rattling in sub

[BonusBobo 10+ year member]

Originally posted by 67camaross ok i'll try moving it cause i did use a power drill so they are probaby stripped.

did you use a power drill for both? If so, wouldn't they both be stripped?

I'm a little weary of this "stripping" idea. I can't see it happening that plausibly.

 

[67camaross 10+ year member]

ya i use it for both but i could have drilled to far on one sub and not he other right. if you don't hink it is "stripping" wha do u think could be wrong? thanks

 

[abcdefg 10+ year member]

Originally posted by BonusBobo Strip the wood? I've never encountered such a thing... And I have used power drills.

i didnt exactly know what term it was called but, its like when u screw the screw in the wood but it keeps spinning it dont tighten up the screw keeps spinning

 

[vettelovr1124 10+ year member]

right now, i don't think anyone knows what is really wrong with it, there could be a number of things that could possibly be an explanation. really, the only real way to find out how to fix it is the "guess and check" technique where u do something and if it does not work move to some other idea. might as well.

 

[BonusBobo 10+ year member]

Originally posted by abcdefg i didnt exactly know what term it was called but, its like when u screw the screw in the wood but it keeps spinning it dont tighten up the screw keeps spinning

Yeah, I know what you're talking about, but that's not caused by using a power drill. That's caused by making the pilot holes too wide with your power drill. Go ahead and use a power drill, and I personally recommend it. It will not strip anything if you use the right bit size.

 

[Savant 10+ year member]

Originally posted by BonusBobo Yeah, I know what you're talking about, but that's not caused by using a power drill. That's caused by making the pilot holes too wide with your power drill. Go ahead and use a power drill, and I personally recommend it. It will not strip anything if you use the right bit size.

Sorry, NOT true.. I have one stripped hole in one of my 10"s box.. you CAN strip a hole in MDF pretty easily, pilot hole or not.. The key is either being gentle with a variable speed drill, or having a clutch on the drill (I had my clutch as tight as it would go, that was my problem)..

Hell, you can strip a screw in MDF with NO pilot hole and just a screw-driver.. just depends..

And to answer the 'loose trim' question, on my Pioneers, there is a plastic rim on top of the mounting plate.. it's secured to that plate some how, but if the "glue" that held it down broke or something, that part of the trim would be able to move and vibrate.. Some speakers don't have "trim", they have gaskets so you can mount the sub from inside a box or inverted ( I have a 10" inverted at the moment, the gasket I'm using is pressing on the trim for seal)..

 

[67camaross 10+ year member]

what does inverted mean? Do you just have the sub facing into the box? Why would you do that does it produce better sound. Also when you mont the subs do you use the same scres you used to make the box or do you get srter ones that don't go all the way through.

Also mine does not have trim it has a ruber gasket that just slips over edge around the sub.

 

[BonusBobo 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Savant Sorry, NOT true.. I have one stripped hole in one of my 10"s box.. you CAN strip a hole in MDF pretty easily, pilot hole or not.. The key is either being gentle with a variable speed drill, or having a clutch on the drill (I had my clutch as tight as it would go, that was my problem)..

 

Hell, you can strip a screw in MDF with NO pilot hole and just a screw-driver.. just depends..

 

And to answer the 'loose trim' question, on my Pioneers, there is a plastic rim on top of the mounting plate.. it's secured to that plate some how, but if the "glue" that held it down broke or something, that part of the trim would be able to move and vibrate.. Some speakers don't have "trim", they have gaskets so you can mount the sub from inside a box or inverted ( I have a 10" inverted at the moment, the gasket I'm using is pressing on the trim for seal)..

Ok, well, I can't speak for every drill on every far corner of the earth, but i know that the old, weak power drill I have used in the past has done great when I make the pilot holes nice and small. And yes, I have drilled them with full throttle. It made perfect, narrow pilot holes.

The conclusion comes down to this: If he really did strip the holes, wouldn't it be on both sides and not just one?

 

[Savant 10+ year member]

Originally posted by 67camaross what does inverted mean? Do you just have the sub facing into the box? Why would you do that does it produce better sound. Also when you mont the subs do you use the same scres you used to make the box or do you get srter ones that don't go all the way through.

 

Also mine does not have trim it has a ruber gasket that just slips over edge around the sub.

Normally inverted (yes, pointing into the box) is for looks, or if you think your box might be a bit too small and want the volume back from the woofer (it has a volume it displaces in the box, but not usually much).. I've heard that it can help with SQ but at the cost of SPL (cleaner sound, lower volume), but I don't know first hand.. As for MY sub being inverted, I have a groove/channel (3 actaully) on the cone that goes under the dust cap.. and I dropped something in there and it's buzzing! so I'm trying to bump it out.. not working all that well //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

The ruber gasket on top is pretty common.. that would be what I meant with trim.. if it's loose it could make noise, but not as likely with the rubber as with mine (hard plastic trim)..

EDIT: I used the screws that came with my subs.. Not sure they are long enough to make it through the 3/4" mdf.. If you have to use other screws, try to get 'bigger' screws in diameter, and only long enough to fit the tickness of the wood.. Nuts/bolts will work too, and are a LOT harder to strip (but you still can so be careful).. They have some 'setting nut' thingys.. you drill a full size hole (like for any bolt) and this thing goes inside and sets into the hole.. has spikes on it to keep it from spinning, that way you don't have to find a way to hold both sides while you tighten up.. just make sure they are set all the way before you tighten up or you might have loose bolts later and have to re-tighten.. (shouldn't hurt anything, just a pain)..

 

[Savant 10+ year member]

Originally posted by BonusBobo Ok, well, I can't speak for every drill on every far corner of the earth, but i know that the old, weak power drill I have used in the past has done great when I make the pilot holes nice and small. And yes, I have drilled them with full throttle. It made perfect, narrow pilot holes.

 

The conclusion comes down to this: If he really did strip the holes, wouldn't it be on both sides and not just one?

Yeah, it's all about tork on the tightening (and the pilot hole size.. too big means easier stripping, but too small means breaking the wood in some cases).. The older drill might not have the tork to strip..

Not sure what you mean by "both sides".. each hole is it's own thing, but the hole is ONE thing (top to bottom..).. you can strip any one hole and it won't affect any other hole.. Now, if he stripped 2 screws next to eachother on the perimeter, that spot might flex and vibrate at certian freqs.. only one stripped isn't normally a big issue (not seeing an issue for me on the one stripped hole on my 10..)..

You can tell if they are stripped pretty easily.. put a screwdriver on the screw and try to tighten it.. don't give it too much twist or you 'could' strip a good one, but if the one you are on twists pretty easily and keeps spinning as you turn, it's stripped.. if you have more than 1, you might want to spin the sub and try to re-drill all the holes and secure it again, but be more gentle on the screws //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[BonusBobo 10+ year member]

Originally posted by Savant Yeah, it's all about tork on the tightening (and the pilot hole size.. too big means easier stripping, but too small means breaking the wood in some cases).. The older drill might not have the tork to strip..

 

Not sure what you mean by "both sides".. each hole is it's own thing, but the hole is ONE thing (top to bottom..).. you can strip any one hole and it won't affect any other hole.. Now, if he stripped 2 screws next to eachother on the perimeter, that spot might flex and vibrate at certian freqs.. only one stripped isn't normally a big issue (not seeing an issue for me on the one stripped hole on my 10..)..

 

You can tell if they are stripped pretty easily.. put a screwdriver on the screw and try to tighten it.. don't give it too much twist or you 'could' strip a good one, but if the one you are on twists pretty easily and keeps spinning as you turn, it's stripped.. if you have more than 1, you might want to spin the sub and try to re-drill all the holes and secure it again, but be more gentle on the screws //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

What I meant was the he used the same exact drill for each subwoofer, but only one rattles. I think he also said he used the same pressure in drilling each hole.

The older drill has plenty of torque. It literally plugs into the wall and has more torque than most, if not all, of the black and decker portable ones that I have seen.

 

[Savant 10+ year member]

Originally posted by BonusBobo What I meant was the he used the same exact drill for each subwoofer, but only one rattles. I think he also said he used the same pressure in drilling each hole.

 

The older drill has plenty of torque. It literally plugs into the wall and has more torque than most, if not all, of the black and decker portable ones that I have seen.

Ahh.. each side.. makes sense now, sorry //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif But, do you mean same pressure while drilling in the screws? cause the pressure used for drilling a hole won't affect the hole.. might break the bit, but the hole is just as big as the bit (unless the pressure causes one to wobble the drill, but that's not really the same as 'pressure'..)..

And, "most" portables are 12 volt or so.. some are 9 volt.. then you have 14 volt and 18 volt... my cordless happens to be 18 volt.. I've twisted off screw heads with it already.. Plugin drills don't neccisarily mean it has good tork, that's a matter of the brushes/magnets inside.. and the circuitry.. but I understand what you are saying.. I had an old plugin that I could hold the chuck still with my hand and press the trigger all the way and still hold it *shrug* just depends..

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

If it's stripped, there's an easy cure...

place wooden toothpicks inside the hole, to make it tighter...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

as for the virbrations, I had a similar problem, and I fixed it with weather stripping ON my subs, and it's now tight as hell...

 

[bass_mekanik 10+ year member]

use t nuts i do and they gey so tight the sub leaves and indentation on the mdf

 

[paikiah 5,000+ posts]

Originally posted by bass_mekanik use t nuts i do and they gey so tight the sub leaves and indentation on the mdf

hey, you were the one from tazzie...

I asked befroe if you know a chick with the last name Gromer.. she says there's only 2 or 3 in the whole of Tazzie....