SAVING up 1500-2000, what subs recomended?

As for the woofers I state as blowing per burp, I'm just going by what paul told me, lol. 48Hz isn't exactly a low freq either, but seeing as his resonance freq is 35 like we were building for, why were you tuning his boxes in the 40's? Especially knowing he does DB? And I'm not upset about not building his stuff anymore, at least your getting paid in one form or another. But the fact is, Paul never paid off the 21's he gave them to you for credit but they were not his, Call Nick at incriminator and ask him what Phil in VA has bought from him and guess what, he'll say a pair of 21" DP's and a set of recones.... Also, It was you who I am aware of melted the coil's in your DB MECA run, and chris gregory and another guy he built for both had nightshade 18 spiders detach from the basket on burps, and neither were using what I consider to be to much power for that sub on a burp. And as for my posting in your other thread, Paul told me shortly after the post went up that you were simply selling them for him and the proceeds did in fact go to me so, seems like theres a few things you need to get straight with Paul as well, unless you simply dont care t help someone screw someone else? lol.
To answer your first question... when a box is the port height or a similar distance away from the hatch it loads off the hatch creating an effectively longer port. In Paul's Jeep the box was also pretty close to the ceiling further extending the effective port length in the application. On paper tuning does not tell you what happens in a vehicle - the box was designed with this in mind.

As for the Nightshades -- I have taken care of anyone that had build related issues with the Nightshades -- and we have updated them numerous times to increase durability. Including producing spider bolt down rings down the road from us in town @ a laser cutting facility and numerous changes to assembly techniques and adhesives. Pretty soon I'll have an all new motor for the Nightshade along with several other new parts (similar to what I did on the SA-12) to increase the durability of all the glue joints.

As for my blowing Nightshades at a MECA show -- try running a pair of 3000s @ 1/2 ohm per woofer on 18v and see how long most coils last on music. Not long - you will likely explode the wire itself from over-current well before you thermal it (which is what I did - the wire burnt like a fuse).

You have been mis-informed about the SA-12s in Paul's setup... if he blew "1 to 3" per burp then he would have blown hundreds of them due to the number of shows he attends. It is nowhere near that -- on that note... damages of drivers in the NEW setup are only TWO total. And those were most likely damaged before being installed into the new setup and simply were finished off in there after adding the third amp.

If that is the case on the 21s then we have both been mislead and it is something that needs to be worked out immediately.

 
lol, I build every alignment known, I was just poking fun because it wasnt supposed to be a standard 4th order, it was supposed to be a clamshell, but they couldn't get it to form pressure so they put a face on it and turned it into a typical 4th, lol. Tuned improperly none the less.

 
How are the triple joints seperating from the cones without the coils bottoming out, and seeing that he now has 7200rms of woofers I'd imagine it is more reliable since he's not even running them at 2x rms, he's making constant trips to see ya, was just there tuesday I believe, for the woofer failure at the MECA show in clinics (if he's telling me the truth which I tend to believe him on that one)
I'm not the one looking silly anymore, saleing them to me.... ask Sound_Around whos' 21's those were... You'll find no exaggerations in anything I have said if you take the time to ask around instead of jumping to conclusions and taking one person's word over the other instead of doing a little research. Ant the most reliable set he had was the Orion HCCA 12.2's, not a single failure running 5600 per, 151.7 @ 38Hz with the pair in 11cubes @ 37Hz
Regarding the Orions... that is also almost 4 dB down from his current setup. I qualified my statement with "at this SPL level"

The triple joints were not designed with Paul's level of abuse constantly on the original run -- I've addressed that now so that they can withstand several thousand watt burps. For that matter the original joints are not exactly weak... Team Sundown Derrick has four on a 3500D and has yet to damage one and he is in the 150s.

 
Regarding the Orions... that is also almost 4 dB down from his current setup. I qualified my statement with "at this SPL level"
The triple joints were not designed with Paul's level of abuse constantly on the original run -- I've addressed that now so that they can withstand several thousand watt burps. For that matter the original joints are not exactly weak... Team Sundown Derrick has four on a 3500D and has yet to damage one and he is in the 150s.
True true, but thats 1 pair of 12's not 6 pairs, lol. PM coming your way.

 
If you want my opinion all the subs that have been listed this far are descent. I am part of a team in Wisconsin that most memeber of run DD.... or digital design, they are hand made in the US and are unbelievable. So if you have 2 grand to spend on just subwoofers get 2 15" DD9515's and i will guarentee you love them. My buddy has this set up in a 4 door car and hits over a 153 db..... good luck and hope you make the right choice......

 
..... The SSA Icons are nice for the price but I wouldn't call them on par with IA DP's or subs of that caliber.....

It is not about being on par they are aimed for a different focus, it is that the Icons are not SPL drivers like the rest of the models mentioned in this thread.

 
If you want my opinion all the subs that have been listed this far are descent. I am part of a team in Wisconsin that most memeber of run DD.... or digital design, they are hand made in the US and are unbelievable. So if you have 2 grand to spend on just subwoofers get 2 15" DD9515's and i will guarentee you love them. My buddy has this set up in a 4 door car and hits over a 153 db..... good luck and hope you make the right choice......
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i havent read anything on this thread so probably already been said but dont drop 2 grand on subs then not have electrical to back it up. i just dont see the point in that unless ur going to buy the electrical at the same time.

 
your right, you havent read anything in this thread =) . as stated earlier i have UP to 2 grand to drop on subs. being i am on a limited income(highschool student) i am going to put my system together one component at a time.

even if this means the subs sit for a while.

got the headunit, got the doors, got the highs amps, have a h.o alt with a total of 2000 Cranking amps,

plan on upgrading to a bigger battery bank and possibly adding another alt.

 
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