Rear deck & front spkrs VS front only

AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Hi everyone!  I am a new guy here in the forums and happened across the site while doing some research.  So after browsing around the forums, I have a question for everyone on rear and front speakers, vs front only.  I have a 05 Civic Lx sedan, currently with two sets of Polk DB5251s in it that are run off of a Alpine F450 4x70rms.  Sub is a Alpine Type R 1242D ported, run off of a Alpine M650 400rms @4ohms currently.  I see a lot of people forgo rear deck speakers entirely, leave stocks in, etc.  My back deck speakers seem to distort when the sub hits hard, so I was thinking of doing a few different things.  Now I love my bass in my music so I dont want to get rid of that.  I would like louder, clearer mid, high range though.

A. Move the rear deck components into a kick panel on the front doors, running both sets of components in the front doors at the same 4x70rms

B. Replacing the front with a higher quality 3 way 6 1/2 component system ( current polks are 5 1/4), removing both sets of polk, and running the new three ways bridged at 2x200 watts rms ( this is the option I am thinking of going with at the moment as I "believe" it would solve ALL my issues )

C. Seeing ( no luck so far ) if there is a way to somewhat enclose the rear deck speakers.  Seems its a hit or miss for a lot of people using the enclosure type "baffle" on the backs of their speakers.  I will probably try this first as its relatively cheap and I do not have to rewire anything.

D.  Possibly making some type of open port or opening in the rear deck, for what I assume is pressure etc, to let it come into the cabin instead of pushing on the speakers?

My end goal is I would like to hear more of the mid / mid bass and highs, distortion free ( I do not seem to get a lot of mid bass at the moment ).  Without the sub on, the speakers do not distort at all with volume at near max.  Only when the sub is playing, do the back set of deck speakers distort ( everything is deadend, isolated ).  I feel like the 5 1/4s are not really giving me the mid sound I want and feel maybe i will get more from the 6 1/2 of course.  My only other curiosity would be to try to push the current set of components with more wattage to see what they would do, but they are 10-100 watts rms.  Let me know your thoughts and what would be the correct way to address the issue, I still consider myself a novice so any insights or suggestions would be appreciated.  I spend a lot of time reading on the subject but I can always learn more!

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,261
252
South Coast Metro, CA
cheap route 1

buy foam baffles for your rear deck, you wont have that much midbass but the speaker will be protected. Put your rear speakers on head unit power and bridge your amp to your fronts. Total cost 20 bucks and easy AF.

Cheap route 2 remove the rear speakers so there's a hole in the rear deck leading into the cabin so you get more bass.   Put both component sets to your front door or one in the kick panel and one in your door total cost around 100 bucks for one of those Q logic Kick panel universal enclosures or FREE if you dont care and you are willing to gut your doors and mount it on your doors, make some wooden or abs panels for a few bucks more. If your head unit is a pioneer head unit with active network capabilities, ditch the passive crossover on those component sets and run active tweets on channel 1 and 2, mids on channel 3 and 4.

 

AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Jeffdachef said:
cheap route 1

buy foam baffles for your rear deck, you wont have that much midbass but the speaker will be protected. Put your rear speakers on head unit power and bridge your amp to your fronts. Total cost 20 bucks and easy AF.

Cheap route 2 remove the rear speakers so there's a hole in the rear deck leading into the cabin so you get more bass.   Put both component sets to your front door or one in the kick panel and one in your door total cost around 100 bucks for one of those Q logic Kick panel universal enclosures or FREE if you dont care and you are willing to gut your doors and mount it on your doors, make some wooden or abs panels for a few bucks more. If your head unit is a pioneer head unit with active network capabilities, ditch the passive crossover on those component sets and run active tweets on channel 1 and 2, mids on channel 3 and 4.
Thanks for the input, it is appreciated!  I am going to run it bridged to the fronts to see what they sound like with more power as suggested first.  If they sound amazing-may just put the others up front as well and grab another amp hehe.  The HU does have a high pass / low pass filter on it at [SIZE=14.1137px]50Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]63Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]80Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]100Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]125Hz[/SIZE] that is it though , I believe I would have to run another set of speaker wire from the trunk to the front doors as well.  In that scenario, I believe I would need to get a active crossover?  I wouldn't think the 125hz would be enough for the tweeters correct? If I end up not being happy with the increase wattage to the front, do most 3 way component sets deserve an active crossover ( currently do not have one )?  I really like the clarity in music, that is why I am leaning to the 3 way set.  Correct me if I am wrong if there is a set of 2 way I would be happy with.  I have only owned MB quart, Alpine, Polk, Rockford, and a few other random mid / tweet combos so I have not listened to the virtual ton of components available in the market nowadays.  I know some of you are more knowledgeable and are more familiar with the speakers that are available.  I will let you know how the increase to the front speakers turns out after the storms are out of the area lol.  Any input is appreciated! Thank you

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,261
252
South Coast Metro, CA
Thanks for the input, it is appreciated!  I am going to run it bridged to the fronts to see what they sound like with more power as suggested first.  If they sound amazing-may just put the others up front as well and grab another amp hehe.  The HU does have a high pass / low pass filter on it at [SIZE=14.1137px]50Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]63Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]80Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]100Hz[/SIZE][SIZE=14.113666666666665px]—[/SIZE][SIZE=14.1137px]125Hz[/SIZE] that is it though , I believe I would have to run another set of speaker wire from the trunk to the front doors as well.  In that scenario, I believe I would need to get a active crossover?  I wouldn't think the 125hz would be enough for the tweeters correct? If I end up not being happy with the increase wattage to the front, do most 3 way component sets deserve an active crossover ( currently do not have one )?  I really like the clarity in music, that is why I am leaning to the 3 way set.  Correct me if I am wrong if there is a set of 2 way I would be happy with.  I have only owned MB quart, Alpine, Polk, Rockford, and a few other random mid / tweet combos so I have not listened to the virtual ton of components available in the market nowadays.  I know some of you are more knowledgeable and are more familiar with the speakers that are available.  I will let you know how the increase to the front speakers turns out after the storms are out of the area lol.  Any input is appreciated! Thank you
it would solely depend on your head unit or sound processing.  your components already have the passive crossover included so all you need is just power to it. There's already a crossover point between midrange and tweeter on the passive crossover however you cant really change it or adjust the output levels of midrange this video should explain it pretty simple.    The crossover point is mainly just to block bass from the midrange and control its mechanical limits aka it can handle more power with higher crossover points but you trade off some midbass.  



 

nauc

CarAudio.com Veteran
Mar 22, 2005
3,010
22
Home
x2, id bridge the 4 channel amp, run the front speakers off it, and ditch the rear speakers.  rear dash holes will let the bass vent into the cabin.  thats how i always do mine.  i dont like rears

 
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Talontsi90

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 14, 2019
400
25
On 4/20/2019 at 2:54 AM, Jeffdachef said:

it would solely depend on your head unit or sound processing.  your components already have the passive crossover included so all you need is just power to it. There's already a crossover point between midrange and tweeter on the passive crossover however you cant really change it or adjust the output levels of midrange this video should explain it pretty simple.    The crossover point is mainly just to block bass from the midrange and control its mechanical limits aka it can handle more power with higher crossover points but you trade off some midbass.  

Wait, youre a chef.. do you work in the Fab Kitchen? lol

 
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AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
On 4/20/2019 at 2:54 AM, Jeffdachef said:

it would solely depend on your head unit or sound processing.  your components already have the passive crossover included so all you need is just power to it. There's already a crossover point between midrange and tweeter on the passive crossover however you cant really change it or adjust the output levels of midrange this video should explain it pretty simple.    The crossover point is mainly just to block bass from the midrange and control its mechanical limits aka it can handle more power with higher crossover points but you trade off some midbass.  

Hey Jeffdachef, thanks again.  Ya, I actually subscribe to Marks channel and have watched most of the videos there.  I understand most of the basics etc, just with running active I would have to run another set of speaker wire to the front.  Unfortunately, my dad fell and broke his hip, so I have been a little delayed, and may be further delayed for a little while on the car audio stuff.  He also has ATAXIA which is a very rare neurological disease, take a moment to check it out at National Ataxia Foundation, ( I always try to spread awareness when I can 😃  ) https://ataxia.org .  I did have some time today to do some investigating.  I wanted to make sure I had all my gains set properly and all the basic things redone to make sure none of that was a problem first.  While messing around with the eq settings, sub woofer off ( HU has a separate output for it ), I was going from component set to set, listening for distortion and redoing the EQ.  I noticed something odd to me.  When I was using the EQ I was able to increase/decrease the 40Hz signal and hear differences in the components.  Am I wrong? or should I not be hearing that?  The Polk set response is only suppose to be 53k and up.  I have the high pass selected on the Alpine MRP-F450, as well as the high pass set on the HU and I am using the crossovers that came with the component sets.  Am I missing something?  Or is some of the lower notes that should not be playing in the components getting through?  Ran out of time for the day so I will be trying the Bridge mode to just one set maybe tomorrow.  Oh and if you are the chef there, I definitely want an invite to the place hehe!!!  Thanks again!

 

Talontsi90

CarAudio.com VIP
Mar 14, 2019
400
25
Hey there Talontsi90!  Could you let me know your personal opinion about them?  Why dont you like rears anymore?  What made you take them out or no longer use them at all?  I love getting peoples opinions on things as it helps to understand things more.  Thanks!
As a musician, i like when music comes from in front of me. Ive had stage monitors that were behind me and it messed with my playing cause it made an odd echo effect with the rest of the stage playing in front of me. In a car, there is no real reason to have rear speakers, even in a 4 door.

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,261
252
South Coast Metro, CA
Hey Jeffdachef, thanks again.  Ya, I actually subscribe to Marks channel and have watched most of the videos there.  I understand most of the basics etc, just with running active I would have to run another set of speaker wire to the front.  Unfortunately, my dad fell and broke his hip, so I have been a little delayed, and may be further delayed for a little while on the car audio stuff.  He also has ATAXIA which is a very rare neurological disease, take a moment to check it out at National Ataxia Foundation, ( I always try to spread awareness when I can 😃  ) https://ataxia.org .  I did have some time today to do some investigating.  I wanted to make sure I had all my gains set properly and all the basic things redone to make sure none of that was a problem first.  While messing around with the eq settings, sub woofer off ( HU has a separate output for it ), I was going from component set to set, listening for distortion and redoing the EQ.  I noticed something odd to me.  When I was using the EQ I was able to increase/decrease the 40Hz signal and hear differences in the components.  Am I wrong? or should I not be hearing that?  The Polk set response is only suppose to be 53k and up.  I have the high pass selected on the Alpine MRP-F450, as well as the high pass set on the HU and I am using the crossovers that came with the component sets.  Am I missing something?  Or is some of the lower notes that should not be playing in the components getting through?  Ran out of time for the day so I will be trying the Bridge mode to just one set maybe tomorrow.  Oh and if you are the chef there, I definitely want an invite to the place hehe!!!  Thanks again!
the high pass is only a attenuation based on a slope and most amps or head units or crossovers are only -12 db slope which is not steep and will allow frequencies to play but rolled off, so if you crossed over at   50hz it'll still play into the 40hz range no problem. You'll need to raise the crossover point to around 63 to 80hz or raise the slope. 

 

AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
the high pass is only a attenuation based on a slope and most amps or head units or crossovers are only -12 db slope which is not steep and will allow frequencies to play but rolled off, so if you crossed over at   50hz it'll still play into the 40hz range no problem. You'll need to raise the crossover point to around 63 to 80hz or raise the slope. 
Hey guys, sorry been a little busy with my pops and his broken hip situation.  I was able to bridge my amp and run the front with 200 watts at 4ohms, it helped a little but in all honesty I was still not real happy with them.  I will admit a little more midbass came out and the real high points in voices etc got a lot better with less distortion, but of course they were getting almost three times the watts they normally get.  So I think I have decided to replace them with a larger mid 6.5".  I may need some help choosing what to go with as I am looking for good midbass and while I am at it, a warmer tweeter sound ( not tin sounding I guess you could say? less bright then the polks ).  I was looking at some of the Focal products and others that were recommended in other threads.  What do you think about these? https://www.amazon.com/Focal-Access-6-5-Inch-Component-Speaker/dp/B001P80920/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=azbuka09-20&linkId=3945937932ca982727092656be9a2eee.

I listen to a mix of heavy metal, classic rock, classical music, rap / hip hop, and yes....oldies music heh.  I was thinking as well that more cone area would give me what I am looking for as well.  The increase in wattage to the polks was ok, but in like one of Marks videos, I think more cone area would give me what I am looking for as well.  So I was thinking of getting two sets of 6.5 components, or a mix of a 3-way 6.5 set and adding another midbass in.  I have also seen online a lot of people putting 8s in their doors for midbass as well, would that be something that would easily fill my want for mid bass? Either a nice 3 way set 6.5 and an 8, or a nice two way set and an 8?  Thanks again for your help guys, any recommendations are appreciated!  Budget wise though I would like to stay in the 200-300$ range per set, I would spend more on a single 3 way set adding another midbass in though.  Let me know what you think, thank you!

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,261
252
South Coast Metro, CA
If you want tamer highs, stay away from focal its one of the most aggressive tweeter brands on the market. If go active with raw drivers with low FS like exodus anarchys and some alpine type X tweets on ebay. 

If you can fit and 8, do it. Output, midbass and everything is a lot better.  The exodus has 6.5s and 8s.   You can also do a 3 way active set but you need dsp for more channels of output.   Silverflute 6.5s work well for midrange.

 
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AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
If you want tamer highs, stay away from focal its one of the most aggressive tweeter brands on the market. If go active with raw drivers with low FS like exodus anarchys and some alpine type X tweets on ebay. 

If you can fit and 8, do it. Output, midbass and everything is a lot better.  The exodus has 6.5s and 8s.   You can also do a 3 way active set but you need dsp for more channels of output.   Silverflute 6.5s work well for midrange.
Hi Jeffdachef, hope all is well, thanks for the input again!  Real fast, IB in car audio is for infinite baffle right? ( researching the low FS speakers etc atm )  I tried looking for some of the Exodus mids and no luck at all on Ebay and it also seems their website is for sale lol ( if you have a link to some let me know, I could not find them, read that they are no longer in business ).  I think I can do an 8" as my brother said he will help out with building pods etc on doors with fiberglass.  So I would go 8" midbass and 6.5" three way set running active.  Now, I am still learning so I have a few questions if you dont mind?  With the lower FS rating, I am reading that depending on the Qts it will play its lower end better in certain applications.  For example, .24 Qts would play its lower end better in a smaller pod vs a .5 which would do better in IB in doors and somewhere in the middle of those you could do either.  Lower Qts speakers normally have larger magnets and are able to move the cone more.  Just wanting to confirm that sounds about right and I didnt get it all mixed up.  It is actually pretty amazing all the math that goes into car stereo systems.  I see some higher end or "well known" brands offer a lot of seperates ( morel, focal, etc )  someone had mentioned the silverflutes before on another thread and I had looked them up, FS 37 ( wow thats low lol ) Qts .24 nice! and man they are inexpensive.  What other suggestions would you or anyone else have for the 8" Mid bass and roughly 2" for the 3 way set up?  I am slowly learning about all these "hidden" brands so your suggestions and experience really help me out a lot.

The other issue I have been wondering about is with running everything active, with 4 components in each door, one sub, I would need to have a minimum five channel DSP correct?  As far as amps go, I could go with 2 four channel amps ( with 2 sets of inputs on each ) and my sub amp correct? maybe smaller one for high mids and tweets and a little bit beefier one for the mid and mid bass?  I want to do it the right way as well so let me know if I am off, thanks again!  It is appreciated

 

beak81champ

Senior VIP Member
Jun 20, 2016
277
31
Spfld, Illinois
You will find the Anarchys on diysoundgroup.com. There are a pair of 4 ohm on diyma for $125 shipped right now, and I’d offer $100 and see if you can get a deal. Super low Qts doesn’t do all that well in doors, look a bit higher (refer to Audiofrog GB’s, which are very highly regarded). The flutes are a decent deal, but I feel they are a little muddy. SB Acoustics are a great midbass, as well as Dayton. If you are looking at 8’s, look for JL ZR800’s used. They are also some of the best MB around, and they don’t make them anymore. There is a pair on FB (Mike Wirths) for $200, which is a steal, depending on condition. You could look for Dynaudio MW172’s as well, if you can find a pair, they will be about $300, but well worth it. I don’t understand why you would run 4 components in each door, if you buy the right components, you will only need one set, and you can upgrade your amps with the extra money. Your dsp will need to have one output channel for each individual driver, subs included, so if you run a 3-way front stage plus subs, you need an 8 channel dsp.

 

AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
You will find the Anarchys on diysoundgroup.com. There are a pair of 4 ohm on diyma for $125 shipped right now, and I’d offer $100 and see if you can get a deal. Super low Qts doesn’t do all that well in doors, look a bit higher (refer to Audiofrog GB’s, which are very highly regarded). The flutes are a decent deal, but I feel they are a little muddy. SB Acoustics are a great midbass, as well as Dayton. If you are looking at 8’s, look for JL ZR800’s used. They are also some of the best MB around, and they don’t make them anymore. There is a pair on FB (Mike Wirths) for $200, which is a steal, depending on condition. You could look for Dynaudio MW172’s as well, if you can find a pair, they will be about $300, but well worth it. I don’t understand why you would run 4 components in each door, if you buy the right components, you will only need one set, and you can upgrade your amps with the extra money. Your dsp will need to have one output channel for each individual driver, subs included, so if you run a 3-way front stage plus subs, you need an 8 channel dsp.
Hi Beak!  thank you for your input and your suggestions on the speakers, it is appreciated.  As far as putting 4 in the door, you may be right on the 3 and done, but as I am still learning and reading as much as I can with the time I have, I am not sure what the "right" set of speakers for me is at the moment.  I went from knowing about the mainstream brands to HOLYSHIT HOW MANY MORE SPEAKER COMPANIES CAN THERE BE!!! lol.  I like a lot of midbass, I like detailed highs but not tin sounding or so bright, ( i know this can be subjective to the individual ) so my thinking was adding another 6.5' or an 8 would maybe give me the mid bass sound I was looking for, .  Im in Virginia, in an area that used to be loaded with audio stores and they even had huge competitions at the big parks here with all the big names etc all the time, to now like two shops that do it  ( mainly just install stuff ) and they dont carry much non mainstream stuff.  So I do not get a chance to listen to a lot of non Alpine, kenwood etc.  So I am somewhat relying on reviews of the speakers and peoples personal input to guide my decisions and I am soaking up as much info as I can along the way.  Now I do understand your point of the 3 or 4 speakers thing, me adding an 8 would almost be like saying my 6.5 sucks so bad I had to add an 8 to get what I wanted instead of putting the correct 6.5 in.  I do understand what you mean and appreciate your input, when I have a little more time this evening I will check out the speakers you mentioned ( I think I actually saw those JL on FB last night lol ).  Thanks again, and anyone that has input or suggestions feel free to chime in.  It really does help me out a lot!

 

beak81champ

Senior VIP Member
Jun 20, 2016
277
31
Spfld, Illinois
Hi Beak!  thank you for your input and your suggestions on the speakers, it is appreciated.  As far as putting 4 in the door, you may be right on the 3 and done, but as I am still learning and reading as much as I can with the time I have, I am not sure what the "right" set of speakers for me is at the moment.  I went from knowing about the mainstream brands to HOLYSHIT HOW MANY MORE SPEAKER COMPANIES CAN THERE BE!!! lol.  I like a lot of midbass, I like detailed highs but not tin sounding or so bright, ( i know this can be subjective to the individual ) so my thinking was adding another 6.5' or an 8 would maybe give me the mid bass sound I was looking for, .  Im in Virginia, in an area that used to be loaded with audio stores and they even had huge competitions at the big parks here with all the big names etc all the time, to now like two shops that do it  ( mainly just install stuff ) and they dont carry much non mainstream stuff.  So I do not get a chance to listen to a lot of non Alpine, kenwood etc.  So I am somewhat relying on reviews of the speakers and peoples personal input to guide my decisions and I am soaking up as much info as I can along the way.  Now I do understand your point of the 3 or 4 speakers thing, me adding an 8 would almost be like saying my 6.5 sucks so bad I had to add an 8 to get what I wanted instead of putting the correct 6.5 in.  I do understand what you mean and appreciate your input, when I have a little more time this evening I will check out the speakers you mentioned ( I think I actually saw those JL on FB last night lol ).  Thanks again, and anyone that has input or suggestions feel free to chime in.  It really does help me out a lot!
If you go to an 8, you are not saying your 6.5 sucks. If we could all fit an 8 in our doors or kick panels, we would all be running them! The Anarchy would still be my top choice for pure midbass, but only if you are running 3-way. You don’t want it playing above 1k, but it will move sheet metal with enough clean power, and it’s a monster value. When you choose your mids and tweets, try to keep the sensitivity somewhat close to the the sensitivity of your midbass, otherwise you will be cutting a lot of top end to make it not overpower your midbass. Listen to the recommendations of these guys. A lot of them like loud and clean, as do I (just not as loud as some of them anymore). They have seen and heard a myriad of equipment, and seen the trials and failures of lots of equipment. Remember though, ultimately it is your system, and you have to live with your choices, so choose what you want. While you are deciding on equipment, I would be loading up and installing sound deadener, and preparing your ride to sound tight and right. That will be a whole ‘nother monster to tackle, and will help prepare you for a quick, clean, safe install. I would also be grabbing the necessities, like power wire, speaker wire, rca’s, distribution blocks, fuse blocks, fuses, etc. All the little stuff it takes, because it will surprise you how much that costs. Good luck, we are here if you you need us!

 
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AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
If you go to an 8, you are not saying your 6.5 sucks. If we could all fit an 8 in our doors or kick panels, we would all be running them! The Anarchy would still be my top choice for pure midbass, but only if you are running 3-way. You don’t want it playing above 1k, but it will move sheet metal with enough clean power, and it’s a monster value. When you choose your mids and tweets, try to keep the sensitivity somewhat close to the the sensitivity of your midbass, otherwise you will be cutting a lot of top end to make it not overpower your midbass. Listen to the recommendations of these guys. A lot of them like loud and clean, as do I (just not as loud as some of them anymore). They have seen and heard a myriad of equipment, and seen the trials and failures of lots of equipment. Remember though, ultimately it is your system, and you have to live with your choices, so choose what you want. While you are deciding on equipment, I would be loading up and installing sound deadener, and preparing your ride to sound tight and right. That will be a whole ‘nother monster to tackle, and will help prepare you for a quick, clean, safe install. I would also be grabbing the necessities, like power wire, speaker wire, rca’s, distribution blocks, fuse blocks, fuses, etc. All the little stuff it takes, because it will surprise you how much that costs. Good luck, we are here if you you need us!
Hey, I posted a ton of stuff but evidently it did not actually post lol.  The anarchy mid, is it the 704?  This one? https://www.diysoundgroup.com/anarchy7-4ohm.html

I have already done deadening in trunk and trunk hatch, doors, and floor.  I need to still do the rear deck and the headliner and maybe one more layer in the trunk.  Was waiting till I got the materials for my headliner, as it is sagging some, to do that and the other at the same time.  I am going to upgrade the alternator as well, but waiting to see how many amps I will really need before grabbing one as they can get pricey.

I checked out some of the Audiofrog stuff, it may be out of my price range, but I may have been looking at the wrong stuff.  It was the GB series and just the mid was like 300 bucks.  I did find some of the Dynaudios but the prices on them are over 300 by a good bit now.  Again though, I may not be looking in the right places for some of these things.  I did find a pair of the JLs but they were already sold.  I will look again a little later this evening and see what else I can find.  Thanks again for the input, I do appreciate it!  Any other comments or suggestions are welcome!!

 

Jeremy11

Junior Member
Apr 13, 2018
87
2
Loganville,GA
Jeffdachef said:
cheap route 1

buy foam baffles for your rear deck, you wont have that much midbass but the speaker will be protected. Put your rear speakers on head unit power and bridge your amp to your fronts. Total cost 20 bucks and easy AF.

Cheap route 2 remove the rear speakers so there's a hole in the rear deck leading into the cabin so you get more bass.   Put both component sets to your front door or one in the kick panel and one in your door total cost around 100 bucks for one of those Q logic Kick panel universal enclosures or FREE if you dont care and you are willing to gut your doors and mount it on your doors, make some wooden or abs panels for a few bucks more. If your head unit is a pioneer head unit with active network capabilities, ditch the passive crossover on those component sets and run active tweets on channel 1 and 2, mids on channel 3 and 4.
Quick hijack questions. If you run rears off of deck power while running active on a pioneer network,  are they crossed over or are the bass frequencies cut in some way.also is there a way to make any adjustments to the sound of the rears.

 

AndyGiff

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Apr 19, 2019
30
0
Fredericksburg, Virginia
One other thing, I was wondering what line of amps to look at.  I was looking at some of the PPI amps and they seem to do well on the dyno.  I also see people using class D full range for fronts as well now.  Is that the way to go now a days?