got going. should I have opted and got the recommended 25 farad cap for the t30001bd?
dont get a cap, but with those 3 amps ur running, I would opt for something a little higher alternator-wise, especially if you plan on upgrading later.

check around online there are PLENTY of places you can find some juicy amps.

 
youll need more than 140amp alt, that 3000d prolly pulls more than 160alts itself //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif

read your voltage while running and playing your music, i bet its under 12volts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
youll need more than 140amp alt, that 3000d prolly pulls more than 160alts itself //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif
read your voltage while running and playing your music, i bet its under 12volts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Yeah with voltage drops like that your electrical system probably isnt happy.

Just using ohms law, I roughly calculated the current draw of 3700 watts at 13.8v to be about 270 amps of current... by itself. That is before taking into consideration all of the other components of your car that need power as well.

Of course, that is if all amps are maxed out and you are constantly using all 3700 watts (or more), but you get the idea.

 
Capacitors! I don't care what you all think, they help!
please shut up

capacitor is only a shitty storage for power. With two red tops he has enough storage for the power just not enough alternator to pump it in at a constant rate

 
thats because you're retarded.
Internal resistance optima red top: .003ohms

Internal resistance stinger carbon electrolyte cap: .0015ohm

resistance of 0 gauge wire over 15 feet

My point is that even if you had a 1000 amp alternator, it still takes time for the current to reach the amplifier. A battery close to the amp of course helps, but a chemical reaction takes longer to release electrons than if stored in foil and electrolyte. Most all amps have capacitance, why do they bother? To supply power right when the bass hits. If you played a continous note, the cap would remain discharged and do nothing. Its when the amp requires a fast impulse of electricity that capacitance kicks in. Of course an alternator upgrade is much more important, you actually need a source of power to fuel all the bateries, cap and such, and keep them topped off over long durations. But where capacitance helps is at dynamic peaks that require a surge quicker than that provided by the electric system. A properly designed amp will supply current its own current for a short length of time until until its own bank is depleated, and an external capacitor is just another buffer zone until the rest catches up. I dont care how big an alternator is, if it shares its power with an array of high power amps, there will be fluctuations in current, and a cap will help equalize the demand. After all, when you draw a couple hundred amps, its going to come from the path of least resistance.

 
Internal resistance optima red top: .003ohmsInternal resistance stinger carbon electrolyte cap: .0015ohm

resistance of 0 gauge wire over 15 feet

My point is that even if you had a 1000 amp alternator, it still takes time for the current to reach the amplifier. A battery close to the amp of course helps, but a chemical reaction takes longer to release electrons than if stored in foil and electrolyte. Most all amps have capacitance, why do they bother? To supply power right when the bass hits. If you played a continous note, the cap would remain discharged and do nothing. Its when the amp requires a fast impulse of electricity that capacitance kicks in. Of course an alternator upgrade is much more important, you actually need a source of power to fuel all the bateries, cap and such, and keep them topped off over long durations. But where capacitance helps is at dynamic peaks that require a surge quicker than that provided by the electric system. A properly designed amp will supply current its own current for a short length of time until until its own bank is depleated, and an external capacitor is just another buffer zone until the rest catches up. I dont care how big an alternator is, if it shares its power with an array of high power amps, there will be fluctuations in current, and a cap will help equalize the demand. After all, when you draw a couple hundred amps, its going to come from the path of least resistance.
so basically they're great for making rail guns but serve no practical purpose for car audio. Thanx for proving my point for yourself

what im saying is that the difference in the gap of time between the two is irrelevant due to the different acoustic properties of your vehicle which will have much more influence on the timing of the noise

 
Internal resistance optima red top: .003ohmsInternal resistance stinger carbon electrolyte cap: .0015ohm

resistance of 0 gauge wire over 15 feet

My point is that even if you had a 1000 amp alternator, it still takes time for the current to reach the amplifier. A battery close to the amp of course helps, but a chemical reaction takes longer to release electrons than if stored in foil and electrolyte. Most all amps have capacitance, why do they bother? To supply power right when the bass hits. If you played a continous note, the cap would remain discharged and do nothing. Its when the amp requires a fast impulse of electricity that capacitance kicks in. Of course an alternator upgrade is much more important, you actually need a source of power to fuel all the bateries, cap and such, and keep them topped off over long durations. But where capacitance helps is at dynamic peaks that require a surge quicker than that provided by the electric system. A properly designed amp will supply current its own current for a short length of time until until its own bank is depleated, and an external capacitor is just another buffer zone until the rest catches up. I dont care how big an alternator is, if it shares its power with an array of high power amps, there will be fluctuations in current, and a cap will help equalize the demand. After all, when you draw a couple hundred amps, its going to come from the path of least resistance.
yea but your redtops are going to be wired in parallel....

2 batteries wired in parallel with 0.003 ohms resistance each = 0.0015 ohms....yet with a shit load more reserve than a cap..

 
I looked up mean green and I think I'm going to go with 1. $369.00 is kinda steep but I guess you pay for what you want. will this make me hit harder or just keep me from dimming? thanks to you all that gave me good advice and why wouldn't the shop that sold me and installed all this didn't recommend it?

 
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