Random Questions about Future Install

[_i0n_ 10+ year member]

Just have a few random questions that have come about along my path as a new car audio installer:

The Big 3, only necessary after the install of a high output alternator? When is it necessary to run a high output alternator?

Really random: Grounding: the HU, the Amps and grounding blocks are all that need to be grounded? And further, should they all be on the same ground? I read about loop issues recently.

Fuse sizing, would anyone mind giving me a run down on fuse sizing? I want proper protection.

Recommended website for Sub kit? I will build the box out of MDF..but I am looking for a reputable site that carries the sub carpeting, terminals and other plastic pieces...

Lastly(for now) deadening/dampening, can anyone suggest a cheap(er) source? I am looking to go heavy on my front doors and possibly hatch(pending prices) and then obviously any rattles thereafter..but I'd like some good options.

Thanks to anyone tackling any of my Concerns, it's truly appreciated.

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[Full Tilt 10+ year member]

Just have a few random questions that have come about along my path as a new car audio installer:
The Big 3, only necessary after the install of a high output alternator? When is it necessary to run a high output alternator?

- The Big 3 could be applicable in any situation if you wanted it to be. I'm only gonna be running 1000w on my car and I've already got the B3 under my hood. It just helps the juices get through the car better.

Fuse sizing, would anyone mind giving me a run down on fuse sizing? I want proper protection.

- //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif Good man.

Recommended website for Sub kit? I will build the box out of MDF..but I am looking for a reputable site that carries the sub carpeting, terminals and other plastic pieces...

- Sonicelectronix.com is a huge one, but they don't always get you the lowest prices. Do a lot of shopping at a lot of sites.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

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The big 3 can help, do nothing, or hurt, It almost always helps though, just do it right away and if your dimming gets worse means your alt is to small.

Technically it's best to have all grounds at same point, however you do not need to ground your head unit to the same spot as your amps, I would ground your amps to your front batt if you can afford the extra wire.

Fusing is 100% dependent on the size of wire you use.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Just have a few random questions that have come about along my path as a new car audio installer:
The Big 3, only necessary after the install of a high output alternator? When is it necessary to run a high output alternator?

Really random: Grounding: the HU, the Amps and grounding blocks are all that need to be grounded? And further, should they all be on the same ground? I read about loop issues recently.

Fuse sizing, would anyone mind giving me a run down on fuse sizing? I want proper protection.

Recommended website for Sub kit? I will build the box out of MDF..but I am looking for a reputable site that carries the sub carpeting, terminals and other plastic pieces...

Lastly(for now) deadening/dampening, can anyone suggest a cheap(er) source? I am looking to go heavy on my front doors and possibly hatch(pending prices) and then obviously any rattles thereafter..but I'd like some good options.

Thanks to anyone tackling any of my Concerns, it's truly appreciated.

There is alot of information within the Sticky Threads,that will answer alot of your questions by reading them.Alot of the questions asked truely depend on the type of vehicle being installed within, along with amperage draw ect.Check out some of the Stickys and read up,may be quite helpful first.

 

[_i0n_ 10+ year member]

Thank you for the replies.

This brings up a moronic question to ask this late in the game(haha) how do you properly "split" a power wire? I am think there must be a "Y" adapter out there..I plan on using 2 amps and a distribution block, so I am thinking I'll only need 2 "Y's" - for the Amp's ground to be brought back to the battery ground.

Thank you both for the links/suggestions.

I'll hold off on the "Big 3" for now, if I experience dimming down the road, I'll know where I need to go.

And as far as fusing, I am having a bit of difficulty sizing the wire, so I'll post up my Amps:

WoofersEtc.com - DPX2250 - Clarion 2/1-Channel 400 Watt RMS Power Amplifier

WoofersEtc.com - ZRS-7000D - Cadence 2600 Watt 1 Ch Competition Amplifier

Thanks Again

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for the replies.
This brings up a moronic question to ask this late in the game(haha) how do you properly "split" a power wire? I am think there must be a "Y" adapter out there..I plan on using 2 amps and a distribution block, so I am thinking I'll only need 2 "Y's" - for the Amp's ground to be brought back to the battery ground.

Thank you both for the links/suggestions.

I'll hold off on the "Big 3" for now, if I experience dimming down the road, I'll know where I need to go.

And as far as fusing, I am having a bit of difficulty sizing the wire, so I'll post up my Amps:

WoofersEtc.com - DPX2250 - Clarion 2/1-Channel 400 Watt RMS Power Amplifier

WoofersEtc.com - ZRS-7000D - Cadence 2600 Watt 1 Ch Competition Amplifier

Thanks Again

I use a Dist block for my remote wire,a dist block for ground, and an AGU 4way dist block for power,.You dont want to split the same wire for seperate amps,Each source should have its own power, and ground,and remote.Run your 2/4/0ga supply wire to a fused Dist block for your power source needs per amplifier/components.

 

[_i0n_ 10+ year member]

I use a Dist block for my remote wire,a dist block for ground, and an AGU 4way dist block for power,.You dont want to split the same wire for seperate amps,Each source should have its own power, and ground,and remote.Run your 2/4/0ga supply wire to a fused Dist block for your power source needs per amplifier/components.

Ah, thank you audio. So with two amps, if I were to follow your logic, I would need a separate Distribution Block for both my Power and Ground. I am curious though, why do need one for the remote wire? Would the Amp have all the necessary "ouputs" or is the Dist block for additional drivers coming off it?

I plan on running just the fronts off the 'front amp' so I would not need a dist block, correct?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for the replies.
This brings up a moronic question to ask this late in the game(haha) how do you properly "split" a power wire? I am think there must be a "Y" adapter out there..I plan on using 2 amps and a distribution block, so I am thinking I'll only need 2 "Y's" - for the Amp's ground to be brought back to the battery ground.

Thank you both for the links/suggestions.

I'll hold off on the "Big 3" for now, if I experience dimming down the road, I'll know where I need to go.

And as far as fusing, I am having a bit of difficulty sizing the wire, so I'll post up my Amps:

WoofersEtc.com - DPX2250 - Clarion 2/1-Channel 400 Watt RMS Power Amplifier

WoofersEtc.com - ZRS-7000D - Cadence 2600 Watt 1 Ch Competition Amplifier

Thanks Again

With these Power Hunger amplifiers, you are going to need a min of 2ga power supply, and at least around 150-200 anl power fuse,and more than likely,with that astock alt..the big three. Possibly another batt,and possibly HO alt, if you want to achieve any kind of power without struggling/Starving.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ah, thank you audio. So with two amps, if I were to follow your logic, I would need a separate Distribution Block for both my Power and Ground. I am curious though, why do need one for the remote wire? Would the Amp have all the necessary "ouputs" or is the Dist block for additional drivers coming off it?
I plan on running just the fronts off the 'front amp' so I would not need a dist block, correct?

Just for two amps, I still recommend at the min,a 2way Fused dist block for your power supply,as for your grounding,its not necessary,neither for your remote.Im running 3amps at the moment,and soon 4,along with 2 cooling fans, so Im using the dist block for my remoteto clean things up,along with the ground dist block and have my sources @ one location, to remove/add when needed, and will look nicely done for my install.I recommend a min of 4ga ground wiring,and ?ga for the amps as required,along with the proper fuse rated for

 

[_i0n_ 10+ year member]

Just for two amps, I still recommend at the min,a 2way Fused dist block for your power supply,as for your grounding,its not necessary,neither for your remote.Im running 3amps at the moment,and soon 4,along with 2 cooling fans, so Im using the dist block for my remoteto clean things up,along with the ground dist block and have my sources @ one location, to remove/add when needed, and will look nicely done for my install.I recommend a min of 4ga ground wiring,and ?ga for the amps as required,along with the proper fuse rated for

Awesome, thank you.

I just found: Lucite Encapsulated Large 4 Gauge Terminals - listed on that larger amp that I intend on purchasing. That means the largest wire I will be able to run to this amp is 4 gauge. Would it benefit me at all running 0 gauge from the battery to the fused dist block and then running the proper size there after, or is that not necessary?

Thanks again

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Im using a 200amp alt,with 2 red tops,and have done the BIG 5 rather than the Big 3 with 0ga,and ran 2ga for my power supply w 150 ANL fuse,adding a 600 Kinetick batt in the rear,and to a 4way AGU dist block,and using,all Old school amplifiers that require 10-8ga supply wiring for each amp, and no more than a single 60 amp fuse per sub amp(2)@2ohms Mono,and front with 35amp fuse @2ohms stereo, and rear fill 25 amp fuse@4ohms stereo

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Awesome, thank you.
I just found: Lucite Encapsulated Large 4 Gauge Terminals - listed on that larger amp that I intend on purchasing. That means the largest wire I will be able to run to this amp is 4 gauge. Would it benefit me at all running 0 gauge from the battery to the fused dist block and then running the proper size there after, or is that not necessary?

Thanks again

That sub amplifier is a power hunger amplifier..Id recommend 0ga run supply,You might get by with 2ga..It would be pretty close.I say that due to not using an ho alt,as you will not retrieve the real rms output of that amplifier@14.4v that it is rated @,With the A/c on ,lights on,vehicle on,radio on..you may be @12.9-13.4v.??12.9 being the lowest when the deep bass note hits as I have experienced in the past.I know 0ga wire is expensive, but you can be certain that you will have all the supply you need for the bass amp ran from the front to the rear of the vehicle, and do it once,rather than finding out later that your supply wasnt big enough, and having to rip it back out and refeed the supply/hassle.Ive gotten by with 4ga, with a 1600rms amp@1ohms, and 4x125@4ohms with approx 12 ft,with a 150 anl inline fuse,and two red tops,and a 255 amp alt..No big 3/5,and I was at the lowest @14.2v,and steady @14.4

 

[_i0n_ 10+ year member]

That sub amplifier is a power hunger amplifier..Id recommend 0ga run supply,You might get by with 2ga..It would be pretty close.I say that due to not using an ho alt,as you will not retrieve the real rms output of that amplifier@14.4v that it is rated @,With the A/c on ,lights on,vehicle on,radio on..you may be @12.9-13.4v.??12.9 being the lowest when the deep bass note hits as I have experienced in the past.I know 0ga wire is expensive, but you can be certain that you will have all the supply you need for the bass amp ran from the front to the rear of the vehicle, and do it once,rather than finding out later that your supply wasnt big enough, and having to rip it back out and refeed the supply/hassle.Ive gotten by with 4ga, with a 1600rms amp@1ohms, and 4x125@4ohms with approx 12 ft,with a 150 anl inline fuse,and two red tops,and a 255 amp alt..No big 3/5,and I was at the lowest @14.2v,and steady @14.4

I'm with you, I don't mind spending a little more to do it right the first time. 0 gauge is fine with me. My one question is, where I posted above where the Amp specs, specified 4 gauge connections..how do I connect a 0 gauge to such a terminal?

Thanks

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I hope this may have helped your questioning some.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Do read up more for your supply needs for the power you are trying to achieve,.Note..you can always remove the power wire later if you decide to sale the vehicle,and use for your next install as well.Just be sure to take it easy pulling back out and check for any exposure..Heat shrink is your friend in that type of situation

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I'm with you, I don't mind spending a little more to do it right the first time. 0 gauge is fine with me. My one question is, where I posted above where the Amp specs, specified 4 gauge connections..how do I connect a 0 gauge to such a terminal?
Thanks

Thats where your dist block comes to play.You get a (1)0-ga to a (2)4ga fused dist block.0ga supply from the fused under hood 0ga ANL fuse holder(waterproof)150amp will be fine,to the dist fused block.I prefer the AGU dist block,as the fuses are a bit less expensive that Maxi fuses,and easier to get IMO.