Rear deck & front spkrs VS front only

You will find the Anarchys on diysoundgroup.com. There are a pair of 4 ohm on diyma for $125 shipped right now, and I’d offer $100 and see if you can get a deal. Super low Qts doesn’t do all that well in doors, look a bit higher (refer to Audiofrog GB’s, which are very highly regarded). The flutes are a decent deal, but I feel they are a little muddy. SB Acoustics are a great midbass, as well as Dayton. If you are looking at 8’s, look for JL ZR800’s used. They are also some of the best MB around, and they don’t make them anymore. There is a pair on FB (Mike Wirths) for $200, which is a steal, depending on condition. You could look for Dynaudio MW172’s as well, if you can find a pair, they will be about $300, but well worth it. I don’t understand why you would run 4 components in each door, if you buy the right components, you will only need one set, and you can upgrade your amps with the extra money. Your dsp will need to have one output channel for each individual driver, subs included, so if you run a 3-way front stage plus subs, you need an 8 channel dsp.
Hi Beak!  thank you for your input and your suggestions on the speakers, it is appreciated.  As far as putting 4 in the door, you may be right on the 3 and done, but as I am still learning and reading as much as I can with the time I have, I am not sure what the "right" set of speakers for me is at the moment.  I went from knowing about the mainstream brands to HOLYSHIT HOW MANY MORE SPEAKER COMPANIES CAN THERE BE!!! lol.  I like a lot of midbass, I like detailed highs but not tin sounding or so bright, ( i know this can be subjective to the individual ) so my thinking was adding another 6.5' or an 8 would maybe give me the mid bass sound I was looking for, .  Im in Virginia, in an area that used to be loaded with audio stores and they even had huge competitions at the big parks here with all the big names etc all the time, to now like two shops that do it  ( mainly just install stuff ) and they dont carry much non mainstream stuff.  So I do not get a chance to listen to a lot of non Alpine, kenwood etc.  So I am somewhat relying on reviews of the speakers and peoples personal input to guide my decisions and I am soaking up as much info as I can along the way.  Now I do understand your point of the 3 or 4 speakers thing, me adding an 8 would almost be like saying my 6.5 ***** so bad I had to add an 8 to get what I wanted instead of putting the correct 6.5 in.  I do understand what you mean and appreciate your input, when I have a little more time this evening I will check out the speakers you mentioned ( I think I actually saw those JL on FB last night lol ).  Thanks again, and anyone that has input or suggestions feel free to chime in.  It really does help me out a lot!

 
Hi Beak!  thank you for your input and your suggestions on the speakers, it is appreciated.  As far as putting 4 in the door, you may be right on the 3 and done, but as I am still learning and reading as much as I can with the time I have, I am not sure what the "right" set of speakers for me is at the moment.  I went from knowing about the mainstream brands to HOLYSHIT HOW MANY MORE SPEAKER COMPANIES CAN THERE BE!!! lol.  I like a lot of midbass, I like detailed highs but not tin sounding or so bright, ( i know this can be subjective to the individual ) so my thinking was adding another 6.5' or an 8 would maybe give me the mid bass sound I was looking for, .  Im in Virginia, in an area that used to be loaded with audio stores and they even had huge competitions at the big parks here with all the big names etc all the time, to now like two shops that do it  ( mainly just install stuff ) and they dont carry much non mainstream stuff.  So I do not get a chance to listen to a lot of non Alpine, kenwood etc.  So I am somewhat relying on reviews of the speakers and peoples personal input to guide my decisions and I am soaking up as much info as I can along the way.  Now I do understand your point of the 3 or 4 speakers thing, me adding an 8 would almost be like saying my 6.5 ***** so bad I had to add an 8 to get what I wanted instead of putting the correct 6.5 in.  I do understand what you mean and appreciate your input, when I have a little more time this evening I will check out the speakers you mentioned ( I think I actually saw those JL on FB last night lol ).  Thanks again, and anyone that has input or suggestions feel free to chime in.  It really does help me out a lot!
If you go to an 8, you are not saying your 6.5 *****. If we could all fit an 8 in our doors or kick panels, we would all be running them! The Anarchy would still be my top choice for pure midbass, but only if you are running 3-way. You don’t want it playing above 1k, but it will move sheet metal with enough clean power, and it’s a monster value. When you choose your mids and tweets, try to keep the sensitivity somewhat close to the the sensitivity of your midbass, otherwise you will be cutting a lot of top end to make it not overpower your midbass. Listen to the recommendations of these guys. A lot of them like loud and clean, as do I (just not as loud as some of them anymore). They have seen and heard a myriad of equipment, and seen the trials and failures of lots of equipment. Remember though, ultimately it is your system, and you have to live with your choices, so choose what you want. While you are deciding on equipment, I would be loading up and installing sound deadener, and preparing your ride to sound tight and right. That will be a whole ‘nother monster to tackle, and will help prepare you for a quick, clean, safe install. I would also be grabbing the necessities, like power wire, speaker wire, rca’s, distribution blocks, fuse blocks, fuses, etc. All the little stuff it takes, because it will surprise you how much that costs. Good luck, we are here if you you need us!

 
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If you go to an 8, you are not saying your 6.5 *****. If we could all fit an 8 in our doors or kick panels, we would all be running them! The Anarchy would still be my top choice for pure midbass, but only if you are running 3-way. You don’t want it playing above 1k, but it will move sheet metal with enough clean power, and it’s a monster value. When you choose your mids and tweets, try to keep the sensitivity somewhat close to the the sensitivity of your midbass, otherwise you will be cutting a lot of top end to make it not overpower your midbass. Listen to the recommendations of these guys. A lot of them like loud and clean, as do I (just not as loud as some of them anymore). They have seen and heard a myriad of equipment, and seen the trials and failures of lots of equipment. Remember though, ultimately it is your system, and you have to live with your choices, so choose what you want. While you are deciding on equipment, I would be loading up and installing sound deadener, and preparing your ride to sound tight and right. That will be a whole ‘nother monster to tackle, and will help prepare you for a quick, clean, safe install. I would also be grabbing the necessities, like power wire, speaker wire, rca’s, distribution blocks, fuse blocks, fuses, etc. All the little stuff it takes, because it will surprise you how much that costs. Good luck, we are here if you you need us!
Hey, I posted a ton of stuff but evidently it did not actually post lol.  The anarchy mid, is it the 704?  This one? https://www.diysoundgroup.com/anarchy7-4ohm.html

I have already done deadening in trunk and trunk hatch, doors, and floor.  I need to still do the rear deck and the headliner and maybe one more layer in the trunk.  Was waiting till I got the materials for my headliner, as it is sagging some, to do that and the other at the same time.  I am going to upgrade the alternator as well, but waiting to see how many amps I will really need before grabbing one as they can get pricey.

I checked out some of the Audiofrog stuff, it may be out of my price range, but I may have been looking at the wrong stuff.  It was the GB series and just the mid was like 300 bucks.  I did find some of the Dynaudios but the prices on them are over 300 by a good bit now.  Again though, I may not be looking in the right places for some of these things.  I did find a pair of the JLs but they were already sold.  I will look again a little later this evening and see what else I can find.  Thanks again for the input, I do appreciate it!  Any other comments or suggestions are welcome!!

 
Jeffdachef said:
cheap route 1

buy foam baffles for your rear deck, you wont have that much midbass but the speaker will be protected. Put your rear speakers on head unit power and bridge your amp to your fronts. Total cost 20 bucks and easy AF.

Cheap route 2 remove the rear speakers so there's a hole in the rear deck leading into the cabin so you get more bass.   Put both component sets to your front door or one in the kick panel and one in your door total cost around 100 bucks for one of those Q logic Kick panel universal enclosures or FREE if you dont care and you are willing to gut your doors and mount it on your doors, make some wooden or abs panels for a few bucks more. If your head unit is a pioneer head unit with active network capabilities, ditch the passive crossover on those component sets and run active tweets on channel 1 and 2, mids on channel 3 and 4.
Quick hijack questions. If you run rears off of deck power while running active on a pioneer network,  are they crossed over or are the bass frequencies cut in some way.also is there a way to make any adjustments to the sound of the rears.

 
One other thing, I was wondering what line of amps to look at.  I was looking at some of the PPI amps and they seem to do well on the dyno.  I also see people using class D full range for fronts as well now.  Is that the way to go now a days? 

 
One other thing, I was wondering what line of amps to look at.  I was looking at some of the PPI amps and they seem to do well on the dyno.  I also see people using class D full range for fronts as well now.  Is that the way to go now a days? 
yes it is. The PPI 900.4s are long gone in production so no more ppi. Whats good now is the pioneer gm 8704.  The 8604 were monsters on the dyno too and the 8704 is the newer generation and they test very well too. Just grab two.   One for midrange and tweeter. The other one bridged to midbass.

 
yes it is. The PPI 900.4s are long gone in production so no more ppi. Whats good now is the pioneer gm 8704.  The 8604 were monsters on the dyno too and the 8704 is the newer generation and they test very well too. Just grab two.   One for midrange and tweeter. The other one bridged to midbass.
Ya they look pretty good actually.  Sonic still has the 8604 for sale, as well as the 8704 of course, both still same price and stat wise look identical.  Still go with 8704s?  I have to admit it would be nice to actually buy something for my setup to actually feel like I am getting somewhere lol.  I am still looking at speakers, but I didnt get a confirmation if the Anarchy I linked was the right one or not.  I linked the 704, it was the only one that was close Anarchy 7 inch woofer by Denovo Audio .  No luck on the Alpine X tweeters, any other suggestions on those and the midrange?  I am a little unsure on what size the midrange should be with a 3 way setup as I have always used component sets. I really appreciate you guys helping me out!  Thanks again!

 
Ya they look pretty good actually.  Sonic still has the 8604 for sale, as well as the 8704 of course, both still same price and stat wise look identical.  Still go with 8704s?  I have to admit it would be nice to actually buy something for my setup to actually feel like I am getting somewhere lol.  I am still looking at speakers, but I didnt get a confirmation if the Anarchy I linked was the right one or not.  I linked the 704, it was the only one that was close Anarchy 7 inch woofer by Denovo Audio .  No luck on the Alpine X tweeters, any other suggestions on those and the midrange?  I am a little unsure on what size the midrange should be with a 3 way setup as I have always used component sets. I really appreciate you guys helping me out!  Thanks again!
Tweeters you have these options, the alpine is really damn good SQ wise and still gets pretty loud more SQ as in better sound stage and resolution, smoother frequency response aka less EQ needed off the bat. The massive CT2s a slightly less SQ but sounds really good after some slight EQ cuts around 5khz to 8khz range a lot of members on here like their performance. These ct2s however can get a lot louder than the alpines, more durable aka keeping up with 150+DB sound systems easy.  The alpine is limited to 148ish db systems but considering your sub setup, you arent anywhere near the those levels lol.  One thing to consider is the massives have swivel mount tweeter pods included in the kit while the alpine is just the tweeters alone.  Power, i'd give the alpine 100-125 watts. the massive can handle 150-200 easy.  

https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-CT2II-Tweeter-Crossovers/dp/B00NBC25UM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721

the anarchy 7 is fine. the low FS makes it a midbass monster. I personally use crescendo PWX as midbass. with a lot of power to them and a good crossover, they can really pound your doors. You definitely would want to bridge a 4 channel to either the exodus or the crescendo and give them unlimited amounts of power for some really good results.  The 100 rms ratings are a joke, they take soo much more and sound better and better the more you throw at them. I threw 400 rms to them each once but i had to downsize amps due to space reasons and mines are getting 250 rms each atm.

https://www.diysoundgroup.com/speaker-parts/speaker-components/woofers/anarchy7-4ohm.html

http://store.crescendoaudio.com/pwx-8-midrange-speaker/

As for midrange If you have money left for it, I whole heartedly recommend these.  Loud as fk and sounds clean just not too good on the midbass section but you are doing 3 way lol. If you can, you can bridge an amp to these too and get them crazy screaming loud, they handle loads of power as well.

http://store.crescendoaudio.com/un-65-6-5-loudspeaker/

here's a video of my midbass lol




 
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Hey, I posted a ton of stuff but evidently it did not actually post lol.  The anarchy mid, is it the 704?  This one? https://www.diysoundgroup.com/anarchy7-4ohm.html

I have already done deadening in trunk and trunk hatch, doors, and floor.  I need to still do the rear deck and the headliner and maybe one more layer in the trunk.  Was waiting till I got the materials for my headliner, as it is sagging some, to do that and the other at the same time.  I am going to upgrade the alternator as well, but waiting to see how many amps I will really need before grabbing one as they can get pricey.

I checked out some of the Audiofrog stuff, it may be out of my price range, but I may have been looking at the wrong stuff.  It was the GB series and just the mid was like 300 bucks.  I did find some of the Dynaudios but the prices on them are over 300 by a good bit now.  Again though, I may not be looking in the right places for some of these things.  I did find a pair of the JLs but they were already sold.  I will look again a little later this evening and see what else I can find.  Thanks again for the input, I do appreciate it!  Any other comments or suggestions are welcome!!
That is the correct Anarchy. There’s a pair on diyma for $125 shipped. As for Audiofrog, I didn’t suggest buying them, simply looking at how the sensitivity matches between the midbass, mids, and tweets of the GB 60, 25, and 10. I was trying to suggest that you match sensitivity of your front stage.

Another driver you should seriously consider is the Stevens Audio MB-8. Either the 2 ohm or 4 ohm, depending on what your amp can handle. If going 3-way, I would suggest the Faital Pro 3FE22, based on the sensitivity of both. I’m still looking for tweets for this set up (I have these, waiting to go in a daily driver, once I find my next daily driver.)

 
That is the correct Anarchy. There’s a pair on diyma for $125 shipped. As for Audiofrog, I didn’t suggest buying them, simply looking at how the sensitivity matches between the midbass, mids, and tweets of the GB 60, 25, and 10. I was trying to suggest that you match sensitivity of your front stage.

Another driver you should seriously consider is the Stevens Audio MB-8. Either the 2 ohm or 4 ohm, depending on what your amp can handle. If going 3-way, I would suggest the Faital Pro 3FE22, based on the sensitivity of both. I’m still looking for tweets for this set up (I have these, waiting to go in a daily driver, once I find my next daily driver.)
actually the sensitivity has to be pretty low when it comes to a dedicated mdibass. Low sensitivity means higher mms and lower FS which allows the driver to play deep however it requires power and lots of it.  Most high sensitivity drivers aka pa drivers are pretty bad at playing deep midbass. Only exception i've seen so far is pwx.   Its the same as the subwoofer's sensitivity, its FS and MMS in a sense. You have some really low sensitivity subs that still get really loud in a proper box on proper power, same with midbass.

 
You are correct, Jeff, of course. I guess I didn’t see where he wasn’t running a sub. OP, If you are running a sub, and it will not run up to 80 or so to meet the MB-8’s, then you should not use them. I believe Eric designed these to give all you want, down to about 70Hz, but if you aren’t running a sub and need to play down to like 40Hz with authority,  stick to earlier mentioned suggestions.

 
3 hours ago, Jeffdachef said:

Tweeters you have these options, the alpine is really damn good SQ wise and still gets pretty loud more SQ as in better sound stage and resolution, smoother frequency response aka less EQ needed off the bat. The massive CT2s a slightly less SQ but sounds really good after some slight EQ cuts around 5khz to 8khz range a lot of members on here like their performance. These ct2s however can get a lot louder than the alpines, more durable aka keeping up with 150+DB sound systems easy.  The alpine is limited to 148ish db systems but considering your sub setup, you arent anywhere near the those levels lol.  One thing to consider is the massives have swivel mount tweeter pods included in the kit while the alpine is just the tweeters alone.  Power, i'd give the alpine 100-125 watts. the massive can handle 150-200 easy.  

https://www.amazon.com/Massive-Audio-CT2II-Tweeter-Crossovers/dp/B00NBC25UM

https://www.ebay.com/itm/pair-alpine-HIEND-28MM-dome-car-tweeter-4ohm-50W-vifa-XT25-PK-scanspeak-seas-/222186264721

the anarchy 7 is fine. the low FS makes it a midbass monster. I personally use crescendo PWX as midbass. with a lot of power to them and a good crossover, they can really pound your doors. You definitely would want to bridge a 4 channel to either the exodus or the crescendo and give them unlimited amounts of power for some really good results.  The 100 rms ratings are a joke, they take soo much more and sound better and better the more you throw at them. I threw 400 rms to them each once but i had to downsize amps due to space reasons and mines are getting 250 rms each atm.

https://www.diysoundgroup.com/speaker-parts/speaker-components/woofers/anarchy7-4ohm.html

http://store.crescendoaudio.com/pwx-8-midrange-speaker/

As for midrange If you have money left for it, I whole heartedly recommend these.  Loud as fk and sounds clean just not too good on the midbass section but you are doing 3 way lol. If you can, you can bridge an amp to these too and get them crazy screaming loud, they handle loads of power as well.

http://store.crescendoaudio.com/un-65-6-5-loudspeaker/

here's a video of my midbass lol


Hey guys, thanks again for the suggestions!  I checked them all out as best as I could.  Nice video by the way, I love the fur doors!! Do you think the PWX mid bass vs the Anarchy 7" is about the same?  I know the PWX take a little more mounting depth but not by a huge margin.  Other difference would be the cost of course, the PWX would only be $90 for a set where the Anarchys are $125.  I did decide I like the MA CT2IIs and the fact that they come with different mounting options is pretty nice.  That Crescendo 6.5" is fairly nice as well.  I tried to read as many reviews and forum posts as I could find on the different tweets and mids etc.  I did have a question though about the amps.  If I ran the CT2s, Crescendo 6.5", and either of the Anarchy or PWX, the Crescendos 6.5" is up to 300 watts rms.  Would I also want to run bridged to the them as well as the Anarchy or PWX?  If so, instead of running two diff amps bridged to those, would I not want to just find a more powerful 4 channel amp and just a separate 2 channel for the tweets?  I am also thinking I may not be able to find 1200 watts of 4 ohm rms power for the cost of two GM-8704s as well, so possibly just add in a third amp?  Three of them would put the cost at $480, be nice to find a big ass 6 channel amp at that cost lol.  Basically was just wondering if there would be a better amp set up if I needed to do that.

I checked out the ones that Beak suggested as well.  The Stevens look very well built and have some nice terminals on them, there was not a ton of reviews of the Faitals, well ones in English heh, that I could find.  I did read some personal experience posts from forums on them.

Sorry was typing this up as you guys posted some-  I am running a sub, its a Alpine type R 12" Dual VC 4ohm in a ported box at the moment.

I think I am sold on the CT2s and the Crescendo 6.5" I really could not find a bad thing about them anywhere I looked.  Just need to decide on the mid bass and amp set up.  Still looking around at DSPs, do they typically tend to perform any better if matched with the same type of amps?  Still need to do a lot of reading on those really.

Again, thanks a ton guys!  I really appreciate the input you all give me!!  - Side note - doing all this reading and audio stuff is a great distraction at the moment from dealing with my parents medical issues and all the things I need to do for them all the time - make a mental note to ask your parents if they have a plan in place to take care of themselves in sickness and old age!!!

 
You are correct, Jeff, of course. I guess I didn’t see where he wasn’t running a sub. OP, If you are running a sub, and it will not run up to 80 or so to meet the MB-8’s, then you should not use them. I believe Eric designed these to give all you want, down to about 70Hz, but if you aren’t running a sub and need to play down to like 40Hz with authority,  stick to earlier mentioned suggestions.
My pwx can play down to 28hz with high pass off and you can feel the car pressurized.   PWX 8s will smack those mb-8s in terms of dedicated midbass output performance. Mainly because cscstang swapped to them and what he gained in some clarity, he lost A LOT in midbass output. like a fkkkkkkk ton. He had the pwx 8s before and he literally didn't need a sub.

 
Hey guys, thanks again for the suggestions!  I checked them all out as best as I could.  Nice video by the way, I love the fur doors!! Do you think the PWX mid bass vs the Anarchy 7" is about the same?  I know the PWX take a little more mounting depth but not by a huge margin.  Other difference would be the cost of course, the PWX would only be $90 for a set where the Anarchys are $125.  I did decide I like the MA CT2IIs and the fact that they come with different mounting options is pretty nice.  That Crescendo 6.5" is fairly nice as well.  I tried to read as many reviews and forum posts as I could find on the different tweets and mids etc.  I did have a question though about the amps.  If I ran the CT2s, Crescendo 6.5", and either of the Anarchy or PWX, the Crescendos 6.5" is up to 300 watts rms.  Would I also want to run bridged to the them as well as the Anarchy or PWX?  If so, instead of running two diff amps bridged to those, would I not want to just find a more powerful 4 channel amp and just a separate 2 channel for the tweets?  I am also thinking I may not be able to find 1200 watts of 4 ohm rms power for the cost of two GM-8704s as well, so possibly just add in a third amp?  Three of them would put the cost at $480, be nice to find a big ass 6 channel amp at that cost lol.  Basically was just wondering if there would be a better amp set up if I needed to do that.

I checked out the ones that Beak suggested as well.  The Stevens look very well built and have some nice terminals on them, there was not a ton of reviews of the Faitals, well ones in English heh, that I could find.  I did read some personal experience posts from forums on them.

Sorry was typing this up as you guys posted some-  I am running a sub, its a Alpine type R 12" Dual VC 4ohm in a ported box at the moment.

I think I am sold on the CT2s and the Crescendo 6.5" I really could not find a bad thing about them anywhere I looked.  Just need to decide on the mid bass and amp set up.  Still looking around at DSPs, do they typically tend to perform any better if matched with the same type of amps?  Still need to do a lot of reading on those really.

Again, thanks a ton guys!  I really appreciate the input you all give me!!  - Side note - doing all this reading and audio stuff is a great distraction at the moment from dealing with my parents medical issues and all the things I need to do for them all the time - make a mental note to ask your parents if they have a plan in place to take care of themselves in sickness and old age!!!
its because powerful 2 channels costs more than a 4 channel like 200 dollars vs a 130 dollar pioneer gm 8704 which provides WAAAY more power bridged than that expensive 2 channel. I'd say just two of the gm 8704s is fine. The crescendo neo 6.5s are very sensitive meaning they get really loud regardless the power you put onto them. the other 2 channels can go to the tweeter.  Then a full 4 channel bridged to midbass.     The thing is most 6 channel amps are VERY low power, not enough for anything worthwhile especially for your midbass literally less than 100 rms per channel for most 6 channels and you are paying up the @ss usually 600 dollars or higher for a new weak ass 75 watts rms x 6 channel amp.

Amazon has it for 131. The pioneer actually does more power than rated like 120ish rms per channel not 100.

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D8704-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B07N8HPTMC

you dont need to match the same type of amps or anything. Power is power just get a lot for cheap with decent quality, THD and S/N ratios. The pioneer is actually not 

as for more power 4 channels you can see the costs skyrocket completely.  

https://gpcaraudio.com/deaf-bonce-apocalypse-aak200-4d/

http://store.crescendoaudio.com/c2000-4d/

http://store.crescendoaudio.com/symphony-s4-4-channel-amplifier/

https://gpcaraudio.com/deaf-bonce-apocalypse-aak180-4/

 
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